I have little (1/8" - 1/4") blisters on the bottom of my C22. They are spread around the bottom and I think there are about the same number as when I got the boat several years ago. Still, they bug me. Has anyone out there actually done the job of sanding/grinding off the gel coat and applying a barrier coat? How hard was it? What tools did you use? I don't mind doing work and I'd hate to pay someone thousands of dollars to do the job. On the other hand I don't want to start something that is incredibly difficult. I'd appreciate any feedback and advice. Thanks! Randy
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Not Hard
I did a 28 FT S2 once. For us it was not hard. Used 60 grit paper, took most of the gel coat off to open the blisters. Let it dry all winter before putting on the Interlux barrier coat. I used 2000/2001. There are other options that you can look at. Wooked fine for me. Some of your blisters may need to be ground out, in which case they need to be filled. The bottom must be resonably dry when putting the barrier on. Just follow the directions on the can. Good luck.
I did a 28 FT S2 once. For us it was not hard. Used 60 grit paper, took most of the gel coat off to open the blisters. Let it dry all winter before putting on the Interlux barrier coat. I used 2000/2001. There are other options that you can look at. Wooked fine for me. Some of your blisters may need to be ground out, in which case they need to be filled. The bottom must be resonably dry when putting the barrier on. Just follow the directions on the can. Good luck.
C
Carl Anderson
It just takes time
I have just finished doing the exact repair you are talking about. Had maybe 3000 little blisters (and about a dozen the size of a golf ball). I used a dremel-type rotary grinder and opened up most of them. Then filled in the holes using the west system epoxy filler. Sanded smooth and then barrier coated with 6 layers of west system. It took all of my spare time since the beginning of august to get it done. I just bought the boat in july and it had set in a barn for 4 years so it was already very dry.
I have just finished doing the exact repair you are talking about. Had maybe 3000 little blisters (and about a dozen the size of a golf ball). I used a dremel-type rotary grinder and opened up most of them. Then filled in the holes using the west system epoxy filler. Sanded smooth and then barrier coated with 6 layers of west system. It took all of my spare time since the beginning of august to get it done. I just bought the boat in july and it had set in a barn for 4 years so it was already very dry.
C22 Blister Job
Randy: Using the Interlux 2000 barrier coating, I refinished the bottom of my 22 almost three years ago. I did it while it was on the trailer, blocked a little above the bunks,and in the spring when it was quite dry. First I dug into all the blisters mostly with a small screw driver. Then filled them with Watertite epoxy. Sanded the hull to remove excess and to get off earlier bottom coats, used solvents recommended by the paint company then applied I think 6 coats of Interlux 2000. I found that the real fine foam rollers like Home Depot sells for polyurethane on household doors and cabinets to work well for application, supplemented by a good brush for tight spots. After two seasons of use, I see no new blisters. Dick
Randy: Using the Interlux 2000 barrier coating, I refinished the bottom of my 22 almost three years ago. I did it while it was on the trailer, blocked a little above the bunks,and in the spring when it was quite dry. First I dug into all the blisters mostly with a small screw driver. Then filled them with Watertite epoxy. Sanded the hull to remove excess and to get off earlier bottom coats, used solvents recommended by the paint company then applied I think 6 coats of Interlux 2000. I found that the real fine foam rollers like Home Depot sells for polyurethane on household doors and cabinets to work well for application, supplemented by a good brush for tight spots. After two seasons of use, I see no new blisters. Dick
what about the keel?
I did the exact job 4 years ago when I purchased my '86 C22. One other thing that you might consider is to remove the keel and at least inspect the condition of the pivot pin , hangers and cable. My cable broke this season and I just removed the keel to check for damage and to replace the cable. It was interesting getting back on the trailer with the keel hanging down. The grey barrier coat is just begining to show thru the bottom paint so I'll have to strip and paint in the spring. I used a chemical stripper and put the slop into coffee cans for disposal. It also doesn't put all that dust in the air. The job should be easier this time as the bottom is in good shape. Its not hard work. it just takes some time.
I did the exact job 4 years ago when I purchased my '86 C22. One other thing that you might consider is to remove the keel and at least inspect the condition of the pivot pin , hangers and cable. My cable broke this season and I just removed the keel to check for damage and to replace the cable. It was interesting getting back on the trailer with the keel hanging down. The grey barrier coat is just begining to show thru the bottom paint so I'll have to strip and paint in the spring. I used a chemical stripper and put the slop into coffee cans for disposal. It also doesn't put all that dust in the air. The job should be easier this time as the bottom is in good shape. Its not hard work. it just takes some time.
R
R Kolb
DIck
Thank you all for your replies. Charlie, I have a fixed keel. Dick and Carl you say you first carved out the blisters and then sanded the hull. If the blisters are between the gel coat and the fiberglass then wont sanding off the gel coat get rid of the blisters without the grinding? Also, when you were sanding, how did you know when to stop, that you were through the gel coat? Is it obvious? When you apply the coats of barrier do you sand between coats or can you apply them one right after another without sanding? Thanks for all the info! Randy
Thank you all for your replies. Charlie, I have a fixed keel. Dick and Carl you say you first carved out the blisters and then sanded the hull. If the blisters are between the gel coat and the fiberglass then wont sanding off the gel coat get rid of the blisters without the grinding? Also, when you were sanding, how did you know when to stop, that you were through the gel coat? Is it obvious? When you apply the coats of barrier do you sand between coats or can you apply them one right after another without sanding? Thanks for all the info! Randy
Randy blisters
Randy: My 22 was located away from a good electric power source, so I did my sanding by hand. Hence I seldom went through the gel coat, and in fact I think I wouldn't want to, except where it has already failed to exclude water. The barrier coat seemed to cover both the Watertite epoxy filled breaks and the gel coat OK. My sanding was primarily to take off all the high spots made by filling the cut-into blisters, before applying the gel coat. I did not sand between barrier coats and I did about 2 coats of that a day. I did sand lightly several months after the last application to smoothe up the surface a bit. I used the boat without anti-fouling bottom paint which isn't needed here at rather pristine Fremont Lake. Read the directions that come with the barrier coat well before using and they will probably answer most of your questions. Dick
Randy: My 22 was located away from a good electric power source, so I did my sanding by hand. Hence I seldom went through the gel coat, and in fact I think I wouldn't want to, except where it has already failed to exclude water. The barrier coat seemed to cover both the Watertite epoxy filled breaks and the gel coat OK. My sanding was primarily to take off all the high spots made by filling the cut-into blisters, before applying the gel coat. I did not sand between barrier coats and I did about 2 coats of that a day. I did sand lightly several months after the last application to smoothe up the surface a bit. I used the boat without anti-fouling bottom paint which isn't needed here at rather pristine Fremont Lake. Read the directions that come with the barrier coat well before using and they will probably answer most of your questions. Dick
J
jeff
Here's a photo log of my bottom job
Randy, here's a photo log of my experience. It was long and hard but I am pleased with the end results. My blisters were extensive and deep. Meaning they went well into the fiberglass not just gel coat blisters on the surface. I used a dremel tool to grind out both large and small blisters, let them dry (almost an entire TX summer) and filled with either fiberglass cloth and epoxy (deep blisters) or with west systems and filler for the small ones. I recommend that you go down to your marine store of choice and get the west systems handbook on repairing blisters. It will be the best $3.00 you will spend during this process. It will talk you through the steps and answer many questions. For your question regarding the grinding. I would prefer the grinding because you have much greater control over the area you are working on and can isolate your grinding to just the blister. You will know when to stop we you contact solid well laminate fiberglass. The blisters will be softer and typically have a bit of a void behind them (or at least mine did). You will want to get all the 'cancer' out in order to have a good surface to bond with the filler. Good luck and let us know how it goes and feel free to write with more questions. regards, jeff caydreamin@yahoo.com
Randy, here's a photo log of my experience. It was long and hard but I am pleased with the end results. My blisters were extensive and deep. Meaning they went well into the fiberglass not just gel coat blisters on the surface. I used a dremel tool to grind out both large and small blisters, let them dry (almost an entire TX summer) and filled with either fiberglass cloth and epoxy (deep blisters) or with west systems and filler for the small ones. I recommend that you go down to your marine store of choice and get the west systems handbook on repairing blisters. It will be the best $3.00 you will spend during this process. It will talk you through the steps and answer many questions. For your question regarding the grinding. I would prefer the grinding because you have much greater control over the area you are working on and can isolate your grinding to just the blister. You will know when to stop we you contact solid well laminate fiberglass. The blisters will be softer and typically have a bit of a void behind them (or at least mine did). You will want to get all the 'cancer' out in order to have a good surface to bond with the filler. Good luck and let us know how it goes and feel free to write with more questions. regards, jeff caydreamin@yahoo.com
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