I was wondering if anyone has come up with any ideas on how to lift a 23.5 up off the trailer a bit to make it easier to paint the bottom? My friend was telling me he used some blocks and jacks to raise the boat just off the trailer to allow room to paint under the bunks. Has anyone else come up with similar ideas? Thanks.... greg
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Been there
I've done the same thing, using jacks, come-along, blocks to get the boat off the trailer enough to get at the surface. I have a 26.5 and just didn't like all the jerry rigging. What I came up with is to change out the long bunks that came on my trailer and build individual pads to support the hull. Instead of the long bunk I now have 5 individual pads along each side of the hull with an additional pad up front on each side to support the bow. The pads are 10" X 12" 3/16 sheet covered with 12" X 14" 5/8 plywood covered with marine carpet. Now I can remove a single pad, do the work, put the pad back on and move on to the next. I'm did the modification to the trailer myself so the cost other than time was under $150 for material. It would most likely be a $500+ modification if you have a trailer builder make the modifications. It solved the problem for me. The only place I can't get to is the bottom of the keel.
I've done the same thing, using jacks, come-along, blocks to get the boat off the trailer enough to get at the surface. I have a 26.5 and just didn't like all the jerry rigging. What I came up with is to change out the long bunks that came on my trailer and build individual pads to support the hull. Instead of the long bunk I now have 5 individual pads along each side of the hull with an additional pad up front on each side to support the bow. The pads are 10" X 12" 3/16 sheet covered with 12" X 14" 5/8 plywood covered with marine carpet. Now I can remove a single pad, do the work, put the pad back on and move on to the next. I'm did the modification to the trailer myself so the cost other than time was under $150 for material. It would most likely be a $500+ modification if you have a trailer builder make the modifications. It solved the problem for me. The only place I can't get to is the bottom of the keel.
Got 8 pads on My Trailer so
There is always one in a crowd (meaning me). . . so I have 8 pads on my trailer for my 340. Thus dropping a couple at a time makes things easy. So have you every considered adding a couple of pads to your trailer?
There is always one in a crowd (meaning me). . . so I have 8 pads on my trailer for my 340. Thus dropping a couple at a time makes things easy. So have you every considered adding a couple of pads to your trailer?
Greg;
The 23.5 is designed to be on bunk ;boards. Do not consider the individual pads as they will detent the hull which is not good for seal with the water tank ballast. As for trying to raise the boat up off the support pads on the trailer, you could seriously damage the hull or yourself. Crazy Dave Condon
The 23.5 is designed to be on bunk ;boards. Do not consider the individual pads as they will detent the hull which is not good for seal with the water tank ballast. As for trying to raise the boat up off the support pads on the trailer, you could seriously damage the hull or yourself. Crazy Dave Condon
Agree with Crazy Dave
I agree with Crazy Dave. I redid the bottom of my 23.5 last spring. I was going to pull the boat on the trailer and jack the trailer and put stands under it like others have said. I am glad I did not do that. I had the boat hauled and put on boat stands in a local yard. They let me do all the work, and I found that I need to make major repairs to the centerboard and the centerboard bracket. We also found several cracks in the gelcoat that went into the fiberglass. It was the worth the couple hundred bucks to have the boat high enough that I could sit on a stool under it and work. Also when I need to sand and paint the boat yard moved the pads and resecured the boat. They would not let me as the were responsible if there was any damage. That is my 2 cents.
I agree with Crazy Dave. I redid the bottom of my 23.5 last spring. I was going to pull the boat on the trailer and jack the trailer and put stands under it like others have said. I am glad I did not do that. I had the boat hauled and put on boat stands in a local yard. They let me do all the work, and I found that I need to make major repairs to the centerboard and the centerboard bracket. We also found several cracks in the gelcoat that went into the fiberglass. It was the worth the couple hundred bucks to have the boat high enough that I could sit on a stool under it and work. Also when I need to sand and paint the boat yard moved the pads and resecured the boat. They would not let me as the were responsible if there was any damage. That is my 2 cents.
Thanks...
Thanks for the response and i agree with not using the pads. The boat is in the water most of the time anyway. I did contact my marina and they will lift and block the boat for me to work on. Little more expence but well worth it from a safety stand point. Thanks again.... Greg
Thanks for the response and i agree with not using the pads. The boat is in the water most of the time anyway. I did contact my marina and they will lift and block the boat for me to work on. Little more expence but well worth it from a safety stand point. Thanks again.... Greg
Photo Forum H23 Bottom Paint Article
There is an article in the Photo Forum section of this web site about bottom painting an H23. I'll just give you the link and you can take a look. I do not know the construction of your model, but. . . It may work for you with careful placement of the braces. Bill Bowman
There is an article in the Photo Forum section of this web site about bottom painting an H23. I'll just give you the link and you can take a look. I do not know the construction of your model, but. . . It may work for you with careful placement of the braces. Bill Bowman
careful placement
It may have worked for you but there are two concerns. Placement on the side of the hull is at the weakest part of the hull. Alsol, the supports could give if anyone leaned on them even though they are roped down. If using this method, you have to secure the base which these braces are not. The second is the brace could move and the boat shift and fall over. In the yards, you will see jack stands supporting the boats on the bottom of the hull with a flatter surface9 thicker hulls here) and have three feet on each stand for support with a chain stretched to the other stand so neither can move if the boat shifts. I have seen this done before and you are lucky. Two went haywire falling over and in one case the owner had surgery on his leg. I do not recommend what is in the related link out of pure safety. Crazy Dave Condon
It may have worked for you but there are two concerns. Placement on the side of the hull is at the weakest part of the hull. Alsol, the supports could give if anyone leaned on them even though they are roped down. If using this method, you have to secure the base which these braces are not. The second is the brace could move and the boat shift and fall over. In the yards, you will see jack stands supporting the boats on the bottom of the hull with a flatter surface9 thicker hulls here) and have three feet on each stand for support with a chain stretched to the other stand so neither can move if the boat shifts. I have seen this done before and you are lucky. Two went haywire falling over and in one case the owner had surgery on his leg. I do not recommend what is in the related link out of pure safety. Crazy Dave Condon
Dave - Points Taken
Dave and all, Your points are well taken. I have not used this method, but was planning on it in the spring. (Winter in Michigan now). I was just referencing the article for information for Greg (I think). As with any home brew solution to a problem, caution is the watch word. What works for one may not work for someone else. Again, will consider your points IF we decide to do this operation in the spring. Thanks. Bill Bowman
Dave and all, Your points are well taken. I have not used this method, but was planning on it in the spring. (Winter in Michigan now). I was just referencing the article for information for Greg (I think). As with any home brew solution to a problem, caution is the watch word. What works for one may not work for someone else. Again, will consider your points IF we decide to do this operation in the spring. Thanks. Bill Bowman
Rent
See if a near boat yard will rent you four boat stands. You will only need them for two or three days and if you can do this, make sure that you secure the stands with chain Crazy Dave Condon
See if a near boat yard will rent you four boat stands. You will only need them for two or three days and if you can do this, make sure that you secure the stands with chain Crazy Dave Condon
94-- 23.5
Bill-- thanks, I saw that pic in my search through the archives. My Hunter is the newer style which doesnt give much clearance. The boat sits pretty flush on the trailer. Thanks for the help tho. I did talk to the marina, they can lift it when i am ready> Was planning for this weekend but the wx doesnt look to good here in Orlando. ..We'll see what happens.
Bill-- thanks, I saw that pic in my search through the archives. My Hunter is the newer style which doesnt give much clearance. The boat sits pretty flush on the trailer. Thanks for the help tho. I did talk to the marina, they can lift it when i am ready> Was planning for this weekend but the wx doesnt look to good here in Orlando. ..We'll see what happens.
I'm in the same "boat"
Fortunately I bought the boat from a seasoned sailor and now friend of ours who relayed the following information. You take the crank on the trailer to the highest position possible. Remove the straps holding the boat to the trailer and position saw horses or supports under the bow section. Slowly let down the trailer until the front half of the boat is off the runners and keel support. Raise up the trailer again and remove the supports. Place the supports under the stern and then raise up the trailer again. With the supports under the rear it will push up the back just enough to get under the supports. I haven't tried it yet and I question the port and starboard stability but I am going to try it because the yards are overflowing and I'm ready to get in the water. Please comment if you have suggestions.
Fortunately I bought the boat from a seasoned sailor and now friend of ours who relayed the following information. You take the crank on the trailer to the highest position possible. Remove the straps holding the boat to the trailer and position saw horses or supports under the bow section. Slowly let down the trailer until the front half of the boat is off the runners and keel support. Raise up the trailer again and remove the supports. Place the supports under the stern and then raise up the trailer again. With the supports under the rear it will push up the back just enough to get under the supports. I haven't tried it yet and I question the port and starboard stability but I am going to try it because the yards are overflowing and I'm ready to get in the water. Please comment if you have suggestions.
I used the marina,,,, and found blisters!!!!
I ended up using the marina's lift. They charged $4.00 a foot to lift. My boat was put on blocks just high enough to let the keel down about 45-50 degrees. Probably a good thing i did that because once i got under the boat and started sanding the rough spots-- i found BLISTERS!!!! They were around the ballast valve and also around the centerboard area. Also had some on the centerboard too.. i did fix most of them but i was more concerned with the ones on the hull itself. I grinded them out with a dremal, let em dry a few days then then filled. They didnt seem too bad but i know if left untreated they would only get worse with time. Anyway-- all is said and done, shes lookin like brand new now, new stripes, new bottom paint and all shined up. I let her sit on the trailer for a week since the temp dropped below 60 the night after i painted. THis way the paint can cure up. I plan on launchin this weekend and head out sailin once again. I will try to post pics once i get film done.. i took before, during, and after pics.... alot of work but well worth it...
I ended up using the marina's lift. They charged $4.00 a foot to lift. My boat was put on blocks just high enough to let the keel down about 45-50 degrees. Probably a good thing i did that because once i got under the boat and started sanding the rough spots-- i found BLISTERS!!!! They were around the ballast valve and also around the centerboard area. Also had some on the centerboard too.. i did fix most of them but i was more concerned with the ones on the hull itself. I grinded them out with a dremal, let em dry a few days then then filled. They didnt seem too bad but i know if left untreated they would only get worse with time. Anyway-- all is said and done, shes lookin like brand new now, new stripes, new bottom paint and all shined up. I let her sit on the trailer for a week since the temp dropped below 60 the night after i painted. THis way the paint can cure up. I plan on launchin this weekend and head out sailin once again. I will try to post pics once i get film done.. i took before, during, and after pics.... alot of work but well worth it...
Hydraulic floor jack
I did extensive blister repair, barrier coating and bottom paint with the boat on the trailer earlier this year (about six months worth). Here's the way I did it, which I probably wouldn't try with a heavier boat. Fortunately, the H23 is pretty light (about 2300 lb dry). I used the trailer jack method to raise the stern. Then I placed two metal sawhorses (one behind the other) with 4x4 timbers running fore and aft between them, one inch ply and some half-empty bags of mulch (to conform to the hull shape) under the raised stern and cranked away. The stern stayed up on the bags while the trailer dropped away. The fiberglass was pretty flexible in the stern so there was some "oil-canning" but it went away as soon as the boat's weight was off the mulch bags. To lift the forward part of the boat, I put a 2 ton hydraulic floor jack on the ground just behind and in the middle of the forward crossbeam on the trailer. I put a piece of 2x6 deck board and a bag of mulch on the jack and started pumping. The boat rose completely off the trailer about six inches. Then I blocked it up with 6x6 timbers and took the weight off the jack. The only other thing I did was set the boat back down on the trailer bunks every night. Peter H23 "Raven"
I did extensive blister repair, barrier coating and bottom paint with the boat on the trailer earlier this year (about six months worth). Here's the way I did it, which I probably wouldn't try with a heavier boat. Fortunately, the H23 is pretty light (about 2300 lb dry). I used the trailer jack method to raise the stern. Then I placed two metal sawhorses (one behind the other) with 4x4 timbers running fore and aft between them, one inch ply and some half-empty bags of mulch (to conform to the hull shape) under the raised stern and cranked away. The stern stayed up on the bags while the trailer dropped away. The fiberglass was pretty flexible in the stern so there was some "oil-canning" but it went away as soon as the boat's weight was off the mulch bags. To lift the forward part of the boat, I put a 2 ton hydraulic floor jack on the ground just behind and in the middle of the forward crossbeam on the trailer. I put a piece of 2x6 deck board and a bag of mulch on the jack and started pumping. The boat rose completely off the trailer about six inches. Then I blocked it up with 6x6 timbers and took the weight off the jack. The only other thing I did was set the boat back down on the trailer bunks every night. Peter H23 "Raven"
Hey Peter
Good to hear from ya... I did read some of your posts on repairing blisters.. good info. Hopefully i wont have to go through that again for a while. I launched into LM again.. Washed the boat and noticed water in the bilge. I'd say approx 1 gal, i was reading a post about checkin for leaks and found one mentioning the anchor storage box area... I have to check this next time out, i have a feeling i may have punctured the hose a while back trying to get shells and stuff out of there. Hows the sailing out in the Titusville? I plan on trailering out there soon and do some intercoastal cruising. LM is convenient but you know the routine-- wind is not always there
Ok my fren-- Happy Holidays Greg
Good to hear from ya... I did read some of your posts on repairing blisters.. good info. Hopefully i wont have to go through that again for a while. I launched into LM again.. Washed the boat and noticed water in the bilge. I'd say approx 1 gal, i was reading a post about checkin for leaks and found one mentioning the anchor storage box area... I have to check this next time out, i have a feeling i may have punctured the hose a while back trying to get shells and stuff out of there. Hows the sailing out in the Titusville? I plan on trailering out there soon and do some intercoastal cruising. LM is convenient but you know the routine-- wind is not always there
Ok my fren-- Happy Holidays GregHey Greg
I haven't been out sailing much...this fall has been extremely busy. Hopefully I'll get a couple of days in over the Christmas break, but first I gotta scrape some barnacles. It's times like these that I wish I was back in the fresh water. I'm Hoping to trailer back to Lake Monroe next month for a one-day cruise down to Blue Springs. If you're interested in going, let me know and I'll keep you posted. Happy holidays, amigo. Peter H23 "Raven"
I haven't been out sailing much...this fall has been extremely busy. Hopefully I'll get a couple of days in over the Christmas break, but first I gotta scrape some barnacles. It's times like these that I wish I was back in the fresh water. I'm Hoping to trailer back to Lake Monroe next month for a one-day cruise down to Blue Springs. If you're interested in going, let me know and I'll keep you posted. Happy holidays, amigo. Peter H23 "Raven"
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