Could have been worse! Pulling our 216 out for the season, as the boat was almost all the way up on the trailer, someone said that the board needed to come up more. Wrong! One or two more pumps and Bam! Board drops not on the tray, but at least onto the trailer after cable tore. Shudder when I think if it broke before it could fall onto the trailer. Anybody know what's involved to replace? Assume the boat needs to be lifted to drop the board all the way in order to attach new cable. Help! Thanks!
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H-216 Broken Keel Cable
1. Another way to get everything out is to unbolt the entire housing then lift it up with a fork lift. I replaced my keel bearing this way (actually a local RV shop did the work). I presume you could get it out the same way even with a broken cable. 2. Others have replaced a broken cable. You might check the archives. 3. One thing I know is that the hydraulic cylinder exerts a **tremendous** amount of pressure. I have now installed three stop spacers between the cylinder and the end of the telescoping rod so I can't raise the keel all the way. (This way, I don't have to remember to lower the keel before driving off and raising the keel before launch...but I digress.) Anyhow, the first 2 spacers were fabricated from sea board and lasted exactly one keel raising. My third I made from oak. After the first keel raising (done by my crew...not me) the oak was considerably compressed. (You know how much pressure it takes to compress oak!) Now I make the crew remove the keel cover and watch as the keel comes up and stop pumping before too much pressure occurs. I wish Hunter would come up with a pressure release stop or something.
1. Another way to get everything out is to unbolt the entire housing then lift it up with a fork lift. I replaced my keel bearing this way (actually a local RV shop did the work). I presume you could get it out the same way even with a broken cable. 2. Others have replaced a broken cable. You might check the archives. 3. One thing I know is that the hydraulic cylinder exerts a **tremendous** amount of pressure. I have now installed three stop spacers between the cylinder and the end of the telescoping rod so I can't raise the keel all the way. (This way, I don't have to remember to lower the keel before driving off and raising the keel before launch...but I digress.) Anyhow, the first 2 spacers were fabricated from sea board and lasted exactly one keel raising. My third I made from oak. After the first keel raising (done by my crew...not me) the oak was considerably compressed. (You know how much pressure it takes to compress oak!) Now I make the crew remove the keel cover and watch as the keel comes up and stop pumping before too much pressure occurs. I wish Hunter would come up with a pressure release stop or something.
We've replaced one
We bored a hole through the port side of the centerboard well large enough to pull the pin through. Replaced the cable and used two large stainless fender washers well covered with sillicone with a good size bolt to hold them in place. Don't forget the old rule measure twice and cut once. We only cut once but measured 3 or 4 times and then used a smaller drill to make sure the larger hole was in the correct location. Everything worked well but I would suggest getting a replacement cable direct from Hunter as the one we had made locally has streched a little bit. Not a difficult job at all but it does require two people.
We bored a hole through the port side of the centerboard well large enough to pull the pin through. Replaced the cable and used two large stainless fender washers well covered with sillicone with a good size bolt to hold them in place. Don't forget the old rule measure twice and cut once. We only cut once but measured 3 or 4 times and then used a smaller drill to make sure the larger hole was in the correct location. Everything worked well but I would suggest getting a replacement cable direct from Hunter as the one we had made locally has streched a little bit. Not a difficult job at all but it does require two people.
Newer boats don't need to drill hole
Mr. Ernie is right if you have one of the earlier models. If you have a newer model, there should be a recess in the port side of the centerboard trunk that should allow you to remove the shackle pin. At least that is what I saw and how it was explained to me by Lind at Hunter. /Ernie (the other Ernie)
Mr. Ernie is right if you have one of the earlier models. If you have a newer model, there should be a recess in the port side of the centerboard trunk that should allow you to remove the shackle pin. At least that is what I saw and how it was explained to me by Lind at Hunter. /Ernie (the other Ernie)
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Lamar Sumerlin
Recess on Port Side of Center Board Trunk?
Hi Ernie, Could you be a bit more specific as where this recess is on the port side of the center board trunk? I have a Model year 2004 H216 and, after I saw your post, I went and looked at the port side of the center board trunk and I couldn't see any recess at all in the local area of where the shackle/pin for the center board trunk would be. However, I may be missing the point of your discussion. Any additonal explantion you could provide, and especially photos, would be appreciated. Thanks, Lamar
Hi Ernie, Could you be a bit more specific as where this recess is on the port side of the center board trunk? I have a Model year 2004 H216 and, after I saw your post, I went and looked at the port side of the center board trunk and I couldn't see any recess at all in the local area of where the shackle/pin for the center board trunk would be. However, I may be missing the point of your discussion. Any additonal explantion you could provide, and especially photos, would be appreciated. Thanks, Lamar
Recess on Centerboard trunk
Lamar, The recess (really more of a dimple) is located to the left of the centerboard shackle when the centerboard is fully retracted. It is about 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter and provides enough room get an allen wrench in to lossen the shackle pin and to slide the pin out of the centerboard. I can't help with a picture because my boat is an earlier model and doesn't have the recess. I hope this helped. /Ernie
Lamar, The recess (really more of a dimple) is located to the left of the centerboard shackle when the centerboard is fully retracted. It is about 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter and provides enough room get an allen wrench in to lossen the shackle pin and to slide the pin out of the centerboard. I can't help with a picture because my boat is an earlier model and doesn't have the recess. I hope this helped. /Ernie
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Lamar Sumerlin
Thanks for the info
Thanks Ernie, I can check it out when I take it out of the water later in the season. Lamar
Thanks Ernie, I can check it out when I take it out of the water later in the season. Lamar
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