I'm guessing that this means I have an 11 kg Bruce ... am I right in this? I'm also thinking that this might be too small for my Hunter 34. Anyone out there have any thoughts on this? Gary
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Rich Stidger
Correct, 11 kg or about 25#
I had the same anchor as a second on my 10,500# Morgan 30. My primary anchor was a 35# CQR. I did ride out Hurrican Bob in 1991 and with both anchors out, I ended up hanging on the Bruce for 3-4 hours with the winds estimated to be 50-70mph. Never moved. Rich
I had the same anchor as a second on my 10,500# Morgan 30. My primary anchor was a 35# CQR. I did ride out Hurrican Bob in 1991 and with both anchors out, I ended up hanging on the Bruce for 3-4 hours with the winds estimated to be 50-70mph. Never moved. Rich
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Bob Gravenstine
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Michael
Bruce markings.
Gary; I have seen different markings on the Bruce anchors. Take the thing home and weigh it. If it is 11 kg then it is OK for your boat. I have a 33 lb. Bruce on my C36, and it works great. I'm not sure what it is marked, so I will check and let you know. The conversion is 1kg=2.2lbs. The current West Marine catalog lists a BR11 as 11lbs (5kg), and they do not list a 11kg model, only a 10kg which is 22 lbs. I would weigh it. Mike
Gary; I have seen different markings on the Bruce anchors. Take the thing home and weigh it. If it is 11 kg then it is OK for your boat. I have a 33 lb. Bruce on my C36, and it works great. I'm not sure what it is marked, so I will check and let you know. The conversion is 1kg=2.2lbs. The current West Marine catalog lists a BR11 as 11lbs (5kg), and they do not list a 11kg model, only a 10kg which is 22 lbs. I would weigh it. Mike
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Stanley J. Rogacevicz
kg. or lb. ?
Since when did Bruce start marking in kg ? I have a Bruce 33 lb on my c320. The 44 lb is the size up and I also have heard much talk about the Bruce 22 lb. It would make sense that the next size down would be the 11 lb. Are you sure it's not 11 lb ? Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
Since when did Bruce start marking in kg ? I have a Bruce 33 lb on my c320. The 44 lb is the size up and I also have heard much talk about the Bruce 22 lb. It would make sense that the next size down would be the 11 lb. Are you sure it's not 11 lb ? Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656
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Trevor
Mystery
I replaced a Bruce marked 33lb. on my C36 with a Bruce marked 20kg, which is 44lbs. (both are original Bruce anchors) I don't know why some Bruce anchors are marked in kg. and some in lbs.
I replaced a Bruce marked 33lb. on my C36 with a Bruce marked 20kg, which is 44lbs. (both are original Bruce anchors) I don't know why some Bruce anchors are marked in kg. and some in lbs.
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Don Alexander
Contemplate Your Anchor
Hi All, Here is a little article which I wrote for our Legend Owners Association newsletter some time back. The point is that, as far as anchors are concerned, it is the SIZE of the lump of bottom they grab which matters more than just the weight of the metalwork. If in doubt prowl round a marina and check on what everyone else is using. CONTEMPLATE YOUR ANCHOR This is an attempt to understand the magnitude of the forces involved in anchoring One day, when half a gale is blowing your boat onto the pontoon, stand amidships and try to push her off. Can't do it! In a full gale the force holding her on could be at least four times as great. Now take a long hard look at your anchor. Would you bury it in your flowerbed at home and expect it to hold when pulled by your car. No chance! Farmers use CQR anchors, four at a time, to plough fields - so they must drag. Nevertheless anchors are truly wonderful things. They hold yachts in extreme conditions when buried in sea bottoms of, sand, shingle etc, which must be lighter than the soil in your garden. From time to time yachting magazines publish excellent articles about anchoring techniques. Normally they agree on plenty of weight and plenty of scope but that is about all. Opinions then vary about what is best and this can be confusing. What these articles do not say, and about which there is no disagreement, is what is bad for an anchor's holding. 1) There must be no jerking. 2) There must be no sawing from side to side. 3) There must be no radical change of direction of pull. The latter normally only occurs when the tide changes and the winds are light, but, nonetheless it seems to cause most anchoring problems. Radical change of direction of pull can also occur if the eye of a hurricane passes overhead, Lord help you as you should not have been there in the first place. There is no mystery to anchoring and any means to achieve the above three conditions will suffice. If you can satisfy the rules then you should be reasonably secure. Clearly no anchors will hold properly in unsuitable bottoms such as weed, kelp, soft mud etc, but such places are shown on charts so don't try there. So what should you do? Read the published articles and just follow the rules, lay out your anchor rather than dump it in a heap. Veer rather more scope than you think you need, you can shorten in a little later on if necessary to avoid other moored boats. Drift down wind or tide and when at the end of the scope and the anchor begins to bite, gradually increase the power astern to full throttle and wait until the scenery stops going by. If this cannot be achieved try again or only stay for lunch. If it happens regularly get a bigger anchor. Simple really - or is it? Don Alexander
Hi All, Here is a little article which I wrote for our Legend Owners Association newsletter some time back. The point is that, as far as anchors are concerned, it is the SIZE of the lump of bottom they grab which matters more than just the weight of the metalwork. If in doubt prowl round a marina and check on what everyone else is using. CONTEMPLATE YOUR ANCHOR This is an attempt to understand the magnitude of the forces involved in anchoring One day, when half a gale is blowing your boat onto the pontoon, stand amidships and try to push her off. Can't do it! In a full gale the force holding her on could be at least four times as great. Now take a long hard look at your anchor. Would you bury it in your flowerbed at home and expect it to hold when pulled by your car. No chance! Farmers use CQR anchors, four at a time, to plough fields - so they must drag. Nevertheless anchors are truly wonderful things. They hold yachts in extreme conditions when buried in sea bottoms of, sand, shingle etc, which must be lighter than the soil in your garden. From time to time yachting magazines publish excellent articles about anchoring techniques. Normally they agree on plenty of weight and plenty of scope but that is about all. Opinions then vary about what is best and this can be confusing. What these articles do not say, and about which there is no disagreement, is what is bad for an anchor's holding. 1) There must be no jerking. 2) There must be no sawing from side to side. 3) There must be no radical change of direction of pull. The latter normally only occurs when the tide changes and the winds are light, but, nonetheless it seems to cause most anchoring problems. Radical change of direction of pull can also occur if the eye of a hurricane passes overhead, Lord help you as you should not have been there in the first place. There is no mystery to anchoring and any means to achieve the above three conditions will suffice. If you can satisfy the rules then you should be reasonably secure. Clearly no anchors will hold properly in unsuitable bottoms such as weed, kelp, soft mud etc, but such places are shown on charts so don't try there. So what should you do? Read the published articles and just follow the rules, lay out your anchor rather than dump it in a heap. Veer rather more scope than you think you need, you can shorten in a little later on if necessary to avoid other moored boats. Drift down wind or tide and when at the end of the scope and the anchor begins to bite, gradually increase the power astern to full throttle and wait until the scenery stops going by. If this cannot be achieved try again or only stay for lunch. If it happens regularly get a bigger anchor. Simple really - or is it? Don Alexander
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Gary A.
I Think it is 11 kg
I'm on my boat now, and don't have a way to weigh the anchor, but I did measure the shank. The West Marine catalog shows the Bruce 22 as having a 23" shank, same length as mine. I'm thinking of moving up to the next size (33#), but now wonder about a "real" Bruce versus the much more affordable Horizon Claw. Any experience with these? Gary
I'm on my boat now, and don't have a way to weigh the anchor, but I did measure the shank. The West Marine catalog shows the Bruce 22 as having a 23" shank, same length as mine. I'm thinking of moving up to the next size (33#), but now wonder about a "real" Bruce versus the much more affordable Horizon Claw. Any experience with these? Gary
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Michael McCann
Bruce Markings
Gary; My anchor was purchased new in 1993, and it is labeled "Bruce Anchor 33 lbs-15kg Patented" on the starboard side. I have seen them with a "15", and with a "33" on them. Mike
Gary; My anchor was purchased new in 1993, and it is labeled "Bruce Anchor 33 lbs-15kg Patented" on the starboard side. I have seen them with a "15", and with a "33" on them. Mike
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R.W.Landau
The Bruce 11 is 5kg
Gary, According to West Marine Catalog the Bruce 11 is 5 kg. That is about 11 pounds. Also according to the West Marine catalog that is good for a 17 to 23 foot boat. r.wlandau
Gary, According to West Marine Catalog the Bruce 11 is 5 kg. That is about 11 pounds. Also according to the West Marine catalog that is good for a 17 to 23 foot boat. r.wlandau
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Don Evans
Check Out Their Homepage
They also have a very handy table of anchor size (storm and working size), given for a particular size boat (length and beam). Also the size of the rode and shackle to connect everything. I love my Bruce. Don
They also have a very handy table of anchor size (storm and working size), given for a particular size boat (length and beam). Also the size of the rode and shackle to connect everything. I love my Bruce. Don
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