I need to do some repair work on the bottom of my boat and then repaint the bottom. The problem is I'm not sure of a safe way to lift the boat far enough off the trailer bunks to paint. Has anyone done this that might be able to offer some suggestions?
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Dick of Sylvan
Jack above Trailer
What I've done, supplemented with what I've been told is: 1)get trailer in very level place, and block so it can't move, 2) tie springs with heavy line so they stay compressed when you use jacks, 3) Loosen bow tiedown and any others on the boat, 4) loosen swing keel cable if that's your keel, 5) using jacks well supported on both the ground and the bottom of the boat (may need to be handy there to spread weight and not scar the bottom surface), slowly raise from both the transom end and forward of the keel, using blocks on the bunks to hold at appropriate height (I use various pieces of 1/4-1 inch materials, 2 x 4's, and 4 x 4's and some cardboard and cloth padding to get up to about 5 in. clearance-- need to have these ready before you begin). Then can back off jacks some and make sure everything is firm and safe before getting under hull. Areas under blocks will have to be painted after moving the the bunk-blocks forward or aft through jacking, Finally, I like to place clean plastic on bunks before jacking the hull back down so that the carpet doesn't bond to any not-quite cured paint. At first launch, be sure to pick up all this plastic so it doesn't litter the area.
What I've done, supplemented with what I've been told is: 1)get trailer in very level place, and block so it can't move, 2) tie springs with heavy line so they stay compressed when you use jacks, 3) Loosen bow tiedown and any others on the boat, 4) loosen swing keel cable if that's your keel, 5) using jacks well supported on both the ground and the bottom of the boat (may need to be handy there to spread weight and not scar the bottom surface), slowly raise from both the transom end and forward of the keel, using blocks on the bunks to hold at appropriate height (I use various pieces of 1/4-1 inch materials, 2 x 4's, and 4 x 4's and some cardboard and cloth padding to get up to about 5 in. clearance-- need to have these ready before you begin). Then can back off jacks some and make sure everything is firm and safe before getting under hull. Areas under blocks will have to be painted after moving the the bunk-blocks forward or aft through jacking, Finally, I like to place clean plastic on bunks before jacking the hull back down so that the carpet doesn't bond to any not-quite cured paint. At first launch, be sure to pick up all this plastic so it doesn't litter the area.
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Jeff Barger
Great description, but.....
could you please describe the system you use for jacking the boat up. What type of jacks do you use? How do you distribute the weight in order to keep from damaging the hull? Dick, I thought your description was one of the best I've heard. Thanks for the good advice. jb
could you please describe the system you use for jacking the boat up. What type of jacks do you use? How do you distribute the weight in order to keep from damaging the hull? Dick, I thought your description was one of the best I've heard. Thanks for the good advice. jb
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Dick of Sylvan
Reply re/Jacks
I use an eighty year old screw type house jack at the transom and a modern 2.5 ton haudraulic jack up forward. Both are on big blocks of wood like a chopping blocks, with the tongue pulled forward out of the forward jack's way. Could get by with a single hydraulic jack I suppose by moving it forward and back and blocking a few times along the way. I don't use the floor jack types for this (their wheels must move or else everything moves sideways and my level area is not firm enough for that), although I do use one of those if I lower the keel. Have to be clever in using wooden wedges and shims and padding to spread weight and avoid hull scarring. Also, what I didn't say earlier, is be sure to tighten up keel cable, etc. before launching. Dick
I use an eighty year old screw type house jack at the transom and a modern 2.5 ton haudraulic jack up forward. Both are on big blocks of wood like a chopping blocks, with the tongue pulled forward out of the forward jack's way. Could get by with a single hydraulic jack I suppose by moving it forward and back and blocking a few times along the way. I don't use the floor jack types for this (their wheels must move or else everything moves sideways and my level area is not firm enough for that), although I do use one of those if I lower the keel. Have to be clever in using wooden wedges and shims and padding to spread weight and avoid hull scarring. Also, what I didn't say earlier, is be sure to tighten up keel cable, etc. before launching. Dick
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Dan
one side at a time
I did a bottom job on a Venture a couple years back. It's a lighter boat than a C22, but here's what I did. I used two hydraulic jacks to lift the starboard side up while the port side stayed on the trailer bunk, then I completely did that side, let it cure, and lowered it back down. Then did the same on the port side. Just be damn sure everything is stable before you crawl under there.
I did a bottom job on a Venture a couple years back. It's a lighter boat than a C22, but here's what I did. I used two hydraulic jacks to lift the starboard side up while the port side stayed on the trailer bunk, then I completely did that side, let it cure, and lowered it back down. Then did the same on the port side. Just be damn sure everything is stable before you crawl under there.
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Campy
Boat bottom
An old boat builder friend of mine scoffed at me when I spent a ton of money on bottom paint for my boat. The mega dollar antifouling no grow bottom paint doesn't even get used on my boat. Don (the boat builder) was right. I keep the boat in the water no longer than 2 weeks at a time and trailer it quite frequently to another ramp. The air drying and washing down of the boat that I do, would suffice to clean off any growth or other grum that builds up along the bottom of the boat. Save yourself the extra money if you don't keep her in the water all summer long. She'll probable sail faster as well. Campy
An old boat builder friend of mine scoffed at me when I spent a ton of money on bottom paint for my boat. The mega dollar antifouling no grow bottom paint doesn't even get used on my boat. Don (the boat builder) was right. I keep the boat in the water no longer than 2 weeks at a time and trailer it quite frequently to another ramp. The air drying and washing down of the boat that I do, would suffice to clean off any growth or other grum that builds up along the bottom of the boat. Save yourself the extra money if you don't keep her in the water all summer long. She'll probable sail faster as well. Campy
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ken
raising the boat
Doug............... I am a big fan of keeping things as simple as I can..... here is how I raise the boat off the trailer bunks. Crank your trailer as low as you can get it in the front.......... this lifts the stern about a foot higher than level. Get two 55gallon drums and a railroad tie (they are about 9 inches square and heavy as hell). You can buy the railroad ties at a lumber yard. Put the 2 drums under the stern of the boat and put the railroad tie on top of the barrels and push everything as far forward as possible under the stern. Now.......... go to the bow and raise your trailer up as far as it will go. Presto..... the stern sits on the railroad tie and lifts the boat off the trailer bunk about 5 inches which is enough to sand and paint. Any questions..... email me off list. Good luck! kennethbernard2@attbi.com
Doug............... I am a big fan of keeping things as simple as I can..... here is how I raise the boat off the trailer bunks. Crank your trailer as low as you can get it in the front.......... this lifts the stern about a foot higher than level. Get two 55gallon drums and a railroad tie (they are about 9 inches square and heavy as hell). You can buy the railroad ties at a lumber yard. Put the 2 drums under the stern of the boat and put the railroad tie on top of the barrels and push everything as far forward as possible under the stern. Now.......... go to the bow and raise your trailer up as far as it will go. Presto..... the stern sits on the railroad tie and lifts the boat off the trailer bunk about 5 inches which is enough to sand and paint. Any questions..... email me off list. Good luck! kennethbernard2@attbi.com
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Paul ellis
lowering the bunkboards
I have a Catalina 22 with a wing keel on a performance trailer with 3 vertical adjustible square tubes on each side to hold up the bunkboards. I fasten one side down with the main sheet and a comealong .Then I lower the bunk board on the other side and paint under it. Raise the bunk board back up, move the main sheet and comealong to that side then lower the other bunk board and paint under it. I make sure the trailer is level from side to side before I start. My boat is mostly suported by the keel. Works great for me.
I have a Catalina 22 with a wing keel on a performance trailer with 3 vertical adjustible square tubes on each side to hold up the bunkboards. I fasten one side down with the main sheet and a comealong .Then I lower the bunk board on the other side and paint under it. Raise the bunk board back up, move the main sheet and comealong to that side then lower the other bunk board and paint under it. I make sure the trailer is level from side to side before I start. My boat is mostly suported by the keel. Works great for me.
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tom b
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