I have a one year old 26 M that I am going to slip all season instead of trailer. I understand bottom painting is a must, and it is fairly easy as a DIY. The boat is sitting on the trailer, and I am trying to figure out how to move it on the trailer to paint around the trailer supports that it sits on. Anyone have recommendations on how to do this, or a particular bottom painting product that works well? Thanks.
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zinc based cream
zinc based cream is said to prevent the accumulation of bottom growth. I have read this through numerous sources but have yet to speak to someone who has tried it. A bulk jar costs about $10 (diaper rash cream). I have posted this Question with no reply as yet.
zinc based cream is said to prevent the accumulation of bottom growth. I have read this through numerous sources but have yet to speak to someone who has tried it. A bulk jar costs about $10 (diaper rash cream). I have posted this Question with no reply as yet.
No harm in trying
I will soon be putting my 26X in a slip for a short period, but long enough to gauge the bottom growth issue. I will let you know after I put diaper cream down there. Not very nautical though. If it works, we'll have to call it something else
I will soon be putting my 26X in a slip for a short period, but long enough to gauge the bottom growth issue. I will let you know after I put diaper cream down there. Not very nautical though. If it works, we'll have to call it something else
Use the Trailer as your lift.
You lower the front pivot wheel on the trailer as low as it will go. Block up the stern and then raise the front pivot wheel as far up as it will go. Block up the bow and then lower the pivot wheel and you should have about 3" of clearance. Be sure to chock your tires on both sides. Good luck. Are you going to put a barrier paint on before the bottom paint?
You lower the front pivot wheel on the trailer as low as it will go. Block up the stern and then raise the front pivot wheel as far up as it will go. Block up the bow and then lower the pivot wheel and you should have about 3" of clearance. Be sure to chock your tires on both sides. Good luck. Are you going to put a barrier paint on before the bottom paint?
block up?
I am brand new to this; can you elaborate a little more precisely how you "block up"? Also, since the boat will only be in fresh water about 5 months, and the fiberglass is pristine and shiny, some people say bottom painting is not an absolute must, and I can power clean when I pull it out. True or bad advice? Thanks for your help.
I am brand new to this; can you elaborate a little more precisely how you "block up"? Also, since the boat will only be in fresh water about 5 months, and the fiberglass is pristine and shiny, some people say bottom painting is not an absolute must, and I can power clean when I pull it out. True or bad advice? Thanks for your help.
Bottoms and Water
If you are going to bottom paint, put a barrier coat on first. If you are going to keep it in the water for long periods of time (weeks to months) barrier coat it first. For short periods in the water a good coat of wax will work. The barrier coat is more important than the bottom paint. Gel coat is not water proof. In time water will pass through the gel coat, faster with scratches or gouges, and will start to separate the gelcoat from them laminate (blisters). These are a pain to fix and can get costly. A good barrier coat will improve the resale of the boat and help prevent blisters. The bottom paint is to keep growth off the hull and in some fresh water areas you can get away with out it and just presure wash the boat at the end of the season. But if you are going to keep the boat in the water, put a barrier coat on. Make sure to dry out the hull and patch any gouges when you pull the boat and put new barrier coat on thoses spots where it was scratched off. This will keep you hull in good condition for a life time. Mac's are know for blistering. It won't happen the first year, but when it appears, you'll wish you had put a barrier coat on.
If you are going to bottom paint, put a barrier coat on first. If you are going to keep it in the water for long periods of time (weeks to months) barrier coat it first. For short periods in the water a good coat of wax will work. The barrier coat is more important than the bottom paint. Gel coat is not water proof. In time water will pass through the gel coat, faster with scratches or gouges, and will start to separate the gelcoat from them laminate (blisters). These are a pain to fix and can get costly. A good barrier coat will improve the resale of the boat and help prevent blisters. The bottom paint is to keep growth off the hull and in some fresh water areas you can get away with out it and just presure wash the boat at the end of the season. But if you are going to keep the boat in the water, put a barrier coat on. Make sure to dry out the hull and patch any gouges when you pull the boat and put new barrier coat on thoses spots where it was scratched off. This will keep you hull in good condition for a life time. Mac's are know for blistering. It won't happen the first year, but when it appears, you'll wish you had put a barrier coat on.
Look in West Marine
Interlux makes a two part coating so does Pettit paints. They're not cheap but oh what peace of mind it brings. You may get by with a quart of product. When I would paint my 26S with antifouling I never quite used a full quart. Steve P.
Interlux makes a two part coating so does Pettit paints. They're not cheap but oh what peace of mind it brings. You may get by with a quart of product. When I would paint my 26S with antifouling I never quite used a full quart. Steve P.
Greg is right
Unfortunately I left my boat in the (fresh) water last summer thinking it would be fine for a couple months without paint. Now the gel coat below the water line is covered with blisters about 3mm in diameter. I just got some quotes to get it repaired. $2500-$4000! Looks like I'm sailing this season with a bumpy bottom.
Unfortunately I left my boat in the (fresh) water last summer thinking it would be fine for a couple months without paint. Now the gel coat below the water line is covered with blisters about 3mm in diameter. I just got some quotes to get it repaired. $2500-$4000! Looks like I'm sailing this season with a bumpy bottom.
Bottom painting requires serious consideration
Greg Pecaut wrote: "Mac's are know for blistering." How many cases are there for qualifying this statement, I have not heard of any myself (except for Chad below with an older classic and fresh water), actually there are more cases to qualify that Macs are known for not blistering in my experience. I trailered my first year, 3 months in a slip the second year, 4 months slip the third year, and this year will be about 5 1/2 months slipped, all without barrier or bottom paint and no problems with blisters so far (Salt water-Pacific Northwest). I can't say the same for marine growth though since I have to pull it out every 4-6 weeks for a pressure wash to get the critters off. This year I am trying Aurora Marine's VS721 bottom wax, they make some pretty substantial claims about it, I'll soon find out if it lives up to the claims. Two years ago I found myself falling victim to the fear mongering of barrier coating so I stopped at the Interlux booth at the Boat Show to inquire about it. The representative there told me that as much as he'd like to sell me on his product, I really did not need it being a trailerable boat with seasonal mooring. He explained that barrier coating was more for boats that would spend years in a slip, not months and that I was likely over-reacting to the barrier coat hype that gets bandied about. So I don't barrier coat, nor do I bottom paint, but I do spend an inordinate amount of time and effort with waxing. Now, if I was to choose the bottom paint route, I would likely barrier coat first since I am already prepared for the big job of bottom painting, might as well go all the way and do the barrier coat too. I have discussed the bottom painting with a few other owners who have bottom paint and they find the maintenance of the bottom paint to be fairly onerous and recommend that if I have not painted yet that I should refrain from doing so (albeit they may not be too familiar with the onerous task of waxing). I can't really say which is the lesser evil, waxing or bottom paint, since I only have experience with waxing, but I would put some serious thought into it before making such final decision, since once you start the paint route you are committed, whereas with waxing the options are still open.
Greg Pecaut wrote: "Mac's are know for blistering." How many cases are there for qualifying this statement, I have not heard of any myself (except for Chad below with an older classic and fresh water), actually there are more cases to qualify that Macs are known for not blistering in my experience. I trailered my first year, 3 months in a slip the second year, 4 months slip the third year, and this year will be about 5 1/2 months slipped, all without barrier or bottom paint and no problems with blisters so far (Salt water-Pacific Northwest). I can't say the same for marine growth though since I have to pull it out every 4-6 weeks for a pressure wash to get the critters off. This year I am trying Aurora Marine's VS721 bottom wax, they make some pretty substantial claims about it, I'll soon find out if it lives up to the claims. Two years ago I found myself falling victim to the fear mongering of barrier coating so I stopped at the Interlux booth at the Boat Show to inquire about it. The representative there told me that as much as he'd like to sell me on his product, I really did not need it being a trailerable boat with seasonal mooring. He explained that barrier coating was more for boats that would spend years in a slip, not months and that I was likely over-reacting to the barrier coat hype that gets bandied about. So I don't barrier coat, nor do I bottom paint, but I do spend an inordinate amount of time and effort with waxing. Now, if I was to choose the bottom paint route, I would likely barrier coat first since I am already prepared for the big job of bottom painting, might as well go all the way and do the barrier coat too. I have discussed the bottom painting with a few other owners who have bottom paint and they find the maintenance of the bottom paint to be fairly onerous and recommend that if I have not painted yet that I should refrain from doing so (albeit they may not be too familiar with the onerous task of waxing). I can't really say which is the lesser evil, waxing or bottom paint, since I only have experience with waxing, but I would put some serious thought into it before making such final decision, since once you start the paint route you are committed, whereas with waxing the options are still open.
Great discussion
These balanced discussions are one reason I love this forum, although sometimes I get confused. Just when I'm convinced of one thing, somebody comes along with a perfectly logical explanation of why I should do something else. This is our second year with our '74 V17. We trailered it last year and this season it's going on a freshwater mooring for 5 months. The boat has never had a barrier coat nor bottom paint and does have some minor blistering. We're going to heavily wax the hull this year and see what happens. As Capt. Kermie points out, it keeps our options open. If the hull gets worse, I'll likely fix it myself, and learn a ton in the process. If I don't get around to ever repairing the blisters, the boat will be perfectly useable for quite a long time. I have solid evidence sitting in my driveway that an unprotected fiberglass hull will last at least 32 years. Call me foolhardy, but I'm going sailing.
These balanced discussions are one reason I love this forum, although sometimes I get confused. Just when I'm convinced of one thing, somebody comes along with a perfectly logical explanation of why I should do something else. This is our second year with our '74 V17. We trailered it last year and this season it's going on a freshwater mooring for 5 months. The boat has never had a barrier coat nor bottom paint and does have some minor blistering. We're going to heavily wax the hull this year and see what happens. As Capt. Kermie points out, it keeps our options open. If the hull gets worse, I'll likely fix it myself, and learn a ton in the process. If I don't get around to ever repairing the blisters, the boat will be perfectly useable for quite a long time. I have solid evidence sitting in my driveway that an unprotected fiberglass hull will last at least 32 years. Call me foolhardy, but I'm going sailing.
Expoxy the bottom
$400 for 2 gallons of Interprotect 2000 is an excellent insurance for future resale value.
$400 for 2 gallons of Interprotect 2000 is an excellent insurance for future resale value.
air lift
I'm seriously considering one of these systems before my next bottom treatment. After a few cash layouts for bottom paint, it would be paid for. Then there's the benefit of a smooth hull and limited water contact. This particular design can be taken out of the water in the off season, moved to another slip or sold.
I'm seriously considering one of these systems before my next bottom treatment. After a few cash layouts for bottom paint, it would be paid for. Then there's the benefit of a smooth hull and limited water contact. This particular design can be taken out of the water in the off season, moved to another slip or sold.
Blocking it Up
Sorry for the late reply but I have just finished adding 3 coats of Micron Extra to my 26X. By blocking it up I ment that you should build temporary stands to support the weight of the boat at the stern and bow. Similar to what Kaizen made. I used some empty milk crates ( the old steel ones, not the plastic ones and put some timbers and wood shims to hold the boat. I had about 3" of space and this allowed me to "carefully" paint the areas under the bunks. I have four coats of barrier paint on the bottom and originally three coats of the Micron Extra ( and ablative paint) on top of that. It's fairly easy to repaint the ablative paint as all you have to is lightly sand the bottom, clean with solvent and then repaint. My barrier coat is black and the ablative is blue and I can tell when it needs to repainted when the black starts showing through. I should be good for another 3 to 4 seasons.
Sorry for the late reply but I have just finished adding 3 coats of Micron Extra to my 26X. By blocking it up I ment that you should build temporary stands to support the weight of the boat at the stern and bow. Similar to what Kaizen made. I used some empty milk crates ( the old steel ones, not the plastic ones and put some timbers and wood shims to hold the boat. I had about 3" of space and this allowed me to "carefully" paint the areas under the bunks. I have four coats of barrier paint on the bottom and originally three coats of the Micron Extra ( and ablative paint) on top of that. It's fairly easy to repaint the ablative paint as all you have to is lightly sand the bottom, clean with solvent and then repaint. My barrier coat is black and the ablative is blue and I can tell when it needs to repainted when the black starts showing through. I should be good for another 3 to 4 seasons.
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