Broken Bolt

[Manny]

Hi All,I was trying to replace the impeller on my '98 Honda BF8 and while removing the bottom portion of the outboard, one of the five bolts sheared off. It left a nub about a 1/4 inch sticking out. Corrosion was the culprit in this case. Anyway, I'm trying to figure out what to do. Would it be possible to cut a groove in it with a dremel, effectively creating a screw head and then soaking with PB Blaster, then trying to unscrew it? I'm afraid of using heat, since the area is painted. Or is it possible to drill into the screw somehow to collapse it, so as not to ruin the thread? I can't tell if the bolt was stainless, but it seems too light, is there a chance it could be aluminum?I'm not sure if it will make much of a difference if one of the bolts is missing, but I don't like taking chances...Help!!Thanks,Manny

 

[Scott On Eagles Wings]

Grind it

Manny grind it slightyly flat and slowly fit it with an open end wrench. Soaking it will definately help. Soak it over several days. We had one snap on our Johnson 9.9 and that is how we got it out. On the Johnson it was not stainless steel or alluminum. We also used heat just short of burning the paint. If it does snap again lower go to your local tool supplier and buy a bolt extractor for the proper size bolt. They also work very well. Good luck Scott "On Eagles Wings"

 

[Mike B]

Easy out option

Manny I've used a hacksaw to cut a grove across the stub and then used a screw driver to back it out. If that doesn't work try an easy out. You can pick one up at a Sears Hardware store. They're basically a reversed thread drill bit but with a tip that helps bite into the object to be removed. If you've never used one it's fairly easy. You'll need to drill a hole in the stub of the bolt, insert the easy out, give a couple of taps to help it bite, grip it with a pair of pliers or other suitable tool and then back out the bolt. I'll be honest in that it can sound easier than it is. The longer the bolt has been in place the more difficult it can be to remove. No matter which process you use you'll definately want to replace it. I would feel sure that it would leak if you didn't. Good luckMike

 

[Benny17441]

I would try gripping it with a pair of pressure pliers.

And use the handle as leaverage to turn it. First soak it in penetrating oil. If the end shears off again then get a thin drill bit and drill directly down into it. The trick is starting the drill bit slowly and keeping it centered. The heat generated by the drilling itself should be enough to break the lock it may have with the threaded wall. The fact that they may be aluminum bolts will make the process easier. As I suspect the threaded wall may be of aluminum also so proceed with caution.

 

[Mike B]

Another option

Manny, one more potential solution. You may be able to file the edges so you have flat spots on both sides. Then grip the bolt with a pair of vice grips. Of course soaking the bolt with the lubricant of your choice will help. A little heat can also help but you mentioned you were hesitant to do so for fear of ruining the paint around the area. I'm sure you'll receive a number of tips on this one.Mike

 

[Ross]

PB Blaster and a little heat will help.

There seems to be enough there to grab with vise grips. Rock it in both directions, soak it, heat it, be patient, there isn't much room there for mistakes. If you plan to try to drill it out grind a flat place on the end and with a sharp center punch make your mark, start with a small drill and work up. watch for the drill trying to wander, stop if it does. You don't want to drill out the side of the housing.

 

[LANCE ON CLOUD NINE]

PB Blaster soak 2 days

PB Blaster soak 2 days- Pb Blaster soak 2 days

 

[Maine Sail]

Second PB Blaster

I second PB Blaster! WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil!! Use PB let it soak at least overnight and then use a pair of high quality self tightening pliers. They work like a pipe wrench and get tighter the more you push. They are usually in the form of a water pumps style pliers but the bottom jaw is curved away. Mine are German but the name has long since worn away??P.S. One caveat about PB Balster DO NOT GET IT NEAR ANY ENGINE SEALS O-RINGS OR GASKETS AS IT WILL EAT THEM AND RUIN THEM! USE THE RED WAND AND BE VERY CAREFUL TO GET IT ONLY ON AND AROUND THE BOLT!

 

[dave]

Try soaking it and then vise grips. If or when that doesn't work take it and have a washer mig or tig welded to the stub than a nut welded to than. Try working it out, it may be necessary to take a SMALL hammer and give it a few raps to get it moving. Then work it back and forth as you take it out. Dave

 

[s sauer]

PB Blaster

If you are worried about your paint, be aware that PBBlaster has Acetone in it. Ever notice how fast Acetone disolves paint?

 

[Rick Webb]

Machine Shop

They will have it out for you the same day for probably not much more than $20. This is exactly why I change my impellor at least every other year. The new one alway looks as good as the old one but if I waited too much longer I would have a hell of a time getting it apart.I helped a buddy do his last year on a motor that had not been done in ten years we broke four bolts and a ratchet getting his apart. a machine shop charged him $50 and another $20 to the dealer for new bolts but he figured he was still ahead of the curve buy saving money that was not spent on impellor replacements.

 

[jackhartjr]

Hi Manny, I have a similar...

...situation in a Detroit 318 motor! First spray up in the hole with WD-40 and do it every day for at least a week. Two would be better. (Yeah...I saw the post that said WD-40 is not that good. I had small screws on the door hinges of my bus that had been there for between 30 and 50 years. Same as this, metal screws going into an aluminum body. I let it soak for three weeks, all but one of the roughly 32 came loose!)If what Ross said to do does not work with the vice grips...and I think it will...but if it don't; weld a flatwasher onto the end of the bolt. (Get a flatwasher that is not quite the diameter of that bolt.) Then weld a nut on top of the flatwasher. While it is still hot from the weld, take a wrench and take it out!Jack Hart

 

[Stu Jackson]

Forget WD40, it's myth, get PB Blaster

and save yourself a LOT of effort. Available at any hardware store, far superior to Liquid Wrench.Instead of three weeks, it'd be three hours, really

 

[Allan]

PB Blaster/Marine Sealant

Will P B Blaster have an effect on a marine sealant? I am trying to remove hatch screws that have been sealed and I'm afraid to strip the heads of the screws.

 

[Gary]

Major heart ache

I had the same thing happen on a bolt that held the carb to a snowblower. This can be a major head ache. One thing not to use is an "easy out" I've tried those before and they tend to crack in place and make a problem even worse. You may end up having to drill out the broken bolt. Use a very small carbide bit. You will go through a few. Use oil as you drill. Then, after you've made a bunch of holes, you can use a very small cold steel chisel. Take care to avoid the threads. You will likely need to chase the threads with a tap. Don't rush this and take your time.

 

[SamLust]

Addendum

Ross and Maine Sail are, of course, correct. The only thing I would add is cycling hot to cool. Heat is a major component to breaking corrosive hold on a fastener. Heat and cool help to break that bond with expansion and contraction. If you're concerned about the paint try a hot air blower. You can get one in any decent hardware department from about $30 or $40 on up to $150. I don't care a lot about paint (I can always repaint) so my preference is a real flame torch. MAPP gas is all you are ever likely to need. My technique is to warm up the broken fastener real good and then spray in little shots of penetrating oil (P B Blaster is one of the best amd can now be found in most home centers). The cooling action of the solvent boiling off seems to draw the penetrant in, reducing the wait time. While you're at it, rap smartly on the end of the broken piece to further break the corosive bond. If the penetrant flames up you might want to reduce the temparature a wee bit. This is a thing you really want to do far away from things like gas appliances, solvent soaked rags and so-on. On that Honda, check out the little plastic cover behind the water pump. Mine showed it's cracked ears as I snugged it down. If it's broken your water pump will not get the water it needs. Also, that ball bearing looks to have some rust on it which probably isn't so good. I recall mine having a fully sealed bearing there. The plastic cover is available and your Honda dealer can tell you what the correct bearing is.

 

[caguy]

Try what Ross said. The heat will cause the aluminum

to expand more than the steel bolt and that should loosen it. Shouldn't take that much heat and you can still save the paint.Frank

 

[Mike B]

Watch what you spray

IF you do spray as Sam suggests DO NOT use WD40. They use a flamable product gas to expel the WD40 from the can. CRC makes a number of products and uses compressed air to expel the contents.

 

[Alan]

With reassembly....

...be sure to coat ALL threaded parts with a quality copper grease that way you will never have a problem taking it apart again.When I bought my Yamaha outboard I took off each bolt in turn, coated with copper grease and reinstalled. Twelve years later I have never had a frozen bolt in my motor. Same goes for the Yanmar, especially the bolts on the heat exchanger. The copper grease can withstand more than 2000 degrees F.

 

[Rick Webb]

Copper AntiSeize is a No No on Boats Especially with Aluminum

Remember making batteries with pennies in grade school science class? Definitly use anti seize when you reassemble but not the copper stuff. Permetex makes some you can pick up at Auto Zone or any of thos places that uses aluminum that is the one you want.Let us know how it went.