Bright work refinishing and spider cracks

[DanaT]

As I plan for spring repairs the two that stand out is the bright work needs total refinishing and there are numerous areas on deck with a lot of spider cracks.

The teak rails have finish missing to the bare wood so I suspect it best to remove them completely, refinish, and re-bed. Unfortunately the outer rails have to have plugs drilled out to remove the screws. I'm a bit concerned about the ability of new screws grabbing well when re-installing. Any suggestions?

Spider cracks; looks like there is a lot of info on youtube and the web. Doesn't look like it will be too difficult. Also have to see about reinforcing any areas from below.

 

[Brian S]

Pop the plugs out with a knife blade, and use a dental-type pick to dig out the slots in the Phillips head. It's not too bad, really. Others use a drywall screw into the center of the plug. It will twist down through the plug into the center of the Phillips head, then spin and lift out the plug. I have found that depending on how deep the plug is, this generally only lifts out maybe 1/2 of the plug, and then you're into the knife again.

If your toe rails are in reasonably good shape, and the plugs haven't popped, you'd probably do better to sand and finish in place. If you go to the trouble of removing them, you should fill the existing holes, and then install new toe rails. Start in the middle of the toe rail with one fastener. Once the pilot hole for the fastener is in the fiberglass, and you've got the corresponding countersunk hole in the toe rail (there are bits designed to drill the pilot hole and countersunk hole for the head of the screw) then I would move it and make sure to countersink the hole in the fiberglass. This will reduce stress cracks as you install the fastener. Also, the countersinking provides more surface area for your bedding material to fill in around the fastener, preventing leaking in the future much more effectively. So, once you've got your middle fastener properly sealed and fastened, go forward and bend the toe rail and set your next fastener. Once bedded and set, move aft of the 1st fastener, and repeat, alternating fore and aft until you get to the ends. Rudy from D&R tells me this is how the factory set the toe rails, not by starting at one end and working to the other.

Don't use epoxy for setting the plugs over the fasteners. Use Titebond 3 or similar. Epoxy makes it too hard to remove the plug in the future.

Regardless if you re-use or replace the toe rails, you'll still be finishing in place, because you have to set the plugs before varnish...

I think for fine spider cracks, most people just leave them. Then generally won't go through the laminate below.

 

[DanaT]

Brian, thanks for your thoughts on this. I will leave the rails on the boat since they really are in good shape, just needs refinishing.
I suppose if I leave a minute gap around the painting tape at the base of the rails the new varnish will help make up for any potential deficiencies' in the original bedding. There was some water in the bilge and under the port cabin bench. Could be from a small opening if front of the mast mount that needs a cover.
Refinishing them in place will be a whole lot easier. Thanks again.

 

[4father]

As for those spider cracks, they likely exist because of a sagging, soggy, and/or delaminated core. I've already made the mistake of replacing teak before fixing core issues. Apparently O'Day used a Bisquick based bedding compound. Over the years it breaks down and water will start invading the core from every available orifice drilled into or through the deck/cabin top.

Key questions to help identify core rot issues?

1. Does the deck feel spongy?
2. Is there rust around hardware that pokes through the cabin top?
3. Is there always water in the bilge?
4. Is there ooze, yuck, or staining visible on the cabin top? < from the inside
5. Do the stanchions bases move when pushed and pulled?
6. Is the boat prone to mold?
7. Is the gel-coat cracked without any sign of hard object impact?
8. Do the ports seem to leak no matter how well I seal them from the outside?
9. Is there water damage to bulkheads?
10. Am I chasing a leak that I can't seem to find?

Think about these questions. If you answered "yes" to more than a few, you likely have rotten core issues. I posted a summary of my own core project a few months ago... you might want to take a peek at it.

Good luck, and happy sailing

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/oday-25-forward-deck-recore.173453/

 

[DanaT]

These are all good suggestions. Most is around the winches at the cockpit. Also on the cockpit bench seat apparently from stepping down from the upper deck too hard.
As far as I can tell so far all decks are solid, haven't found anything spongy. The only apparent wet area was inside the cabin where the port bunk meets the hull. It looks as if the fiberglass is cracked and was wet at that juncture.
There was about a quart of water in the bilge but who know how long it was uncovered. There are two holes top side, 1) where the mast light cable goes thru, and 2) near the bow. These did not have any type of cover and are about 3/4 dia open.
Your info about the bedding has me considering pulling the teak rails. Unfortunately they are screwed and bunged from the top. But may be worth the effort to re-bed.
The bumper rail around the perimeter is broken in several areas and should be replaced.
Right now she is under cover for the winter. All things to consider for the spring.
Thanks for your advice.