Broken teak. Glue?
- Thread starter Ron20324
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I would use a clear 2 part epoxy. Cosmetically it
would be nice and for strength it would be the last place that it would ever break again. I like Devcon Clear 2 Ton Epoxy. It is real runny when first mixed so that it creates a fine fit when joined together. Excess epoxy can be filed and then sanded flush with the surface after it hardens. Voids on the upper surface can be filled with second touch up applicarion and then dressed down as after the original joining was done. You can then remove the old varnish and refinish. Done well you might have trouble even telling were it broke and the fix will last as long as the table is around.
would be nice and for strength it would be the last place that it would ever break again. I like Devcon Clear 2 Ton Epoxy. It is real runny when first mixed so that it creates a fine fit when joined together. Excess epoxy can be filed and then sanded flush with the surface after it hardens. Voids on the upper surface can be filled with second touch up applicarion and then dressed down as after the original joining was done. You can then remove the old varnish and refinish. Done well you might have trouble even telling were it broke and the fix will last as long as the table is around.
I've been "butchering" wood for almost 5 decades. I built my first boat in 1964 with two-part Resorcinol adhesive and the joints outlasted the wood. However, it shares the same bonding issues as epoxy when used with teak as a result of the wood's natural oils. However, the solution is the same for either... thorough cleaning of the joint with acetone. Thorough mixing and careful measuring are critical to a long lasting bond with either product. Properly used, either product will produce an durable, ample, strong and waterproof bond. As an aside, I will only use epoxy to repair old FRP laminate as I prefer the advantages of the chemical bond it employs to the mechanical bond of polyester resin.
That said, I worked extensivley with polyurethane in a boat manufacturing plant in the early 1970's and can say from 'painful' experience that I am well aware of the bonding capability of polyurethane as well as of some of its limitations. Having learned that they were using it commercially in Southeast Aisa to bond teak, I decided to experiment with it when it became readily available in consumer quantities (e.g. Gorilla Glue Brand). I initially assembled some joints with scrap teak and entertained myself with destructive analysis after having submerged the cured parts in water for over a week. Initially satisfied, I made a set of sliding teak companionway screens and then a set of 'washboards' about ten years ago. Though we no longer have that boat, I have kept up with the susequent owners and they are still in service and have not failed in any respect.
PE expands when activated (moisture in this instance), therefore tight and immovable clamping is essential. If the PE adhesive is permitted to expand in any appreciable amount, the bond will be weakened as expanded PE is simply foam and will fail. If the part is irregular and clamping dubious, epoxy is a far better solution.
My initial projects involved either lap joints, tenons, box joints or biscuits to support the adhesive. I have genarally abandoned that extra work, having gained confidence in the fact that a properly bonded joint is stronger than the wood itself (unless I use the joints for decorative purposes). I would consider using reinforcing joint for a short joint with long lever arms and high stress application. (e.g. companionway screens).
I surmise that the split as described simply followed the grain of the wood. However, I would have some concern as to what caused the table to split. If caused by exrteme stress such as from a crew member falling on the table wihile deployed, I wouldn't bother with biscuits or plates as a similar incident will simply cause a split elsewhere. If you came to the boat and fount the table split from an unknown cause, I would be concerned about defects in the board itself and would consider replacement of the baord.
That said, I worked extensivley with polyurethane in a boat manufacturing plant in the early 1970's and can say from 'painful' experience that I am well aware of the bonding capability of polyurethane as well as of some of its limitations. Having learned that they were using it commercially in Southeast Aisa to bond teak, I decided to experiment with it when it became readily available in consumer quantities (e.g. Gorilla Glue Brand). I initially assembled some joints with scrap teak and entertained myself with destructive analysis after having submerged the cured parts in water for over a week. Initially satisfied, I made a set of sliding teak companionway screens and then a set of 'washboards' about ten years ago. Though we no longer have that boat, I have kept up with the susequent owners and they are still in service and have not failed in any respect.
PE expands when activated (moisture in this instance), therefore tight and immovable clamping is essential. If the PE adhesive is permitted to expand in any appreciable amount, the bond will be weakened as expanded PE is simply foam and will fail. If the part is irregular and clamping dubious, epoxy is a far better solution.
My initial projects involved either lap joints, tenons, box joints or biscuits to support the adhesive. I have genarally abandoned that extra work, having gained confidence in the fact that a properly bonded joint is stronger than the wood itself (unless I use the joints for decorative purposes). I would consider using reinforcing joint for a short joint with long lever arms and high stress application. (e.g. companionway screens).
I surmise that the split as described simply followed the grain of the wood. However, I would have some concern as to what caused the table to split. If caused by exrteme stress such as from a crew member falling on the table wihile deployed, I wouldn't bother with biscuits or plates as a similar incident will simply cause a split elsewhere. If you came to the boat and fount the table split from an unknown cause, I would be concerned about defects in the board itself and would consider replacement of the baord.
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