I have a new Hunter 25. I would like to have it bottom painted. The hull is white with a dark stripe around the waterline. What is the best color to use and what manufacturer's paint would be recommended? Also, anything else about the process would be helpful. Any opinions on a fair price for this work as well. I realize it is more expensive the first time it is done.
Bottom Paint
- Thread starter SailingKeyLargo1
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I Would Suggest...
...an ablative paint. Also, color is color. They all work the same, so it's your preference. You should use three coats for the first time following a barrier coat. The first color to be a "marker coat", or a different color, from the second 2 coats. This will tell you when/where the paint is "thinning" out and should be re-touched (usually) on leading edges of keel, rudder and the water line. WM has decent prices this year. But watch next year! But be cautious of annual ablatives (requires painting annually and short paint-to-launch times) vs. "true" ablatives (no annual painting required). Just scuff it up with a scrubbie pad. WM's CPP is the annual ablative and their CPA is their "True" ablative. I have always used Interlux's Micron CSC ($215/gal) paint. WM's CPA ($145/gal) is the "like" paint to CSC. The clerk told me that Petit now makes WM's paint (for last 2 year's) and that Pratical Sailor has given WM's paint favorable reviews since then. I'm using CPA this year.
...an ablative paint. Also, color is color. They all work the same, so it's your preference. You should use three coats for the first time following a barrier coat. The first color to be a "marker coat", or a different color, from the second 2 coats. This will tell you when/where the paint is "thinning" out and should be re-touched (usually) on leading edges of keel, rudder and the water line. WM has decent prices this year. But watch next year! But be cautious of annual ablatives (requires painting annually and short paint-to-launch times) vs. "true" ablatives (no annual painting required). Just scuff it up with a scrubbie pad. WM's CPP is the annual ablative and their CPA is their "True" ablative. I have always used Interlux's Micron CSC ($215/gal) paint. WM's CPA ($145/gal) is the "like" paint to CSC. The clerk told me that Petit now makes WM's paint (for last 2 year's) and that Pratical Sailor has given WM's paint favorable reviews since then. I'm using CPA this year.
Also...
Being a new boat, it seems that the dealer would provide the commissioning of the new boat, that would include the bottom paint. Am I wrong?
Being a new boat, it seems that the dealer would provide the commissioning of the new boat, that would include the bottom paint. Am I wrong?
dependent on where the boat is
I tend to agree with Paul but what works here in New Engalnd can be quite different if your boat is in the Keys. Check around locally to see what folks think works for your area. I've used CPP for years and only repaint biannually so it lasts 2 years for me.
I tend to agree with Paul but what works here in New Engalnd can be quite different if your boat is in the Keys. Check around locally to see what folks think works for your area. I've used CPP for years and only repaint biannually so it lasts 2 years for me.
Dealer paint
Given the sensitivity of the warranty to proper bottom-painting, we have had, and will continue to have, a licensed Hunter dealer do the bottom painting, at least until the warranty is up.
Given the sensitivity of the warranty to proper bottom-painting, we have had, and will continue to have, a licensed Hunter dealer do the bottom painting, at least until the warranty is up.
Bottom paint 101
Good comments so far, especially regarding bottom paint performance in the Florida Keys vs. New England. Here are a few facts condensed from earlier posts on the subject. More details are in the archives. The purpose of bottom paint is to deter hard growth on the hull due to marine animals, i.e., barnacles and such. That's it. The most common active ingredient used for that purpose is cuprous oxide but there are a few brands that use powdered copper metal (VC17 and Copperpoxy, to name a couple). Most paints list the cuprous oxide content on the label, however higher cuprous oxide content does not necessarily mean better performance. Regular bottom paint does NOT prevent marine plant growth like weeds, grass and slime. For that you need a bottom paint with added algaecide and slime blocker. Over the last three or four years, most manufacturere have added these ingredients to their paint formulas but there are still cans of the old stuff floating about. Check the label before you buy. Regular bottom paint does NOT prevent blisters. For that you need an epoxy barrier coat. If your boat is fairly new, you may not even need a barrier coat because of recent improvements in hull layup quality. If you trailer or dry-sail your boat and you don't leave it in the water for more than a week or two at a time you do NOT need bottom paint, nor do you need a barrier coat. If you really do need bottom paint, ask around the local boatyards and see what they use. They know what works best in your area. Try and learn as much as you can before you spend your hard earned buck$. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Good comments so far, especially regarding bottom paint performance in the Florida Keys vs. New England. Here are a few facts condensed from earlier posts on the subject. More details are in the archives. The purpose of bottom paint is to deter hard growth on the hull due to marine animals, i.e., barnacles and such. That's it. The most common active ingredient used for that purpose is cuprous oxide but there are a few brands that use powdered copper metal (VC17 and Copperpoxy, to name a couple). Most paints list the cuprous oxide content on the label, however higher cuprous oxide content does not necessarily mean better performance. Regular bottom paint does NOT prevent marine plant growth like weeds, grass and slime. For that you need a bottom paint with added algaecide and slime blocker. Over the last three or four years, most manufacturere have added these ingredients to their paint formulas but there are still cans of the old stuff floating about. Check the label before you buy. Regular bottom paint does NOT prevent blisters. For that you need an epoxy barrier coat. If your boat is fairly new, you may not even need a barrier coat because of recent improvements in hull layup quality. If you trailer or dry-sail your boat and you don't leave it in the water for more than a week or two at a time you do NOT need bottom paint, nor do you need a barrier coat. If you really do need bottom paint, ask around the local boatyards and see what they use. They know what works best in your area. Try and learn as much as you can before you spend your hard earned buck$. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Bottom prep and blister warranty
I'm not sure if this applies to the newer boats, but in 1999 when my boat was new, Hunter provided very specific instructions for prep'ing the bottom for anti-fouling paint. You risked voiding the warranty if you didn't follow the recommended process. I had the dealer do the prep and paint the first year to ensure that the warranty was intact. Fair winds... Tom
I'm not sure if this applies to the newer boats, but in 1999 when my boat was new, Hunter provided very specific instructions for prep'ing the bottom for anti-fouling paint. You risked voiding the warranty if you didn't follow the recommended process. I had the dealer do the prep and paint the first year to ensure that the warranty was intact. Fair winds... Tom
Prep for bottom paint vs. blister warranty
I believe the recommendation for dealer prep had to do with the fact that a new, factory-fresh hull is very glossy and may even have some of the mold-release compound on it. The hull has to be prepped by cleaning to remove any leftover mold-release compound, then sanding with fairly coarse sandpaper to roughen it and provide some "tooth" for the bottom paint to adhere. If improperly done, too much hull material could be inadvertantly removed, which of course would increase the chance of blistering. If the prep is done by the dealer, then factory guildelines would be followed and the (perceived) risk of blistering shouldn't increase. Peter H23 "Raven"
I believe the recommendation for dealer prep had to do with the fact that a new, factory-fresh hull is very glossy and may even have some of the mold-release compound on it. The hull has to be prepped by cleaning to remove any leftover mold-release compound, then sanding with fairly coarse sandpaper to roughen it and provide some "tooth" for the bottom paint to adhere. If improperly done, too much hull material could be inadvertantly removed, which of course would increase the chance of blistering. If the prep is done by the dealer, then factory guildelines would be followed and the (perceived) risk of blistering shouldn't increase. Peter H23 "Raven"
Sanding will void the warranty
Contact Hunter directly. They will send you instructions on bottom paint. Any sanding of the bottom will void the warranty. They want you to use the no sand method, which many will tell you will cause more problems for you.
Contact Hunter directly. They will send you instructions on bottom paint. Any sanding of the bottom will void the warranty. They want you to use the no sand method, which many will tell you will cause more problems for you.
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