Lost the bow cleat on my 96 H26, during a storm on Lake Hartwell. Here is my problem, there is no backing plate. Due to the stresses on the bow cleat from dock lines and anchoring, I feel that mt best option is to install another backing plate. The only way I see that I may get access to this area, is to cut a hole in the laminent panel located at the forward end of the V-berth. This panel seem to be bonded to the hull and deck. Has anyone done this? Can it safely be done? I plan on installing a hinged panel over this hole for future access.
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Just to summarize
The cleat forward of the anchor locker got yanked off the boat?? How much damage to the fiberglass? If I had to replace the bow cleat I would cut access holes that I would later cover with 4" access covers in the anchor locker and install backing plates and two cleats (port and starboard ala the 260) but I'm not sure why you wanna make a hole from inside the cabin when the access is through the anchor locker? Regards, Bob Schmit, SV Nodee ('96 H26)
The cleat forward of the anchor locker got yanked off the boat?? How much damage to the fiberglass? If I had to replace the bow cleat I would cut access holes that I would later cover with 4" access covers in the anchor locker and install backing plates and two cleats (port and starboard ala the 260) but I'm not sure why you wanna make a hole from inside the cabin when the access is through the anchor locker? Regards, Bob Schmit, SV Nodee ('96 H26)
access
To access forward, go into the V berth and pull up your cushions. Look at the foward panel and you should see a couple of screws at the bottom. Take them out. What you are seeing is only an asthetically beige caulking which to me should not be on there. You should then be able to remove the front panel and remove the foam block and then see what is going on. Generally, the cleat is moored with bolts that are drilled and tapped as there should be an aluminum plate encapsulted in the fiberglass. See if that is there and if so, you can probably get away from putting in a backing plate by tapping with the next size bolt. Please advise what you find and we can go from there. Crazy Dave Condon
To access forward, go into the V berth and pull up your cushions. Look at the foward panel and you should see a couple of screws at the bottom. Take them out. What you are seeing is only an asthetically beige caulking which to me should not be on there. You should then be able to remove the front panel and remove the foam block and then see what is going on. Generally, the cleat is moored with bolts that are drilled and tapped as there should be an aluminum plate encapsulted in the fiberglass. See if that is there and if so, you can probably get away from putting in a backing plate by tapping with the next size bolt. Please advise what you find and we can go from there. Crazy Dave Condon
"I did it Bob's way..."
With apologies to Frank Sinatra. My 26 now has a bow roller where the cleat used to be and two bow cleats, backed, with access through the anchor well. One cautionary note: Be sure the inspection/access plates from the anchor well are snug and keep the anchor well drain clear. Otherwise, you may find water in a strange place after a rain!
With apologies to Frank Sinatra. My 26 now has a bow roller where the cleat used to be and two bow cleats, backed, with access through the anchor well. One cautionary note: Be sure the inspection/access plates from the anchor well are snug and keep the anchor well drain clear. Otherwise, you may find water in a strange place after a rain!
Your choice of ways and Harvey, could you post pictures?
I've acessed the area the way Dave said to bolt the bow pulpit with nuts. It's really tough to work that area you need mirrors, possibly kids ect. but possible. I was thinking among many projects of adding a bow roller and two larger cleats there. Lack of bow roller, lack of cleats and lousy rudders are clearly spots that could/should be improved upon in the 26/260. alan
I've acessed the area the way Dave said to bolt the bow pulpit with nuts. It's really tough to work that area you need mirrors, possibly kids ect. but possible. I was thinking among many projects of adding a bow roller and two larger cleats there. Lack of bow roller, lack of cleats and lousy rudders are clearly spots that could/should be improved upon in the 26/260. alan
pulled off and gone
Cleat and screws pulled off, only damage was a chip in fiberglass. Had to replace hull stripes from rubbing on fenders. Marina owner said that waves were hitting stern of boat and splashing all the way to the bow, and breaking at his knees while he was standing on the dock(5 to 6 feet).
Cleat and screws pulled off, only damage was a chip in fiberglass. Had to replace hull stripes from rubbing on fenders. Marina owner said that waves were hitting stern of boat and splashing all the way to the bow, and breaking at his knees while he was standing on the dock(5 to 6 feet).
Two Thoughts
First would using the original holes with fender washers and nuts on longer machine screws hold up? Second how about using a different type of cleat? I am planning on replacing the one on my bow with one of the stainless steel open base cleat that uses four screws instead of the two. The stock cleats just not big enough to get a line through.
First would using the original holes with fender washers and nuts on longer machine screws hold up? Second how about using a different type of cleat? I am planning on replacing the one on my bow with one of the stainless steel open base cleat that uses four screws instead of the two. The stock cleats just not big enough to get a line through.
Here is one way
Here is another way to do it. I installed this 8" chrome-plated solid bronze cleat on a 94 H-26. Access was fairly easy thru that triangular wood plate in the front of the v-berth, like Dave said. I used extra long bolts with fender washers and lock nuts. If the cleat goes, the bow goes. See the picture.
Here is another way to do it. I installed this 8" chrome-plated solid bronze cleat on a 94 H-26. Access was fairly easy thru that triangular wood plate in the front of the v-berth, like Dave said. I used extra long bolts with fender washers and lock nuts. If the cleat goes, the bow goes. See the picture.
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