Bow cap for my 1983 H-30

Jan 4, 2007
406
Hunter 30 Centerport
The black fiberglass bow cap on my 1983 H-30 has worn through and the rough edges saw through my mooring lines. I made an oak cap out of 1" boards but it only later a few seasons.

I'd like to make a stainless cover to fit over the old cap. Anyone done anything like this. And if so do you have the details?

Thanks.
 
Mar 22, 2004
733
Hunter 30 Vero Beach
Someone on here made one out of stainless, but I can't find the post about it. I must not be searching the right part name.
 

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
Stainless is a great idea...except that cutting and drilling plate stainless is REALLY hard to do. If you have a good machine shop in your area, they could do it. Good luck with your project!
 
Feb 1, 2010
210
Hunter 33.5 El Dorado Lake, Kansas
The black fiberglass bow cap on my 1983 H-30 has worn through and the rough edges saw through my mooring lines. I made an oak cap out of 1" boards but it only later a few seasons. I'd like to make a stainless cover to fit over the old cap. Anyone done anything like this. And if so do you have the details? Thanks.
As you said it's fiberglass. I made repairs to mine and painted it with vinyl paint. Looks like new again for another 30 years.
 
Apr 7, 2014
8
Hunter 30 Nyack, NY
I had the same thing happen to my cap when Sandy rolled through at the Club. I have an '82 h30 and I am on a mooring. I put chain from the cleat through the chock and about 3 feet down to the pennant. The boat survived with no chafe (the chain took it in stride) but the fiberglass did not last.

I decided to fix the front once and for all. I used 3/16 inch SS plate in lieu of the fiberglass. I also ran straps about 30 inches down each side on top of the aluminium toe rail. At the tip of the bow where chocks usually go I made a cleat for each side, again out of stainless. The nose plate overhangs the hull about an inch all around. On the overhang I split a 1inch tube and drove it onto the plate. This now allows me to place the pennant in the chock and it just hangs right over the side. I have NO chafe gear whatso ever on the pennant. There is no chafe at all. its been on two years and no chafe on the same pennants. I don't use the factory cleats anymore. The 3 feet from the cleat to the chock used to saw off all the pennants when a blow came. The streach was terrible.

I don't have pictures of the modification finished. I just have before pixs. I'll go up to the Club this weekend take some pixs and post them to the forum.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,023
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
I had the same thing happen to my cap when Sandy rolled through at the Club. I have an '82 h30 and I am on a mooring. I put chain from the cleat through the chock and about 3 feet down to the pennant. The boat survived with no chafe (the chain took it in stride) but the fiberglass did not last. I decided to fix the front once and for all. I used 3/16 inch SS plate in lieu of the fiberglass. I also ran straps about 30 inches down each side on top of the aluminium toe rail. At the tip of the bow where chocks usually go I made a cleat for each side, again out of stainless. The nose plate overhangs the hull about an inch all around. On the overhang I split a 1inch tube and drove it onto the plate. This now allows me to place the pennant in the chock and it just hangs right over the side. I have NO chafe gear whatso ever on the pennant. There is no chafe at all. its been on two years and no chafe on the same pennants. I don't use the factory cleats anymore. The 3 feet from the cleat to the chock used to saw off all the pennants when a blow came. The streach was terrible. I don't have pictures of the modification finished. I just have before pixs. I'll go up to the Club this weekend take some pixs and post them to the forum.
Eagerly awaiting those photos. You kind of lost me with the straps run down the toe rail. Can't quite picture it. I'm really curious about this solution.

The one year my '82 H30 spent on a mooring, my lines broke through that cap in the first week. I got through the season by adding lots of chafe protection and not running the lines through the chocks. I repaired the cap, cosmetically at least, and have been in a slip since them, so it has not been a priority issue, but none the less would like to know what to do about it.
 
Apr 7, 2014
8
Hunter 30 Nyack, NY
The black fiberglass bow cap on my 1983 H-30 has worn through and the rough edges saw through my mooring lines. I made an oak cap out of 1" boards but it only later a few seasons.

I'd like to make a stainless cover to fit over the old cap. Anyone done anything like this. And if so do you have the details?

Thanks.
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Sorry Guys, This was the first time I'm attaching files to this post.

As you can see I made some templates before transferring to SS. The main plate replacing the Fiberglass is 3/16" thick. The two long pieces of SS that attach over the Toe Rail are 2 inch by 1/4" by 42" long and extend over the 3/16" plate. The homemade Cleats are 1 1/4" round SS with bolts coming up thru the 3/16" plate , the 1/4" strip then the rounds and a top to the cleat. You can see nuts at the top. The heads of the bolts are sunk into the fiberglass at the nose so the plate lays flat. I came back 42" on the side bars so the Bow Rail can rest square to the boat as with the toe rail.

You can see on the side view that the round tube is slit and is jammed onto the protruding 3/16" plate to allow a smooth ride for the Pennant. This part is still Aluminum as I have not gotten to bending the SS tube yet. I put a screw at either end to hold it to the plate.

I spent about $200 for the SS and Bolts. It was well worth it. I no longer use chafe gear. Works perfectly.

I first made Paper templates, then I transferred to the scrap aluminum ( was a construction traffic sign) and then to the SS. I think I had to file a couple of holes at the final assembly but all went together well. Note, when you take the screws out of the toe rail they do spring out so be prepared.

I just took these photos yesterday, as you can see the nose is pushed into the hillside where the grass grows tall. Nyack Boat Club.

I also took my Skeg and Rudder off this weekend. The rudder need som work on one side so I rather do it in the warm garage.

Last weekend I removed the Hot water heater (JUnk) and the Fuel tank. The plywood that the both items sat on was totally saturated with fuel. When I started to cut this plywood out the venears just fell apart, there was no more glue in the plywood. I don't plan on putting a water heater back but the fuel tank will now be mounted with aluminum angles. That plywood added such a refreshing smell to the boat, I won't miss it.

The skeg had five 3/8" x 41/2" SS long lag boats holding it in place. Had to use use the impact gun to remove. I split the joint with the vibrating tool with the thin blade. a little persuasion got it loose. Plywood core of skeg looked brand new, perfect. I plan on making a removable end piece so I can remove the rudder without dropping the skeg.

The rudder stearing quadrant needed the impact gun to remove the 4 bolts that hold the split together. Kroil oil was used and once they spun they came out. The Philips head screw that keys the quadrant to the rudder tube would only respond to a vice grip. All that was left was the upper bearing ring which again the bolt running thru the ring and rudder tube had to be moved with the impact gun. 30+ years of SS bolts set in aluminum froze it all up.

Rudder then just fell out.

I need to get to the rudder stuffing box. The upper bearing was loose (big block of Delrin). The skeg picks up the bottom of the rudder pin to resist lateral force.

Enough for now. I got some pictures. Can post if what I already sent worked.
 

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Apr 7, 2014
8
Hunter 30 Nyack, NY
The black fiberglass bow cap on my 1983 H-30 has worn through and the rough edges saw through my mooring lines. I made an oak cap out of 1" boards but it only later a few seasons.

I'd like to make a stainless cover to fit over the old cap. Anyone done anything like this. And if so do you have the details?

Thanks.
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH] Here is the Skeg removed. Now the boat is rudderless.
 

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Oct 6, 2007
1,023
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
A picture is worth a thousand words. Your bow cap description makes sense to me now. Seems pretty bullet proof.
 
Oct 20, 2011
127
Hunter 30 Green Bay
How did you get access to remove the skeg bolts? I've been trying to find a 4'5" mechanic but no luck so far...
 
Apr 7, 2014
8
Hunter 30 Nyack, NY
How did you get access to remove the skeg bolts? I've been trying to find a 4'5" mechanic but no luck so far...
Ha! its not easy.

First Disconnect engine and move forward out of the way.

Next remove bulkhead. Might have to cut one leg of it off to remove. I cut starboard side. About 6 screws hold it in place.

Now you have access behind bulkhead. Next remove Water Heater 110volt job.
The bottom outer shell had rotted completly at the bottom. Even though it held water its hitting the garbage can. 32years old for a household grader heater its seen better days. I don't plan on replacing it soon. The tank tiedown strap was missing.

Next is the fuel tank. Cut strap and disconnect hoses. I will replace all hoses. remove wires from sending unit. Pull tank forward. Then removed 4 gallons of fuel. Looked in tank, looks very clean.

Next, looked at plywood that tank and waterheater sat on and decided to remove. Started to cut down middle with vibrating cutter and the whole piece delaminated and fell apart. Totally saturated with fuel. Suspect the fuel hoses or sending unit gasket may leak. Will fix alland use aluminum to hold tank in place.

Next could now see bolts for skeg. They are 4 1/2 " Long 3/8" lag bolts SS.
I broke them loose by hand and used an impact gun to run them out. I also used the impact gun to remove the steering quadrant bolts for rudder removal.

Once the lag bolts were out then the joint between hull and skeg is cut using the vibrating cutter tool. then a little prying helped losen it. Once that is off the rudder comes out nicely.

The rudder bearings have some slop that I want to tighten up, but not too much. I'm going to make the bottom of the skeg removable so it doesnt have to be removed to drop the rudder. Still working out details.

The reason for rudder removal is that one side of the rudder is cracked real bad. I plan on rebuilding, if necessary, in my heated garage vs the winter of Nyack. Reassembly should go quickly and probably the boat will smell fresher next year without the saturated plywood.

Once the engine, bulkhead, water heater, tank and plywood are removed the whole back is accessable. Just lay down and do the work. The cockpit drain hoses will be replaced. They were plastic and as I leaned on one it broke. Not good for the boat. They used cheap corrigated pool hose for that. its aged out.

Anything else you want to know?

I need to Photo the inside of the boat. Won't be up there for a couple weeks. Snowing here today 4 inches of slush already. I want to tarp the cockpit to keep snow out, snow got me first.

This fall has been tough, if you didn't winterize at the beginning of the month the cold snap we had last week froze a couple engines, I know of one. I was winterized Nov. 1.