First time ever posting anything on a forum. Have spent many hours reading posts and replies, what a great site. Purchased my Hunter 23.5 just last fall. Was able to take it out for one overnighter (it was great) before putting it away for winter here in snowy Canada. I have always been hesitant to use to much force when winching boat onto trailer. Is the Bow eye and it's mounting strong enough to winch the boat up real snug against the rubber stopper block? I try to get the trailer deep enough into the water to limit the force when winching boat onto trailer. Most often I get it snugged up but then when I start to pull boat out and up the launching ramp the boat settles back a few inches. My boat is a 94 Hunter 23.5 on a factory Hunter trailer. Thanks for help!
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Liquid Dish Soap
I think we all have experienced the problem you describe. I know I have had difficulty snugging the bow to the V-rubber block many times. Several years ago I picked up a tip (probably on this forum) to liberally squirt liquid dish washing soap on the bunk boards just before backing the trailer into the water to retrieve the boat. It has been a minor miracle. Now I get the boat as far forward as possible on the launch ramp. Then immediately after pulling onto dry land, I crank the boat the rest of the way. The liquid soap acts as a lubricant to allow relatively easy sliding of the hull on the bunks. And, the bonus is in the fact that the soap helps to clean the area of the hull resting on the bunks.
I think we all have experienced the problem you describe. I know I have had difficulty snugging the bow to the V-rubber block many times. Several years ago I picked up a tip (probably on this forum) to liberally squirt liquid dish washing soap on the bunk boards just before backing the trailer into the water to retrieve the boat. It has been a minor miracle. Now I get the boat as far forward as possible on the launch ramp. Then immediately after pulling onto dry land, I crank the boat the rest of the way. The liquid soap acts as a lubricant to allow relatively easy sliding of the hull on the bunks. And, the bonus is in the fact that the soap helps to clean the area of the hull resting on the bunks.
Soap or stomp
Dale's idea sounds pretty good. Just bought my '87 h23 in September and when the previous owner pulled it out of the water -- first time for him, I believe -- seemingly knowledgable helpers said there wasn't a 23 that could be pulled up snug. They said to use the MacGregor Stomp. Pull the boat out of the water and drive to a spot where you're going downhill a little bit and firmly apply the brakes. That's what he did and the boat scooted up very nicely. I haven't had it out of the water myself yet, so I'm speaking from observation, not experience.
Dale's idea sounds pretty good. Just bought my '87 h23 in September and when the previous owner pulled it out of the water -- first time for him, I believe -- seemingly knowledgable helpers said there wasn't a 23 that could be pulled up snug. They said to use the MacGregor Stomp. Pull the boat out of the water and drive to a spot where you're going downhill a little bit and firmly apply the brakes. That's what he did and the boat scooted up very nicely. I haven't had it out of the water myself yet, so I'm speaking from observation, not experience.
I’d be hesitant about introducing liquid soap into
our lake. Some kids threw several bars of soap some years ago and killed a lot of our fish.
our lake. Some kids threw several bars of soap some years ago and killed a lot of our fish.
I winch mine
I have a 1994 23.5 that I bought new. I've always just winched it up tight against the bow roller after pulling from the water. The bow eye has held up fine.
I have a 1994 23.5 that I bought new. I've always just winched it up tight against the bow roller after pulling from the water. The bow eye has held up fine.
First Big Thing I Did Was To
Make sure the winch strap exits over the top of the winch. When I bought mine the strap came off the bottom of the winch rather than the top. Made a big difference moving it up a couple of inches. I also have used the soap with great succes. Not much if any goes into the water at all. Apply it to the bunks when the boat goes in the water and the soap will dry pretty much by the time you turn around to pull out. Try to use soap vs detergent. I guess you could use bar soap and rub it on also. As for the bow eye there is a lot of fiberglass up ther and it is a pretty hefty peice of metal. I think you could almost hoist the boat in the air with it. Just make sure it stays straight and you should have no problem.
Make sure the winch strap exits over the top of the winch. When I bought mine the strap came off the bottom of the winch rather than the top. Made a big difference moving it up a couple of inches. I also have used the soap with great succes. Not much if any goes into the water at all. Apply it to the bunks when the boat goes in the water and the soap will dry pretty much by the time you turn around to pull out. Try to use soap vs detergent. I guess you could use bar soap and rub it on also. As for the bow eye there is a lot of fiberglass up ther and it is a pretty hefty peice of metal. I think you could almost hoist the boat in the air with it. Just make sure it stays straight and you should have no problem.
Swap out the strap for a cable *!
I read in the archives where a guy did an experiment with he and his friend's boat that were identical (I think they might have been 260's). Anyway, one trailer had a nylon strap and the other had just switched to a galvanized steel cable. They both retrieved their boats and the trailer with the nylon strap did not pull the boat snug to the stopper block. The steel cable did. The theory is that the nylon strap will continually stretch and there will always be some slack in the strap from being rolled up on itself and compressing. The cable will not stretch if you install it on the winch properly. I have recently bought a cable and will be installing it next month. So at this point there is some theory/speculation going on on my part. I do like the idea of squirting a little soap on the boards. Also, there was a post where one gentleman re-enforced his bow eye by putting a steel pipe behind the bow eye on the inside of the bow which I plan to do.
I read in the archives where a guy did an experiment with he and his friend's boat that were identical (I think they might have been 260's). Anyway, one trailer had a nylon strap and the other had just switched to a galvanized steel cable. They both retrieved their boats and the trailer with the nylon strap did not pull the boat snug to the stopper block. The steel cable did. The theory is that the nylon strap will continually stretch and there will always be some slack in the strap from being rolled up on itself and compressing. The cable will not stretch if you install it on the winch properly. I have recently bought a cable and will be installing it next month. So at this point there is some theory/speculation going on on my part. I do like the idea of squirting a little soap on the boards. Also, there was a post where one gentleman re-enforced his bow eye by putting a steel pipe behind the bow eye on the inside of the bow which I plan to do.
Boweye reinforcement
Jonathan, you are right about the steel cable not stretching like the nylon strap. I have attached a drawing of putting a pipe inside the bow to reinforce the bow eye. I now have this on my h23 and my h27. Both of which work like a champ in strengthening this area. Test different diameter pipes to find one that best matches the inside contour of your bow. Ward
Jonathan, you are right about the steel cable not stretching like the nylon strap. I have attached a drawing of putting a pipe inside the bow to reinforce the bow eye. I now have this on my h23 and my h27. Both of which work like a champ in strengthening this area. Test different diameter pipes to find one that best matches the inside contour of your bow. Ward
Attachments
Thanks
Thanks guys for your feedback. I knew you would have the answers. Has anyone tried the plastic (or something like that) strips on the bunks to allow the boat to slide easily?
Thanks guys for your feedback. I knew you would have the answers. Has anyone tried the plastic (or something like that) strips on the bunks to allow the boat to slide easily?
Double Dip
I have the same issue with my H26. When I need to ensure that the bow of the boat is secure against the rubber stop, I pull the boat out of the water allowing it to slide back a few inches. I dump the water ballast, then redip the boat. It is much easier to get the boat up closer to the winch with the ballast empty. When I pull the boat up the second time, it stays right where it is.
I have the same issue with my H26. When I need to ensure that the bow of the boat is secure against the rubber stop, I pull the boat out of the water allowing it to slide back a few inches. I dump the water ballast, then redip the boat. It is much easier to get the boat up closer to the winch with the ballast empty. When I pull the boat up the second time, it stays right where it is.
Suggestions against soap and stomp
I've stomped, and welded my trailer to repair stress cracks. Liquid soap has been used to dissipate oil slicks from fuel spills, and environmentalists claim it is worse than the oil. I pull mine out, winch, and after a few miles winch again for the road vibration and normal breaking ease the boat forward under the cable tension. I agree with Rick in estimating the strenght of that eye, and Ward's design would remove all doubt. Mark Major s/v Lesismor 86H23
I've stomped, and welded my trailer to repair stress cracks. Liquid soap has been used to dissipate oil slicks from fuel spills, and environmentalists claim it is worse than the oil. I pull mine out, winch, and after a few miles winch again for the road vibration and normal breaking ease the boat forward under the cable tension. I agree with Rick in estimating the strenght of that eye, and Ward's design would remove all doubt. Mark Major s/v Lesismor 86H23
bow eyes and trailers
I have a 240 and the bow eye pulled loose after five years. Looked here for suggestions and found one that was a good suggestion of using galvanized pipe to put the bow eye thru inside the bow. worked great but the size was off. needed to be 3/4" x 15". You should not have a problem. I have been towing my boat which is heavier than yours. I usually try to get it on the trailer as far as possible then winch it the last few inches. Hunter sent me a new ss bow eye at no charge when I stripped the threads on the one I had. It had been cross threaded at the factory.
I have a 240 and the bow eye pulled loose after five years. Looked here for suggestions and found one that was a good suggestion of using galvanized pipe to put the bow eye thru inside the bow. worked great but the size was off. needed to be 3/4" x 15". You should not have a problem. I have been towing my boat which is heavier than yours. I usually try to get it on the trailer as far as possible then winch it the last few inches. Hunter sent me a new ss bow eye at no charge when I stripped the threads on the one I had. It had been cross threaded at the factory.
REINFORCEMENT
I have a 240 and the bow eye pulled loose after five years. Looked here for suggestions and found one that was a good suggestion of using galvanized pipe to put the bow eye thru inside the bow. worked great but the size was off. needed to be 3/4" x 15". You should not have a problem. I have been towing my boat which is heavier than yours. I usually try to get it on the trailer as far as possible then winch it the last few inches. Hunter sent me a new ss bow eye at no charge when I stripped the threads on the one I had. It had been cross threaded at the factory.
I have a 240 and the bow eye pulled loose after five years. Looked here for suggestions and found one that was a good suggestion of using galvanized pipe to put the bow eye thru inside the bow. worked great but the size was off. needed to be 3/4" x 15". You should not have a problem. I have been towing my boat which is heavier than yours. I usually try to get it on the trailer as far as possible then winch it the last few inches. Hunter sent me a new ss bow eye at no charge when I stripped the threads on the one I had. It had been cross threaded at the factory.
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