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Here is what I did
Look on the photo Form under Bahamas 260 improvements might give you an idea or two. John Baums Rush
Look on the photo Form under Bahamas 260 improvements might give you an idea or two. John Baums Rush
Check with hunter...
My boat came with the Bow roller already installed, but I think you can purchase it from Hunter and install it yourself (or if you haven't taken delivery, yet, have them add it). I think they imbed in to the fiberglass an aluminum backing plate under the channel that extends from the anchor well (verify with Hunter). If so, then you can drill and tap the backing plate to attach your roller to. Fair winds, Tom
My boat came with the Bow roller already installed, but I think you can purchase it from Hunter and install it yourself (or if you haven't taken delivery, yet, have them add it). I think they imbed in to the fiberglass an aluminum backing plate under the channel that extends from the anchor well (verify with Hunter). If so, then you can drill and tap the backing plate to attach your roller to. Fair winds, Tom
Anchor Roller for 260
Kevin, there is a backing plate in the deck molding already. I have a AR-3 roller assembly from West marine which was added by my dealer as part of the purchase package. After eyeballing it for a year I don't believe it extends forward enough to keep me from dinging the bow when I recover the anchor. I plan on replacing it with a URM-2 roller assembly which has the same channel width but is 5" longer. In any case , for your installation of the new roller assembly, you will need to drill and tap the holes using the holes in the roller assembly as a guide. Fair winds, Steve Kamp
Kevin, there is a backing plate in the deck molding already. I have a AR-3 roller assembly from West marine which was added by my dealer as part of the purchase package. After eyeballing it for a year I don't believe it extends forward enough to keep me from dinging the bow when I recover the anchor. I plan on replacing it with a URM-2 roller assembly which has the same channel width but is 5" longer. In any case , for your installation of the new roller assembly, you will need to drill and tap the holes using the holes in the roller assembly as a guide. Fair winds, Steve Kamp
Thanks
Steve, that is exactly the reason I didn't order the factory roller and the URM-2 looks like it will clear the rub rail. So I'll have to buy a tap set for this project! Kevin
Steve, that is exactly the reason I didn't order the factory roller and the URM-2 looks like it will clear the rub rail. So I'll have to buy a tap set for this project! Kevin
bow rollers
There are two or three manufacturers for those suckers. First, go thru west marine as the price is competitive. The only thing you have to make sure it will fit the sleeve or insert width wise. When installing, remember that there is a large aluminm plate encapsulated in the fiberglass and all you have to do is pre drill and tap for threads. Remember to use a bit two sizes small than the bolt width. You will be using no smaller than a 1/4-20 on this. Make sure the bow roller is about 3-4 inches out from the insert area to be more effective. The one from Hunter Marine in my mind is not long enough. Oh boy, I bet I will get a piece of mind from Hunter Customer Service but thats ok as they know I can be crazy. Ha!
There are two or three manufacturers for those suckers. First, go thru west marine as the price is competitive. The only thing you have to make sure it will fit the sleeve or insert width wise. When installing, remember that there is a large aluminm plate encapsulated in the fiberglass and all you have to do is pre drill and tap for threads. Remember to use a bit two sizes small than the bolt width. You will be using no smaller than a 1/4-20 on this. Make sure the bow roller is about 3-4 inches out from the insert area to be more effective. The one from Hunter Marine in my mind is not long enough. Oh boy, I bet I will get a piece of mind from Hunter Customer Service but thats ok as they know I can be crazy. Ha!
Give 'em hell -
they deserve it. It costs about the same for a decent length roller but Hunter stuck me $135 for a bow roller that doesn't cut it. Thanks a lot. Sorry for the rant but they've had enough practice now they should get it right.
they deserve it. It costs about the same for a decent length roller but Hunter stuck me $135 for a bow roller that doesn't cut it. Thanks a lot. Sorry for the rant but they've had enough practice now they should get it right.
I bought Mine at a Local Chandlery
Paid about a third less than it was at West Marine, shop around. It still does not go out quite far enough on mine to not touch the hull a little. Once it is up I turn the anchor sideways it is fine.
Paid about a third less than it was at West Marine, shop around. It still does not go out quite far enough on mine to not touch the hull a little. Once it is up I turn the anchor sideways it is fine.
im making a plank w/ roller for my h23
probably could live a long time without a roller on this small a boat/anchor but hey.....its going to be nice. i bought an ar2 small anchor roller from west and a 1"x3-1/2"x24" oak plank from lowes. finished the plank with cetol (teak color) and 3 coats of cetol tgl clear over that. will mount the roller on the plank and plank to the right anchor locker door when the roller gets here. (hopefully mon or tue) plank will extend past the bow about 4"-6" and the roller a couple beyoud that. dimensions aren't cut in stone yet. i'll just have to look at it all when the roller gets here. i will loose the use of the right anchor locker door but the left opens up plenty wide to get the anchor and rode in and out of. i can post a pic if anyone is interested.
probably could live a long time without a roller on this small a boat/anchor but hey.....its going to be nice. i bought an ar2 small anchor roller from west and a 1"x3-1/2"x24" oak plank from lowes. finished the plank with cetol (teak color) and 3 coats of cetol tgl clear over that. will mount the roller on the plank and plank to the right anchor locker door when the roller gets here. (hopefully mon or tue) plank will extend past the bow about 4"-6" and the roller a couple beyoud that. dimensions aren't cut in stone yet. i'll just have to look at it all when the roller gets here. i will loose the use of the right anchor locker door but the left opens up plenty wide to get the anchor and rode in and out of. i can post a pic if anyone is interested.
Please post pics and other info
William, Let us know how that works out. I was just looking at our boat yesterday and was trying to figure out how to mount an anchor roller on it as we plan on spending more nights out this summer and I don't want the rode to rub on the boat all the time plus being able to bring in the anchor in better with out hitting the boat. Rob Morton S/V Euphoria
William, Let us know how that works out. I was just looking at our boat yesterday and was trying to figure out how to mount an anchor roller on it as we plan on spending more nights out this summer and I don't want the rode to rub on the boat all the time plus being able to bring in the anchor in better with out hitting the boat. Rob Morton S/V Euphoria
bow plank/roller in process (pic)
well, the plank/roller project is obviously "in process" but it shouldn't take allot of imagination so see where i'm going with this...
well, the plank/roller project is obviously "in process" but it shouldn't take allot of imagination so see where i'm going with this...
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roller installed on plank
the project continues. if there isn't too much frost on the deck tomorrow i'll get the plank mounted. 2 things i have yet to address are: 1) i need a way to belay the chain after the anchor has been brought in....just till i can stow things. anyone know what that handy little anchor chain cleat thing is called? that "fork" that you drop the chain into and it holds it. 2) the angle to the anchor locker cleat might not be optimum. (no "might" not actually. it is NOT optimum, but probably acceptable for a boat that will never be anchored in a hurricane).
the project continues. if there isn't too much frost on the deck tomorrow i'll get the plank mounted. 2 things i have yet to address are: 1) i need a way to belay the chain after the anchor has been brought in....just till i can stow things. anyone know what that handy little anchor chain cleat thing is called? that "fork" that you drop the chain into and it holds it. 2) the angle to the anchor locker cleat might not be optimum. (no "might" not actually. it is NOT optimum, but probably acceptable for a boat that will never be anchored in a hurricane).
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