Hi, I have a 1992 Hunter 33.5 and when I did my routine check on the running lights I noticed that the stern light is OK but the bow red and green lights are both out. Upon investigation I found that: 1) Electrical panel connections are OK 2) Bow light connections are OK 3) Bulbs are OK 4) Both the red and green lights run off one set of wires that are fed through the port bow rail, down to the space between the deck and liner, and then back to the electrical panel in the main cabin. 5) Both wires seem to be pinched between the inner liner and the hull, and one was sheared through (it actually fell down) -- thus no power to the running lights The problem is how to feed a new wire to the lights. My initial idea was to use the remaining wire as a guide to pull through two new wires but because it is pinched it won't budge. Access is very difficult both from the top as well as from the small access port in the front cabin. Any suggestions most welcome! Thanks Dan Aquila
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new route for wires
Nothing says you can't change the route - doesn't sound like current set up is working well anyway... Can you run behind the settees/bunks or under...?
Nothing says you can't change the route - doesn't sound like current set up is working well anyway... Can you run behind the settees/bunks or under...?
The problem is ....
Hi Debra, Thanks for your response The main problem is feeding the new wires from the front cabin up through the deck and to the lights on the bow rail. The wires from the electrical panel to the cabin are OK Its tricky since the cabin roof is a liner, and there's also the anchor well in the way. Re-routing by drilling a new hole in the deck could expose the boat to leaks also... Exposed wires on deck by the roller furling and mooring cleats could easily get tangled. Regards,
Hi Debra, Thanks for your response The main problem is feeding the new wires from the front cabin up through the deck and to the lights on the bow rail. The wires from the electrical panel to the cabin are OK Its tricky since the cabin roof is a liner, and there's also the anchor well in the way. Re-routing by drilling a new hole in the deck could expose the boat to leaks also... Exposed wires on deck by the roller furling and mooring cleats could easily get tangled. Regards,
Dan.. Sounds like a sounding wire may help
Whats the distance from the hole in the rail to the point where you can get to the wires below deck? Perhapse you could send a sounding wire down the hole in the rail. If it dosn't get hung up on route it could emerge at a point where you could grab below deck. This could then be used to pull fresh wire back up through the rail. The type of wire I am thinking about is small diameter (i.e. 1/64") stiff but still reletively flexible "Spring" steel wire that can be found in Hobby shops that that supply flight linkage for Model RC airplanes etc. It may in some locations called piano wire. Its usually sold in 3 foot lengths in a variety of diameters. Perhapse several lengths could be binded together to get the length you need. wfe
Whats the distance from the hole in the rail to the point where you can get to the wires below deck? Perhapse you could send a sounding wire down the hole in the rail. If it dosn't get hung up on route it could emerge at a point where you could grab below deck. This could then be used to pull fresh wire back up through the rail. The type of wire I am thinking about is small diameter (i.e. 1/64") stiff but still reletively flexible "Spring" steel wire that can be found in Hobby shops that that supply flight linkage for Model RC airplanes etc. It may in some locations called piano wire. Its usually sold in 3 foot lengths in a variety of diameters. Perhapse several lengths could be binded together to get the length you need. wfe
I had the same problem
On my 28.5. The wires frayed/broke at the point where they entered the bow rail. I tried to use the existing wire to pull a string through the bow rail, but the wires got stuck somewhere inside the bow rail and broke. I tried a fish tape (snake) but I could not get one 90 degree bend to save my ship. So... Since I did not want to have to remove the bow rail to snake new wire, I spliced new marine grade wire below decks, fed the wire through the same deck hole by carefully soldering the old to the new and pulling through the deck. Then I simply wrapped the wire around the bow rail and tie-wrapped it down with nylon tie-wraps. No problems with chaffe thus far from the roller furling or other bow gear. And of course the light is working fine. The exposed wire may not last upteen seasons, but it is now easily replaceable when the time comes. So far, this repair has held up 3 seasons. The wire looks ok, tie-wraps still secure. If you absolutely have to have the wires inside the bow rail, you might be forced to remove the rail to successfully snake new wire. If the thru-deck joint won't allow you to pass through new wire, then I don't see how you have a choice but to drill through the deck. Just fill the hole with 3m 4200 and add it to your to-be-checked list each season for inspection. In my case, even though the wire goes behind the cabin ceiling liner, it comes out a hole in the deck. Whether that's original or not I can't say. Bottom line is that I already had a small hole in the deck for the wires, and I was able to re-use that hole.
On my 28.5. The wires frayed/broke at the point where they entered the bow rail. I tried to use the existing wire to pull a string through the bow rail, but the wires got stuck somewhere inside the bow rail and broke. I tried a fish tape (snake) but I could not get one 90 degree bend to save my ship. So... Since I did not want to have to remove the bow rail to snake new wire, I spliced new marine grade wire below decks, fed the wire through the same deck hole by carefully soldering the old to the new and pulling through the deck. Then I simply wrapped the wire around the bow rail and tie-wrapped it down with nylon tie-wraps. No problems with chaffe thus far from the roller furling or other bow gear. And of course the light is working fine. The exposed wire may not last upteen seasons, but it is now easily replaceable when the time comes. So far, this repair has held up 3 seasons. The wire looks ok, tie-wraps still secure. If you absolutely have to have the wires inside the bow rail, you might be forced to remove the rail to successfully snake new wire. If the thru-deck joint won't allow you to pass through new wire, then I don't see how you have a choice but to drill through the deck. Just fill the hole with 3m 4200 and add it to your to-be-checked list each season for inspection. In my case, even though the wire goes behind the cabin ceiling liner, it comes out a hole in the deck. Whether that's original or not I can't say. Bottom line is that I already had a small hole in the deck for the wires, and I was able to re-use that hole.
Making Progress
OK some progress to report. I was able to solder two new wires onto the one exisiting good wire, and begin to pull through. The soldered ends did get stuck so I cut and tried to pull through the other end. The soldered connection got stuck there too. So I went back to the first end pulling out from the cabin to the bow rail. I made a very small solder and greased the wire with petroleum jelly. This time it went a little farther but still getting stuck. I got a flat roof tile pry bar from Ace hardware which I think I can use to relieve some pressure on the wire, and also cut out some of the insulation material that seems to be in the way. I stopped before moving on and think I'll ask my wife for some help pulling it thorugh. If the wire still gets stuck I might try a smaller guage wire (14) or pull through two stands of pianno wire and then one wire at a time. Thanks for all the advise. Picture of the problem attached. Dan
OK some progress to report. I was able to solder two new wires onto the one exisiting good wire, and begin to pull through. The soldered ends did get stuck so I cut and tried to pull through the other end. The soldered connection got stuck there too. So I went back to the first end pulling out from the cabin to the bow rail. I made a very small solder and greased the wire with petroleum jelly. This time it went a little farther but still getting stuck. I got a flat roof tile pry bar from Ace hardware which I think I can use to relieve some pressure on the wire, and also cut out some of the insulation material that seems to be in the way. I stopped before moving on and think I'll ask my wife for some help pulling it thorugh. If the wire still gets stuck I might try a smaller guage wire (14) or pull through two stands of pianno wire and then one wire at a time. Thanks for all the advise. Picture of the problem attached. Dan
Attachments
My wire was 18 ga.
14 ga is pretty thick wire. Your boat is bigger than mine, but I can't imagine why you would have to use 14ga, which can be loaded upto 15 amps. That would be some powerfull bow light! 18ga should do, and I think you could *probably* get by with 22 ga. (the higher the gauge#, the smaller the wire diameter). Mike
14 ga is pretty thick wire. Your boat is bigger than mine, but I can't imagine why you would have to use 14ga, which can be loaded upto 15 amps. That would be some powerfull bow light! 18ga should do, and I think you could *probably* get by with 22 ga. (the higher the gauge#, the smaller the wire diameter). Mike
The problem is just the last few feet...
The wires leading to the front cabin are OK, so there is no need to change the route. Its just the last bit that is giving me the problem, and changing the route here would require a new path through the deck which would be complicated and problmatic, so I will try to avoid if at all possible.
The wires leading to the front cabin are OK, so there is no need to change the route. Its just the last bit that is giving me the problem, and changing the route here would require a new path through the deck which would be complicated and problmatic, so I will try to avoid if at all possible.
Good point Mike
I will probably shift to smaller guage wire, the total load should not exceed 4 amps. But I'm going to try one more "trick" first. I'll pull down on my backstay adjuster hoping that the added pull on the mast will flex the deck joint just enough to nudge past the blockage. I don't expect much flex but a fraction of a mm might just do it.
I will probably shift to smaller guage wire, the total load should not exceed 4 amps. But I'm going to try one more "trick" first. I'll pull down on my backstay adjuster hoping that the added pull on the mast will flex the deck joint just enough to nudge past the blockage. I don't expect much flex but a fraction of a mm might just do it.
Success!
OK here's how I did it. I bought two 25ft rolls of No#3 hanging wire ate Ace hardware. I carefully soldered on to the remaining wire and greased with Petroleum jelly. I also tightned the backstay adjuster a little. With only one wire, it pulled through!. I then soldered the second hanging wire to the first, and pulled that through as well. I separated the hanging wires and then attached one 12 guage wire, greased, and was able to pull that through. Now the big challenge was the pull through the second hanging wire with the second 12 guage. First attempt didn't work. I then re-soldered taking a few strands out from each end to make connection slightly smaller. This time it worked and I now have two good 12 guage wires to work with. Hooked it all up and it workds like a charm. I wish Hunter has installed a little conduit though.... Thanks for all the help! Dan
OK here's how I did it. I bought two 25ft rolls of No#3 hanging wire ate Ace hardware. I carefully soldered on to the remaining wire and greased with Petroleum jelly. I also tightned the backstay adjuster a little. With only one wire, it pulled through!. I then soldered the second hanging wire to the first, and pulled that through as well. I separated the hanging wires and then attached one 12 guage wire, greased, and was able to pull that through. Now the big challenge was the pull through the second hanging wire with the second 12 guage. First attempt didn't work. I then re-soldered taking a few strands out from each end to make connection slightly smaller. This time it worked and I now have two good 12 guage wires to work with. Hooked it all up and it workds like a charm. I wish Hunter has installed a little conduit though.... Thanks for all the help! Dan
Good Inovative Ideas!
You done good, Dan! Thanks for your detailed explaination of how you did it - looks like some really good inovative ideas to get that wire through. For what it's worth, electricians use a cable lube to pull wires, too, but I don't know how it compares to petroleum jelly. With regard to conduits, I agree with you. For a slight additional cost it would have been much easier to do this repair. But, a penny here, penny there, and pretty soon you're talking real money.
You done good, Dan! Thanks for your detailed explaination of how you did it - looks like some really good inovative ideas to get that wire through. For what it's worth, electricians use a cable lube to pull wires, too, but I don't know how it compares to petroleum jelly. With regard to conduits, I agree with you. For a slight additional cost it would have been much easier to do this repair. But, a penny here, penny there, and pretty soon you're talking real money.
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