What has the experience been with the "Auto Release Cleat"? I was wanting to hear how it was working before jumping into the retrofit. I recently needed the feature as I motored onto my trailer in a 30 mph crosswind. I left the rudder in its down position to give me as much control as possible for my one shot at the trailer. My added keel guides on the trailer really helped with alignment but I still drug the rudder a bit on the ramp. It would have been nice for it to have cut loose to minimize the abrasion. So has the release cleat fixed the rudder/grounding issue? Doug SV "playtime"
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Auto release cleat
Doug - I bought the auto release cam cleat from West Marine (special order)and haven't installed it yet but...,it will take a maximum line size of 1/4 inch. I emailed the manufacturer in the UK and that is the only size they make in the auto release model. So, we will have to ensure that the 1/4 inch line is run through a sheave inside the rudder to double the purchase. The adjustable feature is pretty slick. The maker would like some comments from anyone on the performance of the unit. Almost time to splash the boat here. Pat
Doug - I bought the auto release cam cleat from West Marine (special order)and haven't installed it yet but...,it will take a maximum line size of 1/4 inch. I emailed the manufacturer in the UK and that is the only size they make in the auto release model. So, we will have to ensure that the 1/4 inch line is run through a sheave inside the rudder to double the purchase. The adjustable feature is pretty slick. The maker would like some comments from anyone on the performance of the unit. Almost time to splash the boat here. Pat
mixed feelings on results
I have mixed feelings about the results. The cleat went on fine. I drilled and tapped new holes in the aluminum base of the tiller and all went together very easily. (see photo). Then I read an article here by Rob Mazza, the chief design engineer at Hunter, titled "A word from the designer" about rudder balance. Most of the article didn't apply to the 260 since the rudder housing has been redesigned with a stop at the proper angle, but his last paragraph talks about not using the cleat to hold the rudder in the down position. He says you should only use the "wing nut" to tighten the rudder clamp (housing) to hold the rudder down. Then if you strike something the rudder can swing up. That's assuming you don't have the wing nut and clamp so tight nothing can give. He says the cleat should only be used to hold the rudder in the up position. So I'm still evaluating if I think the auto release cleat is an un-necessary extra. It also means I don't have use of the deck cleat to hold the rudder in the up position while trailering. However, you can pin the rudder in the up position. If I keep the cleat I think I will need to go to a 1/4" line to better fit into the auto release cleat. So It's a mixed bag. I'm still looking into the idea of adding a metal strip to the bottom of the rudder to give it less buoyancy and make it easier to haul down and protect the bottom of the rudder. I would keep just enough positive buoyancy so the rudder would float. That means I have to test the amount of weight to add. Do the projects ever end? (I hope not!) Brigg
I have mixed feelings about the results. The cleat went on fine. I drilled and tapped new holes in the aluminum base of the tiller and all went together very easily. (see photo). Then I read an article here by Rob Mazza, the chief design engineer at Hunter, titled "A word from the designer" about rudder balance. Most of the article didn't apply to the 260 since the rudder housing has been redesigned with a stop at the proper angle, but his last paragraph talks about not using the cleat to hold the rudder in the down position. He says you should only use the "wing nut" to tighten the rudder clamp (housing) to hold the rudder down. Then if you strike something the rudder can swing up. That's assuming you don't have the wing nut and clamp so tight nothing can give. He says the cleat should only be used to hold the rudder in the up position. So I'm still evaluating if I think the auto release cleat is an un-necessary extra. It also means I don't have use of the deck cleat to hold the rudder in the up position while trailering. However, you can pin the rudder in the up position. If I keep the cleat I think I will need to go to a 1/4" line to better fit into the auto release cleat. So It's a mixed bag. I'm still looking into the idea of adding a metal strip to the bottom of the rudder to give it less buoyancy and make it easier to haul down and protect the bottom of the rudder. I would keep just enough positive buoyancy so the rudder would float. That means I have to test the amount of weight to add. Do the projects ever end? (I hope not!) Brigg
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sugggestion
You need to learn what angle is best for the rudder to be up when bringing onto the trailer. I would loosen the wing nut all the way on the housing and simply tie the down line on the cleat. Suggest marking the line so you know where to tie it onto the cleat on a regular basis. Then you do not need the auto release cleat. I have looked into it some time back and felt it would not work. H 260 too big. Crazy Dave Condon
You need to learn what angle is best for the rudder to be up when bringing onto the trailer. I would loosen the wing nut all the way on the housing and simply tie the down line on the cleat. Suggest marking the line so you know where to tie it onto the cleat on a regular basis. Then you do not need the auto release cleat. I have looked into it some time back and felt it would not work. H 260 too big. Crazy Dave Condon
Rudder usually horz. for loading on trailer
This hopefully was a rare occasion where I needed all the control I could get to overcome the freeboard and had to leave the rudder down. My '98 does not have a wingnut so I usually tie the rudder off in the down position and pin it in the up position for trailering. I sail weekly all year long and store it on the trailer so I deal with rudder positioning a lot. This is in my mind the primary inconvenience in the whole design. Being a 15 year catamaran guy I know that break-away type rudders work in significantly more brutal conditions than I will ever put this beauty through! I can design and machine the system myself. I really wanted to buy off the shelf so I can spend more time on the water! Let me know if these little devices work or if we need to build a better one. Thanks!
This hopefully was a rare occasion where I needed all the control I could get to overcome the freeboard and had to leave the rudder down. My '98 does not have a wingnut so I usually tie the rudder off in the down position and pin it in the up position for trailering. I sail weekly all year long and store it on the trailer so I deal with rudder positioning a lot. This is in my mind the primary inconvenience in the whole design. Being a 15 year catamaran guy I know that break-away type rudders work in significantly more brutal conditions than I will ever put this beauty through! I can design and machine the system myself. I really wanted to buy off the shelf so I can spend more time on the water! Let me know if these little devices work or if we need to build a better one. Thanks!
Catamaran style
Having also raced cats for about a dozen years, I agree that Hunter could spend a little time being educated by some of the Cat manufactures, that do this very well. The auto release seems to have a lot of merit for this system, although the somewhat crude spring system I use, has worked flawlessly for 5 years. Tying the rudder off at a certain angle assumes the same depth at every landing and doesn't account for supprises and shear pins need to be replaced. I would think those of you with high flotation rudders, would appreciate the addition of enough metal to make the rudder float low in the water. My rudder, which is the more dense style, seems easy to pull down, and I don't feel like it's too heavy to reach down and lift for pinning. I've heard of some people using a boat hook to lift it out of the water also. Jeff Peltier
Having also raced cats for about a dozen years, I agree that Hunter could spend a little time being educated by some of the Cat manufactures, that do this very well. The auto release seems to have a lot of merit for this system, although the somewhat crude spring system I use, has worked flawlessly for 5 years. Tying the rudder off at a certain angle assumes the same depth at every landing and doesn't account for supprises and shear pins need to be replaced. I would think those of you with high flotation rudders, would appreciate the addition of enough metal to make the rudder float low in the water. My rudder, which is the more dense style, seems easy to pull down, and I don't feel like it's too heavy to reach down and lift for pinning. I've heard of some people using a boat hook to lift it out of the water also. Jeff Peltier
Wing nut works
Douglas, the wing nut clamp works well for holding the rudder in the down position. It should be fairly simple to add the bar on the nut and the stops on the bolt head end (see picture). I suggest if you have the stops added, put them on the motor mount side. This makes the nut and bar easier to access. Having the rudder able to slide in the housing when it strikes something is much preferable to tieing it down in a cleat. You just have to figure how tight to bolt it down. My big problem has always been getting the rudder down. Hunter went to a foam core rudder, they say, because owners were complaining of the trouble to pull it up. I think a neutral, or slightly buoyant rudder would be best. So I'm working on a plan to add a metal tip at the bottom to make it less buoyant. When I get some figures on the amount of weight needed I'll post it here. Brigg
Douglas, the wing nut clamp works well for holding the rudder in the down position. It should be fairly simple to add the bar on the nut and the stops on the bolt head end (see picture). I suggest if you have the stops added, put them on the motor mount side. This makes the nut and bar easier to access. Having the rudder able to slide in the housing when it strikes something is much preferable to tieing it down in a cleat. You just have to figure how tight to bolt it down. My big problem has always been getting the rudder down. Hunter went to a foam core rudder, they say, because owners were complaining of the trouble to pull it up. I think a neutral, or slightly buoyant rudder would be best. So I'm working on a plan to add a metal tip at the bottom to make it less buoyant. When I get some figures on the amount of weight needed I'll post it here. Brigg
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Have you tried bobbing the rudder?
Mine is very easy to set in the down position. Two to three alternating pulls on my lengthened rudder rope and it drops right down from gravity plus the downward pull. Kind of a horizontal pendulum - the higher you pull it out of the water further down its momentum takes it below water.
Mine is very easy to set in the down position. Two to three alternating pulls on my lengthened rudder rope and it drops right down from gravity plus the downward pull. Kind of a horizontal pendulum - the higher you pull it out of the water further down its momentum takes it below water.
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