bringing the sails down.

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D

doug miller

guys, i'm going to "pick your brains".. i'm new to sailing and new to this boat. sailed today, single handed. when it came time to motor into the dock, i wound up the head sail with the furler. let the main sheet out and tried to depower the boat as much as possible. but while i was lowering the main, the boat did two pretty quick 360 degree turns, not a pretty thing. unless you have some suggestions, i'll try lowering the main first next time, then roll up the jib. i think i need some sort of tiller tamer also, had one on my previous boat which would keep the tiller fixed in one position. i've ask another question on a separate thread. thanks for helping. doug
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Dousing the sails

Conventional wisdom says the headsail (jib) comes down (furls) first. To lower the main, you should stop the boat head to wind, ease the mainsheet and tighten the topping lift. The sail will act like a weathervane and keep the bow pointed into the wind. You should drop the sail quickly as the boat may start to drift and if it turns beam-on to the wind, the sail may bind in the track. If the bow starts to drift, you can move the boom slightly by hand to keep the bow pointed up into the wind. I don't recommend motoring into the wind unless you have some way of positively controlling the tiller, because the boat is likely to turn more suddenly under power. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
Jan 24, 2008
293
Alerion Express 28 Oneida Lake, NY
Dousing the sails

I agree with everything Peter suggests, except that on our h260 we tighten the mainsheet, bringing the boom amidships, before releasing the main halyard. It’s the only way to keep the boat into the wind. We leave the tiller loose. Paul s/v The Lord Nelson
 
J

Jonathan Dyer

Dousing the main

I agree, the jib comes down first. I singlehand quite a bit - here's how I manage dousing the sails. With the boat downwind, I start the engine. I point the boat into the wind and center the jib. With bungee cords doing the job of autopilot to keep the boat pointed into the wind, I release the mainsheet and the jib halyard and then go forward to douse the jib (I'm working on a downhaul that I can operate from the cockpit so that I can bring down the jib without going forward) and then secure it (sail ties or bungee cords; the jib is centered so no need to secure it to the pulpit or lifeline). Next - a quick trip back to the cockpit to make any adjustments as to the direction of the boat (with the mainsheet released, the fact that the bow starts falling off/bearing away a bit is generally not an issue). Once I've got the boat is back up wind I release the main halyard and douse/sea furl the main with sail ties. The trick is, unfortunately, doing this all rather quickly. Lots of strong currents here can cause quick changes in the boat's direction - it's just something I have to be aware of. Also, I have to be willing to stop the process at any point to get the boat windward again if it falls off too much. From time to time because of traffic or currents, I end up sailing a bit with just the main to find a good spot to finish the process. The least comfortable point in all of this is going forward to douse the jib with the main up and nothing more to count on for crew than a couple of bungee cords. Writing this all down makes it seem rather complicated, but it's pretty straightforward when I'm doing it. Jonathan Dyer
 
May 11, 2004
85
- - Richmond, VA
Dousing the main

You need the boast "in irons" right upwind to take down the main. So you definitely need to furl the gib first to help keep the boat "in irons". If you have a crew member, simply tell them to keep the boat pointed right up wind. If not, then tricks with bungee cords on the tiller may help. Be sure to look around to make sure there is no boat traffic or shoal areas around you. Work fast on the main. Make sure no wind is filling the sail or you will never get it down (or up).
 
F

Frank Ladd

Letting down the main on different points

If you are in resticted spaces like the ICW you may not always be able to point the boat upwind to let the sails down or put them up. You can learn to put the sails up on any point of wind so long as the slides are sliding freely and the sail doen't have full battens.
 
R

Rock Smith

216 designed for singlehanders

Check it out - You have a well designed boat built to singlehand. Using your head, you can get this down with a little practice and avoid those really fun automatice--yet startling--loops. Consider... > Black furling line played out, waiting for you to grab and depower jib - no sweat and 40 seconds. If it does not work like this, length of ffurling sheet may be too short, or you don.t have enough wraps on furler to wrap it up fast. > Your jib sheets should be long enogh to mainpulate from the transom. > I motor into wind to maintain right attitude that does not fill sails. Key is just enuff ROMs to maintain control. > Sea furling the main is a key concept - do it fast tp avoid probs and flake itproper when at the mooring later
 
K

Kris

Dyer's Sail Plan, Additional Note

Jon, I'm a regular single hander and do exactly as you described, but would add one note of caution and recommendation. Make sure you have a good sturdy sail stop screwed in the track on the mast. I learned the hard way. I was bringing down the main in a brisk breeze, my sail stop popped out and promptly bounced overboard. A gust caught the loose main and I must have been a prime candidate for the world's funniest video as I tryed to gather in the main, after it blew overboard, while the boat spun in circles in a busy harbor. I've since bought a heavy duty sail stop and secured a nylon thread tether between the stop and the mast/boom gooseneck. I now always check to ensure the stop is screwed securely in place before bringing down the main and sea furling.
 
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Jonathan Dyer

Sail Stop

Kris, Thanks for the tip. I've been taking the sail stop 's operation/quality for granted. I'll check it and upgrade it if necessary. Thanks again. Jonathan Dyer
 
May 11, 2004
85
- - Richmond, VA
dropped sail stop

I dropped my sail stop once while lowering the mainsail and it bounced around a bit on the cabin top and luckily didn't fall overboard. I think I will follow that suggestion of tying some fishing line to it in some way.
 
R

Rock Smith

216 different than other Hunters

Violent agreement with all who suggest bow to wind, douse. Strong disagreement with those stating tiy can get maiun down at any point of sail. After my initial foray last year with my spankin new 216 (accidentally) dousing with wind amidships, then from over stern, I T-boned a J boat in my mooring field, almost running it up on the rocks because I could not get main down fast enuff. My San Diego based ASA Basic keelboating certificaiton experience taught me bow to wind. Why tempt fate? From my ealrier post in this thread, Glen Larson designed the 216 to single hand and be a performance boat simultaneously. You don't have to go forward to furl jib with proper sheets, and you gotta respect all that sail aloft.
 
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Nick

depowering

I keep my boat on a mooring but I used to keep my J24 in a slip. I kept the main up while motoring into the slip and let the sheets out. As long as the wind is not coming from behind you should be fine. Otherwise, head the boat into the wind with the motor off, drop the main then start the motor.
 
Jun 22, 2004
71
Hunter 240 GREENVILLE,SC
sail stops and bungee cords

The sail stop on my 240. I drilled a small hole in the end and threaded a small SS oring in and then used some bead chain to attach it pin that holds the sail on the boom. If you need details shoot me a line and I'll furnish them. Bungee cords. I know everyone has seen the small cords with the balls on the end. I took it a step further and used tennis balls and bungee cord. works great and they float.
 
Mar 23, 2004
119
- - Paradise, CA
Keeping bow into wind almost impossible

What all these posts miss is that it is almost impossible to keep the bow of the H216 into the wind unless you are making way. You can be dead on into the wind and if the bow drifts off the wind the slightest, it simply blows downwind. I think this is due to the larger freeboard of the bow relative to the rest of the boat...plus the light weight. Regardless, the boat has a mind of its own. I use a bungee tiller tamer. I have two eye straps on the side of the port/starboard bench seats. I hook the bungee into one eye strap, "thread" it through the tiller, to the other bungee. I don't wrap it around the tiller. This way, the tiller will slip through the bungee fairly easily. I can have the tiller tamer in place, steer into the wind (bungee slips), the let go and the tiller is held in place. First, I start the motor so I have a source of propulsion once the sails are dropped. I leave it in neutral. Second I furl the jib. You do not need to be bow into the wind to furl the jib. Third, I head into the wind then, quick like a bunny, I leap forward and drop the main before the boat loses headway. Forth, I put the motor in gear and drive off looking like I actually knew what I was doing, thankyouverymuch!
 

Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
Try heaving-to

After you are hove-to and making little or no way, you can release the mainsheet and traveler and drop the main. Of course, the tiller will need to be tied off to leeward but this should give you some time to drop and secure the main.
 
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RAD

Jib Extinguisher

I sailed an O'Day daysailer for years and added a line from the cockpit through the cuddy cabin to a pully at the tack of the jib. The line then followed the forestay to the jib halyard and was connected. This way I could releasethe jib halyard and pull on the extinguisher line bringing the jib to the fore deck with not a problem. It worked every time and pointing to weather kept th jib on the deck and out of the water. As for dousing a main - always point to weather and drop the sail. Then start flaking at the aft end of the boom by pulling folds of the sail aft, one to port and the next fold to starboard stacking them on top of the boom as you go. One fold for every track slide, add a few sail ties and it is done. I now sail a Hunter 30' and flake the main in this fashion alone. It goes really quickly and neatly and the sail now has a flaked memory and lines up on the boom beautifully. Hope this helps
 
May 11, 2004
273
RAPTOR Hotfoot 20 Ghost Lake
Same Thing

I do exactly the same as RAD but have added lazy jacks. I love these things. I don't have any problems with the main falling all over the cockpit and often don't even use the sail ties untill I'm on my mooring.
 
K

Kris

Bungee Tiller Tamer

Ranger, Please describe your eye straps and how did you secure the eye straps to the bench seats? I just ordered a commercial tiller tamer from this web site and am trying to figure out the best way to set it up. Thanks
 
Mar 23, 2004
119
- - Paradise, CA
Bungee tiller tamer

Kris, I simply screwed in a couple eye straps down low on the side of the bench seats...one on each side...then got a bungee of the correct length. I hook the bungee on one eye strap, thread it up and over the tiller, then down to the other eye strap. This provides enough friction to lightly hold the tiller yet still allows me to steer. I'll have to admit that when I'm lazy sailing I often use it as I don't have to steer and I only make a course correction once in a while.
 
K

Kris

Tiller Tamer

Sounds simple enough...think I can handle that. I know what you mean since I do a lllooottt of lazy sailing. Should work while striking the captain's pose while the racing fleet screams by me also. You know, chest out, hands on the hips...look y'all...no hands!!! My autopilot is in full control.
 
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