Our head bowl has recently begun to slowly fill with water. This happens even though the head has been left in the "pump dry" position and even when we are at the dock. We have been able to manage the problem by closing the inlet seacock after each use but this is not my preferred method of dealing with the problem. The head is original to the boat, vintage '84, and I am not sure of the brand. Time to install a new one or rebuild something (parts may be a problem) or is a vented loop a solution? If installing a new head is it as simple as a bolt-off bolt-on project? Thanks for the anticipated help.
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Replace, don't rebuild.
Don, When I changed the head on my '85 H31 it was a simple job of bolt off and bolt on. Everything matched up perfectly. Buying new was really the only option. By the time you took into account the cost of a rebuild kit (I believe it was $65, and it had to be special ordered,)a new head was only $30 or so more. At least then you were installing something you could get cost effective parts for if need be. Paul
Don, When I changed the head on my '85 H31 it was a simple job of bolt off and bolt on. Everything matched up perfectly. Buying new was really the only option. By the time you took into account the cost of a rebuild kit (I believe it was $65, and it had to be special ordered,)a new head was only $30 or so more. At least then you were installing something you could get cost effective parts for if need be. Paul
A vented loop is one part of the solution
But there are TWO problems at work here: 1. No vented loop in the intake. ALL toilets that are at or below the waterline require a vented loop in the intake to prevent water outside the boat from flooding the bowl (and potentially sinking the boat) if the seacock is open and the toilet is left in "wet" mode or the wet/dry valve fails. Vented loops are not included with toilets, they must be owner installed between the pump and bowl, to replace the short piece of hose the mfr used to connect 'em. Do NOT put it between the thru-hull and the pump...the toilet can't prime if it's there. The loop needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline *at any angle of heel,* which on most sailboats puts it about 4 FEET above the toilet. See the illustration in the toilet installation instructions here: http://www.jabsco.com/files/29090_29120_toilets_0406_data_sheet.pdf 2. The wet/dry valve (which isn't really a valve, but a little "gate" that the lever swings to block or unblock the flow of flush water) has failed...it isn't blocking the flush water inlet in the pump any more. That part is not included in the service kit, so rebuilding it wouldn't solve the problem even if it did make any economic sense. Contact Jabsco...depending on the age of your toilet, they may or may not replace it for no cost. If they don't, I have no idea what the price of that part is. If it were my boat, I'd replace the toilet. You can either spend $100-150 every year or two to keep replacing Jabscos...or you can spend about $250 ONCE for a toilet that'll work reliably for 20 years if it's just kept lubricated and rebuilt every 5-6 years for a cost of about $50...and that would be the Raritan PH II, which has been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. A bunch of people here have bought 'em, and they're all glad they did.
But there are TWO problems at work here: 1. No vented loop in the intake. ALL toilets that are at or below the waterline require a vented loop in the intake to prevent water outside the boat from flooding the bowl (and potentially sinking the boat) if the seacock is open and the toilet is left in "wet" mode or the wet/dry valve fails. Vented loops are not included with toilets, they must be owner installed between the pump and bowl, to replace the short piece of hose the mfr used to connect 'em. Do NOT put it between the thru-hull and the pump...the toilet can't prime if it's there. The loop needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline *at any angle of heel,* which on most sailboats puts it about 4 FEET above the toilet. See the illustration in the toilet installation instructions here: http://www.jabsco.com/files/29090_29120_toilets_0406_data_sheet.pdf 2. The wet/dry valve (which isn't really a valve, but a little "gate" that the lever swings to block or unblock the flow of flush water) has failed...it isn't blocking the flush water inlet in the pump any more. That part is not included in the service kit, so rebuilding it wouldn't solve the problem even if it did make any economic sense. Contact Jabsco...depending on the age of your toilet, they may or may not replace it for no cost. If they don't, I have no idea what the price of that part is. If it were my boat, I'd replace the toilet. You can either spend $100-150 every year or two to keep replacing Jabscos...or you can spend about $250 ONCE for a toilet that'll work reliably for 20 years if it's just kept lubricated and rebuilt every 5-6 years for a cost of about $50...and that would be the Raritan PH II, which has been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. A bunch of people here have bought 'em, and they're all glad they did.
For what it's worth...
I close my seacock between uses just because. It's cheap insurance and a good habit for all your seacocks. IMHO
I close my seacock between uses just because. It's cheap insurance and a good habit for all your seacocks. IMHO
Indeed it is...but--
People are fallible, so if you don't have a vented loop in your head intake, add one. 'Cuz it's cheap insurance just in case you or a guest forgets to close the seacock.
People are fallible, so if you don't have a vented loop in your head intake, add one. 'Cuz it's cheap insurance just in case you or a guest forgets to close the seacock.
Thanks
Thanks for the insight and suggestions. Looks like a new head with vented loop are called for, for both comfort and safety.
Thanks for the insight and suggestions. Looks like a new head with vented loop are called for, for both comfort and safety.
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