Bottom painting under the bunks of an H23

[Jim Kneale]

There was a photo posted in the photo forum by Mike Kenney under the same title as above. The photo gallery doesn't permit responses, so I'm posting here.I tried the same trick when I applied E3000 and Micron CSC. I used stacks of concrete blocks, which seemed secure enough. Unfortunately, the next day it was windy. The trailer is on springs, but the concrete blocks aren't. That was enough to shuffle the blocks enough that the boat fell over onto the trailer bunk posts.The post didn't punch through the hull, but put a visible bulge on the inside. That says a lot about how sturdy the hull is.If I had to do it over again (which I wouldn't), I would attach the supports to the trailer frame, or block the trailer frame up off the ground so it doesn't move.Original text associated with the picture:At the beginning of this season I bottom painted with Interlux E2000 and VC17. Needing to get under the trailer bunks, I built four simple stands from 4x4's, a short piece of 1x8 and some scrap carpeting. I positioned the stands at the bulkheads and secured them to the trailer with 3/8" line.To test the stands, I slightly lowered the bunks just below the hull surface and attempted to rock the boat. Amazingly she was rock steady. In retrospect, I think the combination of balance on her keel and the bow winched to the trailer is really all that was needed. Regardless, I always brought the bunks back up anytime I left the boat for any length of time.BTW, the top strip of tape folded in the middle is a rain drip edge to deflect any water away from the painted surface.

 

[Mike]

simple method

I found a simple means of getting the hull off the bunks. I simply lower the trailer jack all the way. Then block up the transom with a sawhorse and boards. Then crank up the bow until the hull weight is off the bunks. At that point simply lower the bunks to paint and raise them again as soon as the paint drys. Most of the boat weight is resting on its keel. The bunks are primarily for balance. PS. When you put the bunks back up you can use a floor jack to get some pressure onto the hull.

 

[Bob Zanowicz]

My solution

I borrowed two boat stands from a friend, stands frequently used at marinas and boatyards as displayed at www.boatstands.com I placed one just to the back of the bunk and one right in front of the same bunk. I managed to raise the boat about 1/2 in off the bunk. To be safe, mark the bunk support struts at their location on the trailer with a magic marker. Then I loosened the bolts on the 3 bunk support struts and lowered the bunks a few inches. This allowed me to sand and paint underneath to the exposed surface of the hull. When completed, I raised the bunks to coincide with the location of the struts I previously marked. Tightened the bolts and lower the boat stands so that the hull rested on the bunks once again. Repeat the process for the other side. Good Luck Bob

 

[Edwin M]

Simple method II

I did the same thing as Mike. KISS method always works best for me. No problem, no extra expenses.