Bow cleats

[Nom De Guerre]

The cleats on the bow of my Hunter 28.5 are mounted to the deck about 6 inches inboard of the toe rail on either side. There are chocks on risers to help lead the lines over the toe rail.





This arrangement doesn't work well for spring lines. Has anyone moved the cleats outboard to the toe rail itself? Do you think the toe rail is strong enough to support this use even if you haven't? Are there any other downsides with doing so that I should consider?

TIA

 

[Rocket1]

I don't have a toerail, so I can't speak from personal experience, but some folks down the dock have an older Hunter with a toerail, and they utilize fairly stout caribeeners to attach their springlines to the toerail. Seems to work fairly well.

 

[David in Sandusky]

Toerail is strong

The toerail is probably the strongest structure on your boat. Mounting anything on the toerail makes a strong solution!

 

[Warren Milberg]

The bow cleats on the 1986 model boat are mounted on the toe rail. Very strong location. I personally Think chocks cause wear, not prevent it.

 

[charliegrau]

You can get new cleats that mount to the toe rail. No deck penetrations so no bedding/rebedding or leak issues. They can be positioned perfectly for your spring lines. I like spring lines that run from an amidships cleat, fore and aft to the pier. The cleats can be positioned so that tension on the spring lines pulls the boat in parallel to the pier.

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Thanks for the info folks.

Warren I'll have to search up some pics to see if the '86 cleats are of the same style as mine. I was thinking that I might have clearance issues (for the line between the cleat and toe rail) if I didn't also mount them on risers.

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Yes, I see now that the newer models have the cleats moved to the toe rail. They must have started changing things around during the '86 model year, as the '86es on YW still have the same mounting as my '85.

I think I like the '89 the best - the '87 they just chop out the section by the cleat, whereas the '89 they cut it clean to the stem.

1987


1989


I think I'll add this mod (aka upgrade when it's time to list for sale) to the fall to-do list (or the lazy August no-wind day to-do list).

 

[Warren Milberg]

Clearance for bow cleats on the toe rail is limited on my boat to a 7/16th inch line. Not a problem for me as that is the max diameter line I use anyway.

 

[H30Gary]

I like he cleats on the toe rail also. But if you cut back or modify the toe rail you've compromised the anodizing. What to do about that?

 

[braol]

I'd say toerail...but with one of those shocks (rubber) mounted on the line. Chocks are fine...but make sure that they are through-bolted with a decent backing-plate. Add anti-chafing to the rope where they exit the chock....

 

[Nom De Guerre]

I like he cleats on the toe rail also. But if you cut back or modify the toe rail you've compromised the anodizing. What to do about that?

I'm in a freshwater environment. The rail doesn't look any worse for corrosion wear, where it's been gouged by block shackles, etc.

Never the less, maybe prime and apply an aluminum paint to the cut edge afterward? Re-anodizing or powder coating are certainly out of the question.

 

[timtim]

Cleat part number

I have a 1987 H28.5
The bow cleats were removed by PO and I need new ones. Do you have a part number and the size cleat that is bolted to toe rail?