broke combi propeller blade

M

marcin_palacz

.
Jan 17, 2005
99
Hi all,

I catched a buoy with my combi propeller,
and as result, one of the two blades of this
propeller got broken.

Anybody has a blade (blades) for a combi
propeller for sale, or knows about such ?
Or an entire propeller ?

When trying to unwrap the mess underwater,
we were able to turn the engine backwards.
The shaft was turning, but the propeller
was not. Does that mean that something got
damaged in addition to the blade ?

The boat is still in water, so I could
not check yet what exactly the damage is

Thanks for help in advance,

Marcin
V1958 "Lotta"
now in Elblag,
Poland
 
T

Trevykins

.
Nov 11, 2016
96
Nimble Arctic Toronto
Marcin -- There is a half-moon shaped sheer pin on the prop end of the shaft. Hopefully, replacing it and the prop will solve your problems.

To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
From: palacz@...
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 19:54:53 +0000
Subject: [AlbinVega] broke combi propeller blade


Hi all,

I catched a buoy with my combi propeller,
and as result, one of the two blades of this
propeller got broken.

Anybody has a blade (blades) for a combi
propeller for sale, or knows about such ?
Or an entire propeller ?

When trying to unwrap the mess underwater,
we were able to turn the engine backwards.
The shaft was turning, but the propeller
was not. Does that mean that something got
damaged in addition to the blade ?

The boat is still in water, so I could
not check yet what exactly the damage is

Thanks for help in advance,

Marcin
V1958 "Lotta"
now in Elblag,
Poland
 
M

marcin_palacz

.
Jan 17, 2005
99
Hi,

I am now dismounting the propeller.

Unscrewing the big rear screw
(number 13 in the drawing
),
so it was with the four small screws (number 4),
which keep the two propeller half-hubs together.

The front half-hub can now be moved freely
(a few cm towards the engine), but the aft
one (number 3) remains firmly fixed.

Should I just pull the half-hub with some force,
or there is perhaps any thread inside
(I can't see how I can turn the hub)
or perhaps anything else should be done to remove this hub ?

And this is how my propeller looks like:
One blade got broken and is gone, the other
one is strongly bent.

Two blades have are already been sent to me by Steve!
Thanks Steve!

Cheers,

Marcin
V1958 "Lotta"
Elblag, Poland
 
V

vegasailor2001

.
May 3, 2004
34
Hi Marcin!

I am not sure it would helped in this case, but at the end of the propeller (hold by the bolt) it is supposed to be a zink-anod. Not having a zink-anod makes the propeller blades brittle and makes them brake more easily. To late now, but maybe worth to consider when you get the new ones from Steve!

Good luck,

Björn
Vega 2757
 
V

vegasailor2001

.
May 3, 2004
34
Hi Marcin,

There is a custom made zink anod made to exactly fit the combi propeller at the Vega. It is placed at the end of the propeller hold by the bult. A new one weight about 350 g. My anod loses about 50 g every year so I change it after 3-4 years when it looks to corroded. I have my boat in Gothenbyrg, south of Lysekil.

You can have a look at it on Albin Motor (former Fors Marin): www.albinmotor.com / WEBSHOP / Albin Båtdelar / AZVEGA

Just the zink anod (AZVEGA) cost 150 skr. You can also by a complet set (which I think you need to start with) called AZVEGASATS for 200 skr.

There has been a lot of discussions about zink anods on this forum lately, but from what I have heard, without an anod the brons slowly loses tin (which is not seen by the aye) and the material starts slowly to become brittle. I you hit something hard the propeller will brake instead of being bend (and be able to be repaired).

I hope this will be of some help!

Best regards,

Björn
 
J

johnadenney

.
Oct 30, 2011
221
Does the anode have to be actually on the prop shaft? I have an anode on the hull which is connected to the engine (ie negative) and I presume, by default, to the prop. and its shaft Is this correct?
Thanks...
 
J

johnadenney

.
Oct 30, 2011
221
The anode is close to the stern - quite close to the prop and if I
remember correctly the prop shaft is gripped by locking rings which I
guess will make direct electrical contact to the rest of the engine/
combi gearbox? I have not checked the anode for continuity - I am not
sure how to achieve this as it is in the water at the moment... it
will have to wait for the next haulout.

John
 
N

n4lbl

.
Oct 7, 2008
307
I'm not sure of the correct name but some engines connect to the propeller
shaft with a "flexible coupling" which provides some extra tolerance for
misalignment. The coupling if you have one might be a good insulator.

I just checked the *Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical Manual* (3rd
Edition) by Nigel Calder. From page 215:

"For a zinc to work it must have a near electrically perfect connection
with the bonding circuit. ... For example, when connecting remotely placed
zincs to wood and fiberglass hulls, do not put a stainless steel bolt
through a zinc and connect a bonding wire to the bolt. The zinc will soon
corrode at the point where it contacts the stainless steel, and the
connection will deteriorate."

On page 218 there is a photo of a zinc anode on a propeller shaft and an
ohmmeter measuring the resistance from the zinc to the nut holding the
propeller on. The text that goes with the picture is:

"The resistance between a bronze propeller and the shaft zinc protecting it
and it's stainless steel propeller shaft is 0.1 ohm indicating a good
connection."

Alan
 
A

africanmarco

.
Dec 14, 2013
50
Albin Marin Vega 27 Venice
Hello Marcin,

I am a vega owner (n. 3339) my prop blades are pretty thin as there was no anode when I purchased it last year. I have now applied the propen zinc anode and got a spare prop. In case I end up with a broken blade, is it possible to remove the prop without removing the shaft? After your msg below, I got one where you say the prop is now removed, but I miss how you managed it. Thanks x the info. Marco Baldan

Sent from my iPhone
 
M

marcin_palacz

.
Jan 17, 2005
99
Hi Marco,

It was easy to "open" the prop,
and then I could remove the blades.

I suppose it is possible to dismount the prop
completely without removing the shaft
(anybody can confirm ?)
but I have not tried that.

You may find some pictures of my prop here:
groups.yahoo.com

Yahoo! Groups

groups.yahoo.com groups.yahoo.com

Marcin
V1958 "Lotta"
 
A

africanmarco

.
Dec 14, 2013
50
Albin Marin Vega 27 Venice
Thanks! I am enjoying my Vega on a long sail. Left Ijmuiden, near Amsterdam (NL) Sun 12 to land in Falmouth (UK) on Thur 17. 495 NM in 112 hours, 2/3 against the wind. Tomorrow will set sail x Lisbon, Portugal. Then either Azores or the Mediterranean... The Vega behaves greatly!

Sent from my iPhone
 
M

marcin_palacz

.
Jan 17, 2005
99
I am now mounting the new blades.
It turns out that it is not possible to mount
them with the neutral position as before.
They are turned either too much "forward"
or too much "backward".

Anybody has an explanation for this ?
I don't.

At the moment, the neutral position of the propeller
(checked by aligning two marks: one at one of the blades
and the other one at the hub)
corresponds to the lever in the cocpit
in an almost vertical position.
Before, the neutral position
was at an angle approx. 45 degrees forward, in agreement with the
signs at the metal plate in the cocpit.

If I change the position of the blades inside
the hub by turning them by one "tooth", the neutral position
corresponds to the lever position almost horizontal,
and there is not enough space to get a reasonable
forward pitch.

I have not touched anything inside the boat,
so evertyhing should be as before, but it is not.
I now that I can re-synchronize the engine revs with the
position of the prop by turning the cam at the combi,
but I can't understand why it should be necessary.

Marcin
 
J

johnadenney

.
Oct 30, 2011
221
Is it possible that the control tube has moved slightly? I guess your
prop fouled something causing the broken blades and perhaps that
caused the clamp rings to give a bit thus allowing the tube to move
out? Just a thought...
Good luck with it - I had a nightmare with my combi/prop setup - if I
never see one again it will be too soon!

John
 
E

ecoearthyacht

.
Aug 31, 2010
11
tylercraft tylercraft 26 sf bay area sonoma county
Hello, I am repowering my Vega in california now sitting on its trailer . I am repowering since the old volvo is dead on arrival. I am taking out the combi shaft and prop entire assembly and want to sell it to help raise monies for our engine replacement. We are putting in an electric motor. I invite othere to consider this option. So, the combi prop and assembly , I assume working , is for sale . Contact me if interested , and on the discussion of electric motors in a Vega. Has anyone on the board here done such an installation? TIm at 415 713 6876 ecoearthyacht@.... I can send pics of the combi prop and shaft .
 
N

n6ric

.
Mar 19, 2010
208
Tim,
I pulled my MD6A and Combi also and had thought about going electric. The problem isn't with the electric motors available today. There are some compact powerful options out there. The problem is with the batteries. Unless you are only going to be costal cruising where you are doing short trips, your batteries either end up weighing more than your diesel did (and take up more space) or they cost you over $10k for just the batteries. Hopefully, the battery solution will be solved soon, but until then, I'm putting four 6v batteries where the engine used to be and adding a 15hp electric start outboard with an alternator. I will still need solar panels, wind generator and a small gasoline generator, but all of that will be less expensive than the electric motor route. Just my 2 cents worth.

BTW, I'm in Southern California. Too bad we aren't closer...

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
 
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