The hatches on my 1981 Hunter 37 Cutter are crazed by the sun and do not allow visibility. I want to replace the lexan material but do not know how to approach and accomplish the replacement procedure. I ran a blade around the perimeter but the lexan remains fast. Also, should I use clear silicon to bed the new lexan. The original seems to have a black rubber gasket seating the lexan. Suggestions and recomendations are most welcome. Tao *o
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Lexan and Silicone are tuff to seperate
I just replaced the plexi in my fixed windows. I had the option of just cutting the frames which I did and sucessfully put them back together. Try taking a router and cutting out the middle, and then see if you can get a dremel with a small wheel into the groove to get to the edge of the plexi/lexan. Once you break one portion free it will all come out, hopefully in one piece. The dremel takes a steady hand, and sometimes a lot of bandaids.
I just replaced the plexi in my fixed windows. I had the option of just cutting the frames which I did and sucessfully put them back together. Try taking a router and cutting out the middle, and then see if you can get a dremel with a small wheel into the groove to get to the edge of the plexi/lexan. Once you break one portion free it will all come out, hopefully in one piece. The dremel takes a steady hand, and sometimes a lot of bandaids.
Bomar Hatchs
Rebuilt my forward and midship hatchs a few years ago. I removed the upper portion of the hatch and covered the opening, makes it easier to work on. Use a razor knife to cut around the edge of the lexan then take a screwdriver and pry the lexan up. Place a small piece of wood between the aluminum frame and the screwdriver. The only way I found to clean the remaining sealant from the frame was a wire wheel. This is a great time to repaint the frames.
Rebuilt my forward and midship hatchs a few years ago. I removed the upper portion of the hatch and covered the opening, makes it easier to work on. Use a razor knife to cut around the edge of the lexan then take a screwdriver and pry the lexan up. Place a small piece of wood between the aluminum frame and the screwdriver. The only way I found to clean the remaining sealant from the frame was a wire wheel. This is a great time to repaint the frames.
Drill the holes oversize
The Lexan and the metal will expand and contract at very different rates. When drilling holes, make the diameter large enough to account for this. The sealant is probably not silicone. Life Seal is a polyureathane (sp?) that stays flexible. You can buy the same stuff at home depot sold as "roof flashing sealant." It is black and it MUST say Polyureathane on the tube.
The Lexan and the metal will expand and contract at very different rates. When drilling holes, make the diameter large enough to account for this. The sealant is probably not silicone. Life Seal is a polyureathane (sp?) that stays flexible. You can buy the same stuff at home depot sold as "roof flashing sealant." It is black and it MUST say Polyureathane on the tube.
Charles, What kind of paint did you use
when you repainted your hatches? We took our hatches off and ordered new lexan for them and want to repaint before we reinstall.
when you repainted your hatches? We took our hatches off and ordered new lexan for them and want to repaint before we reinstall.
OK everyone, here's some stuff I learned while
rebuilding all four of my Bomar hatches. First, the sealant used is silicone. Use nothing else. Ask anyone in the business. And no one knows the half life of silicone. The first silicone ever made is still intact. It doesn't break down in sunlight. Note that I didn't say the bonds formed are still intact, or that the stuff didn't burn up when an engine gasket got too hot. But if you follow the instruction on the tube and the instructions from the hatch manufacturer, it'll stick for at least a lifetime. The proof is in the conversation we are having here. It is centered around how to pry the lens away from the frame. After that's done try some of this stuff to get rid of the old silicone. http://www.amtexchemical.com/pages/1/page1.html?refresh=1067351487284 The link is a couple years old now and I haven't tried the stuff. I did it the hard way. As far as painting goes, I ordered up Awlgrip and then sent it back. I found a better way. I had mine powder coated. The shop even does the sand blasting needed to insure adhesion. The whole process cost less than the paint in the can. All the work I did to prep my hatches was not necessary. I just had to remove the lenses and take them apart. (hardware too) Then they look like this. The finish is good for at least 20 years. Kinda like silicone. Oh, be sure to order the correct gasket from Bomar. They are not all the same. It makes a difference when dogging them down. I have to change a couple of mine.
rebuilding all four of my Bomar hatches. First, the sealant used is silicone. Use nothing else. Ask anyone in the business. And no one knows the half life of silicone. The first silicone ever made is still intact. It doesn't break down in sunlight. Note that I didn't say the bonds formed are still intact, or that the stuff didn't burn up when an engine gasket got too hot. But if you follow the instruction on the tube and the instructions from the hatch manufacturer, it'll stick for at least a lifetime. The proof is in the conversation we are having here. It is centered around how to pry the lens away from the frame. After that's done try some of this stuff to get rid of the old silicone. http://www.amtexchemical.com/pages/1/page1.html?refresh=1067351487284 The link is a couple years old now and I haven't tried the stuff. I did it the hard way. As far as painting goes, I ordered up Awlgrip and then sent it back. I found a better way. I had mine powder coated. The shop even does the sand blasting needed to insure adhesion. The whole process cost less than the paint in the can. All the work I did to prep my hatches was not necessary. I just had to remove the lenses and take them apart. (hardware too) Then they look like this. The finish is good for at least 20 years. Kinda like silicone. Oh, be sure to order the correct gasket from Bomar. They are not all the same. It makes a difference when dogging them down. I have to change a couple of mine.
I checked my file of business cards and they
advertise as 'powder coaters'. I checked the yellow pages. There they were, under 'powder coating'.
advertise as 'powder coaters'. I checked the yellow pages. There they were, under 'powder coating'.
I'll be darned !
There is a listing for Powder Coating in the local yellow pages. I was told to call some auto repair places and none seemed to know what I was talking about. Fred, you are an absolute excyclopedia of resources!
There is a listing for Powder Coating in the local yellow pages. I was told to call some auto repair places and none seemed to know what I was talking about. Fred, you are an absolute excyclopedia of resources!
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