bow chainplate, welding

pjacobs55 · Apr 29, 2006

Colin:
I've been thinking along the same lines. I think it's a good idea if
the weld is continued all around the joint on both sides, by a
competant welder of course.
Did you have to remove the pulpit to get the fitting off, or was there
enough room to lift it out of the stem fitting without removal?

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

stevebirch2002 · Apr 30, 2006

Hi Colin

I lost my mast due to this weld giving way in fairly mild winds (F2/3).
For this reason I desinged and made a double bow roller with chain plate
made out of 5mm and 6mm 316 stainless. Quite a few Vega owners have
these Bow rollers fitted with an integrated chain plate. I think there
are photos in the User Group but more than welcome to email you some
photos.

Cheers

Steve Birch (Technical)

stevebirch2002 · Apr 30, 2006

Hi Peter

You can remove the chainplate without removing the pulpit. Loosen the
attachemnets and the end of the pulpit that attaches to the chainplate
can be lifted just enough to remove the chainplate fitting. Bit fiddly
inside to undo the three bolts holding the chainplate.

Cheers

Steve Birch (Technical)

pjacobs55 · Apr 30, 2006

Thanks, Steve. This is one of the 'next' things on my list. When I
haul the boat out this winter I'm going to fabricate a stronger
fitting.
Your bow roller setup is very nice!

Peter #1331 'Sin Tacha'

bbach1949 · Apr 30, 2006

I had a welder friend double up the vertical fin portion of the bow chain
plate, as the thin section showed bending and some elongation of the pin holes.
In the process, he added quite a bit more metal to the welds. I don't
think the problem with the original was the length of the welds, rather with the
flexibility of the too thin "fin" section. Any side load could cause
cracking over time. We used type 316 stainless for the additional thickness. Not
as elegant as Steve's bow roller solution, but a whole lot cheaper, and just
as strong in my opinion. As always, just my humble opinion. Bill Bach, V
1071

pjacobs55 · Apr 30, 2006

IMHO I believe the addition of a roller furling jib puts loads on the
chain plate it wasn't designed to handle. There's quite a weight of
sail and gear there banging from side to side, even when the boat is
docked. The original chain plate is probably fine for hank-on sails.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

stevebirch2002 · May 1, 2006

Hi Peter

There have been a number of reports of this chainplate giving way with
just hanked-on sails. I contcated Lars Lemby (Vega God) who was
surprised I hadnt heard of this when I lost mymast five years ago!!

The chainplate, in my opinion, is too thin at 2 - 3mm but they have
lasted over 35 years!! I am not saying install a Double Bow Roller
System but everyone should check their forestay chainplate weld every
year. My fitting was just peeled off and bent double when the horizontal
weld gave way. I still have the offending chainplate which I show to
Vega owners when they ask. If needed I will post the photo on the Group
Site.

All in my humble opinion only!!

Steve Birch (Technical)

millerkm81 · May 1, 2006

Hi Steve,

This is news to me. Are there any reports of the other (shroud and backstay) chainplates
failing?

Hans

stevebirch2002 · May 1, 2006

Hi Hans

The only ones I have heard of are failures of the forestay chainplate. I
have seen many that have had the three holes ovalled. When I lost my
mast I asked around and was informed that this had happened a few times
to other Vegas. Seeing the thickness is only 2 - 3mm I can see why this
has happened. As I said they have lasted 35 odd years so not too bad a
design problem. I look at the forestay chainplate on every Vega I see
just to check and a few have had the holes worn oval. A couple have also
had rusted welds. I am over-cautious about it as I lost my mast and it
scared the "nuts" off me!

Southenr Comofrt is now anti-fouled and will be launched in about ten
days time, looking forward to some sailing!!

Cheers

Steve Birch (Technical)