I am refinishing the brightwork on my sailboat this spring. I plan on bleaching and sanding (by hand and dremel)...that much is certain, and i know we want a high gloss finish...but product confusion has me at a dead stop. What to use...my paramaters are ease of use, good coverage, uv protection, longevity and repairability. Sikkens? Z-spar varnish? bristol finish? epoxy? one part, two part...what do you suggest...
bright work product confusion
- Thread starter Islander36Kairos
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Here's your product: Unobtainium™ @ $490/quart. Just open the can and it will apply all by itself.
;-)
This is one topic, like "favorite" anchors, and what's the "best" way to make coffee on your boat, that really has no "right" answer. It all depends on what you like and how much work you're planning to invest in over time. Many love cetol because of its lack of future work. Others hate it 'cuz of the color. Many love the look of varnish (of any type) while others hate the amount of work involved and the care needed in preparation. It's really a case of your boat, your choice.
As far as "bleaching" and "dremmel", I've found the easiest way to clean old teak, after removing the old coating, is to use either two step or one step teak cleaner and brightener. It's a LOT less work. Maybe that's what you mean by "bleaching."
FWIW, after 30 years of dealing with this issue, my personal choice, after doing the varnish, plain teak oil and cetol routines, is cetol. Easy, fast, the color's pretty much the same as the old varnish we removed, and it's so easy it's like painting. Simple. Right mu MY alley!
As far as "bleaching" and "dremmel", I've found the easiest way to clean old teak, after removing the old coating, is to use either two step or one step teak cleaner and brightener. It's a LOT less work. Maybe that's what you mean by "bleaching."
FWIW, after 30 years of dealing with this issue, my personal choice, after doing the varnish, plain teak oil and cetol routines, is cetol. Easy, fast, the color's pretty much the same as the old varnish we removed, and it's so easy it's like painting. Simple. Right mu MY alley!
The only finish I will use any more on the exterior is Epiphanes gloss. The more coats the better.
Current boat has only one piece of exterior teak on the companionway hatch.
I am with Stu on the "Best" because what is better than the best is NOTEAKATALL.
Regardless of what you end up using you will be wise to cover ALL of your teak when the boat is not in use. We had teak boards in the companionway that were refinished over 10 years ago. They see very little light of day because we had a cover made for the companionway. It covered the Cetol boards and keeps the dirt & rain out of the interior.
I am with Stu on the "Best" because what is better than the best is NOTEAKATALL.
Regardless of what you end up using you will be wise to cover ALL of your teak when the boat is not in use. We had teak boards in the companionway that were refinished over 10 years ago. They see very little light of day because we had a cover made for the companionway. It covered the Cetol boards and keeps the dirt & rain out of the interior.
There is nothing prettier than raw, unfinished, clean, dry, un-coated teak. Especially on a dock neighbor's boat.
I still use the OEM solution Hunter used when my boat was new.
I use 1 part Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil mixed with 3 parts Daly's ProFin (gloss or satin, your choice) after an initial coat or two of straight SeaFin for things that will be exposed to UV / weather / water or abuse (aka my cabin sole or slats)
For interior woodwork that gets frequent handling (cabinet door) it's a 1:1 mixture, and any anything else that doesn't get abused, gets straight SeaFin (gives a beautiful very long lasting natural teak look)
This formulation came directly from the old salt at Daly's who designed the product originally, and made the formulations for Hunter back in the late 80's and early 90's.
I use 1 part Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil mixed with 3 parts Daly's ProFin (gloss or satin, your choice) after an initial coat or two of straight SeaFin for things that will be exposed to UV / weather / water or abuse (aka my cabin sole or slats)
For interior woodwork that gets frequent handling (cabinet door) it's a 1:1 mixture, and any anything else that doesn't get abused, gets straight SeaFin (gives a beautiful very long lasting natural teak look)
This formulation came directly from the old salt at Daly's who designed the product originally, and made the formulations for Hunter back in the late 80's and early 90's.
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I just did my companionway bright work with Cetol Marine Light and Cetol clear gloss. It might not be the answer for you, but here's my first-time experience (complete w photos): http://cal24.wordpress.com/2011/02/09/companionway-leak-part-1/
Mark
Mark
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I am an Epiphanes user with good results. They have a varnish especially formulated for teak. Follow the thinning instructions to get good penetration.
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