Broken Stanchion

[Weekdaysailor]

Hi folks,

I've got a broken stanchion (1'st aft) and need to weld/replace. It broke at the little strap that curves around it. However, I can't figure out a good way to remove it. The outermost nuts are visible, but the inner are under the headliner. There is a teak block there that I think may be the trick - remove it and I'll see the other 2 nuts? Or I'll just see that I need to cut the headliner...??

Anyone who's done this before without cutting the liner?

Thanks!

-Keith
E-S/V 'Aja' 1978 Hunter 30
San Francsico, Ca

 

[Ed Schenck]

Are you getting a good look? On my H37C the outside most bolts go through the toerail and are readily seen inside. The inside most bolts(2) go through a pad then the raised deck. On the inside they are very close to being under the headliner but you can feel them. And you can get a socket on them also.

If they really are inaccessible from the inside maybe the nuts are captive. Did you try to take out the bolts? I am guessing that you did. If so then not much choice. We'll see what the other H30 owners have to recommend.

I also broke one at the base and took it off to have it welded. Unfortunately the shop welded it to the base at 90 degrees. I did not notice it until I went back to the boat with it. Yep, it is still that way and leans outward.

 

[Steve C.]

Mine no longer has the headliner. If you remove the teak block you should see the nuts.

 

[captjeff]

every one of the stanchion bolts are accessible w/o cutting the headliner as the area under the stanchion bolts are the side shelves and are open at the top I have a 1981 30 and am about to remove the stanchions to rebed them in 5200, so I have spotted each one prior to the removal (so I wouldn't get stuck), one in the lav is in the medicine cabinet, starboard in the closet, in v berth mid way on the shelf, in aft just forward of the locker on starboard(have to crawl in the starboard locker), port above the aft berth.

 

[ish]

I just re-mounted my bow pulpit on a 33_77 and the forwardmost stanchion bolts were accessible via the anchor locker. I imagine the difference is in that 3 feet somewhere, eh? But the rest of the stanchion bolts are all accessible above a bit of a lip in the headliner... not easily accessible, I can't get my hands up in there with a wrench, but my fiance can do it. I predict you'll need an assistant with very small hands, but it should be possible to get at all of them without removing the liner.

 

[Sanders]

to

-Keith
E-S/V 'Aja' 1978 Hunter 30
San Francsico, Ca[/quote]

No need to cut, but you will have to stand on your head to get at the bolts underneath the rail and have the right tools. On our 37 we have done repairs to stanchions with my wife below holding a socket with extender up in place against the bolts, while I worked from the top with a large Phillips screwdriver. It worked, but took some time and scraped knuckles.
I know of no easy way.

Good luck

Sanders
s/v Good News
H37c
Alameda

 

[RacerX]

...1981 30 and am about to remove the stanchions to rebed them in 5200, so I have spotted each one prior to the removal (so I wouldn't get stuck), ....

Jeff, u sure you want to use 5200? I think 4200 is a better choice. Any 5200 is gonna be there forever.

 

[Nereussailor]

On the older H30's the stanchions go through the deck not the toe rails. I can't imagine that the nuts would be under a headliner, but stranger things have been found on older boats. Mine on my 83 H30 are just outside of the headliner, and are accessible. They bolt through the toe rail. Some are a PITA to get at.