Bracket woes & stopping the engine

Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
Bracket.jpg
My 3QM30H did not come with a throttle bracket- I can make one easy enough (part 74 in the diagram). The end of the "SINGLE" cable (from the control lever part 57) has a slot in it- I plan to tighten that slot on the lever, at the right spot, to give me some idle to keep it running!?
My question is how do I stop this engine... just pull back on the lever till it stalls- (this is what I have been doing currently by hand- just letting the lever go and it springs back and stalls)- am I missing something? Again- I have just a single cable coming- no "STOP" cable- like in the diagram.
Oh yeah, can't buy any of these brackets anywhere- looked extensively...
(refer to pic please and thanks)
View attachment 135256
 
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Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
I might be at my boat later today. I will take a picture of my 2QM20 throttle area. Which might help you design your custom made bracket. I expect the setup will be very similar to your 3QM30.

If not today, will have wait until Friday or Saturday.

I don't recall exactly how mine was configured when I bought the boat. I think that between the throttle arm and the bracket was a small spring. It wasn't robust enough for the purpose, so I replaced it with one that is stiffer. The idea is that when I throttle back down to idle with the pedestal throttle lever, I can feel the spring's resistance. And then know not to "throttle down" any further. Further back equals stop engine due to complete shut-off the fuel supply. If I want to shut down, I pull the pedestal throttle lever past the spring's initial resistance all the way back, and hold it there until the engine stops due to fuel starvation. It takes just a few seconds for the engine to stop. I hold the throttle back for a few more seconds just to be sure that any residual rotation won't cause the engine to come alive again when the spring returns the lever to the idle position!

Your engine looks pristine. Is it connected yet to the pedestal?
 
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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
The engine was slightly used... the boatyard in Chicago said the wife of the owner didn't think it's shifted smooth enough and said the only way she would get on the boat as if they were re-powered it and put a different engine and gear in it... I have that gear hooked up and she shift ok for me... please send those pics if you can.
Thanks
 
Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
I thought marine diesels were shut down by cutting fuel supply in an electrical fashion with a stop button; modern engines by interrupting power to injectors, older models have a solenoid on fuel supply? So I'm not understanding the concept of a 'stop' cable (unless that cable pulls 'back' and closes the fuel supply vice the throttle cable 'opening' the fuel supply). Maybe I just answered my own question?
 
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Jun 8, 2004
1,065
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
You have got it right Rick - just close the governor (throttle) down until the engine stops. There was no STOP cable or other device in the original installation. Just moving the lever on my pedestal all the way down stops the engine. On my boat, the cable comes from the pedestal along the port side of the engine and loops around the front to the governor on the starboard side. Its probably 10 feet long. There is a sort of 'pinch bolt' arrangement on my cable to adjust the friction. I think you can get them here at the sailboatowners.com chandlery.
 
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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
The cable is real long... coming from behind the engine and it will push the throttle lever forward... which is more RPMs... is this like yours? Any guess to which way the engine lever will move on my pedestal... forward or down?

You have got it right Rick - just close the governor (throttle) down until the engine stops. There was no STOP cable or other device in the original installation. Just moving the lever on my pedestal all the way down stops the engine. On my boat, the cable comes from the pedestal along the port side of the engine and loops around the front to the governor on the starboard side. Its probably 10 feet long. There is a sort of 'pinch bolt' arrangement on my cable to adjust the friction. I think you can get them here at the sailboatowners.com chandlery.
 
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Sep 7, 2011
279
Hunter 1980 37c Illinois
Thanks... I like the top photo... didn't think of mounting it like it is in the pic... going to the boat tomorrow and looking again!!!
OK. Here are the pic's of my arrangement. Been working great for me for 10 years. I don't know what questions might be asked. So for now, now description.

Note that the my set-up isn't "stock".
 

sailnc

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Sep 6, 2014
30
Hunter 37C New Bern, NC
I like that idea (described by rardiH36) of a spring to provide resistance at the bottom end of the idle range. On our 37C there's no such resistance, and on a few occasions I've nearly killed the engine trying to idle down, during a tricky docking/wind situation for example. Bad time to lose power. May just have to try replicating what you have! Either that or some kind of separate kill lever or switch.
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,607
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I thought marine diesels were shut down by cutting fuel supply in an electrical fashion with a stop button; modern engines by interrupting power to injectors, older models have a solenoid on fuel supply? So I'm not understanding the concept of a 'stop' cable (unless that cable pulls 'back' and closes the fuel supply vice the throttle cable 'opening' the fuel supply). Maybe I just answered my own question?
My 2GM20 uses 2 different cables for throttle and fuel cut-off. My friends with newer boats use the electric fuel cut-off (turning the ignition key off).

I don't know for sure how the OP's engine is configured.

Greg
 
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