What is an economical paint to use for the bottom on an 18.5? Trailer sailer on freshwater lake.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Bottom paint
- Thread starter RDS2012
- Start date
- Status
The paint on the keel was flaking real bad and had lot of rust. I've sandblasted it and need to get it covered again.
If you have any zinc chromate which is the key ingredient or anything with that if it says primer, then apply that to the bare metal and make sure it is clean. Fill in the pits with two part epoxy and then apply 5 coats of epoxy barrier. Let each one dry and lightly sand each coating to get the dust bunnies off. If you are going to trailer the boat alot or leave it in a lake for a short period of time as you say you will, then the need of anti fouling paint is in question but make sure you clean off the hull and keel when the boat is pulled.
Are you on Kerr Lake???
Crazy Dave Condon
Are you on Kerr Lake???
Crazy Dave Condon
I'm sorry for not replying earlier. No I'm not on Kerr. I sail on Clark Hill (Strom Thurmond if you live in SC).
I've looked at bottom paints till my eyes have glazed over from all the selections.
Can you tell me what brand, etc. you would use? As economical as possible.
I've looked at bottom paints till my eyes have glazed over from all the selections.
Can you tell me what brand, etc. you would use? As economical as possible.
Interlux and West Marine produce paints for smaller trailerable boats that I use to apply which is a little softer. I forget the names but when a boat is taken out of the water, the ingredients of the anti fouling properties do not dry out and is effective for the following reason. It is either one of those two I would suggesst to use. You will need to allow each coat to dry as that type of paint takes longer to dry.
Most anti fouling paints will loose their anti fouling properties after the boat is out for 60 days. The above suggestion to paints is recommended on your lake as I use to deliver boats there.
Take the advice on the keel and quickly apply a primer to the metal so it will not oxicize. It use to be called zinc chromate. Then I would apply a two part filler in the holes and sand smooth and then apply barrier coat. Chuckwayne is correct that you need to coat the metal qucikly
crazy
Most anti fouling paints will loose their anti fouling properties after the boat is out for 60 days. The above suggestion to paints is recommended on your lake as I use to deliver boats there.
Take the advice on the keel and quickly apply a primer to the metal so it will not oxicize. It use to be called zinc chromate. Then I would apply a two part filler in the holes and sand smooth and then apply barrier coat. Chuckwayne is correct that you need to coat the metal qucikly
crazy
If you leave the boat in freshwater for the season, Interlux VC 17m Extra would be my choice. Easy to apply and dries fast. No problem if you take the boat out- still effective. There is a rebate on several types of Interlux bottom paints right now:
http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/US_MIR_Rebate_Form_HR.pdf
http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/US_MIR_Rebate_Form_HR.pdf
One more question. I suspect the original bottom paint was ablative. At least its kinda 'chalky'. Do I need to sand it completely off before I apply the VC 17m? Or can I just scuff it good and get by?
ive been told that with the right prep you can paint over ablative paint with ablative paint, but I have never had good luck with the results as after about 2 weeks in the water, it comes off in sheets.
maybe others have had better luck with painting over it and maybe my prep wasnt right, but I know the method I used was a waste of time and money when the whole new coat of paint "ablated" off all at once....
in fresh water there is no real need to paint the bottom, unless you just desire to see a fresh coat of paint on it....
for fresh water, or trailer sailing for a day or two at a time in salt water, I think your money would be better spent in sanding off all the old ablative paint and giving it a good coat of epoxy paint for color and sealing the gelcoat.
the epoxy will keep a smooth surface and last way longer, whereas an ablative paint will cause a bit of drag because of the rough surface texture, and need to be repainted every three to five years.....
maybe others have had better luck with painting over it and maybe my prep wasnt right, but I know the method I used was a waste of time and money when the whole new coat of paint "ablated" off all at once....
in fresh water there is no real need to paint the bottom, unless you just desire to see a fresh coat of paint on it....
for fresh water, or trailer sailing for a day or two at a time in salt water, I think your money would be better spent in sanding off all the old ablative paint and giving it a good coat of epoxy paint for color and sealing the gelcoat.
the epoxy will keep a smooth surface and last way longer, whereas an ablative paint will cause a bit of drag because of the rough surface texture, and need to be repainted every three to five years.....
The VC 17M is a thin, hard, smooth finish, will not rub off like ablative paints. But it evaporates quickly (acetone-based). To keep it from evaporating in the roller pan it I mix the liquid and copper powder in a quart sports bottle with a screw top that has a small spout. I use a narrow roller and squirt only enough paint onto the pan to load up the roller a couple of times. This minimizes evaporation, and also allows you to keep the paint mixed well. I just save the pan and empty bottle for the next time, no need to clean them- the fresh VC 17 will dissolve old paint.
You will need to do 2 coats the first time, then reapply one coat every other season or when you see gelcoat starting to show.
Not sure on this one- might ask Interlux. I suspect they will want a clean bare surface just to be safe.
caverun;
I see you sail my 240. by the way, I have delievered boats to CAVE RUN LAKE in the past. Fair winds and happy sailing.
crazy dave condon
I see you sail my 240. by the way, I have delievered boats to CAVE RUN LAKE in the past. Fair winds and happy sailing.
crazy dave condon
I have the Hunter 18.5 and sail in a lake. Last year I painted the bottom by first scraping and sanding the many layers of old paint, not to remove it but to get it smooth and sand the bare fiberglass in some places. Next I primed the bare spots with automotive spray paint primer. Once prepped, I used Petit Hydrocoat, which is water based ablative paint, easy to apply and easy to clean up. Used a gallon to apply many layers along the waterline and other high wear points.
The keel was in bad shape so I scraped and sanded the best i could then applied this POR-15 paint in two coats to completely seal the keel. Then I used their (POR-15) tie coat then painted it with about 3+ coats of Hydrocoat.
So far so good. Email me if want some details or photos.
Bob
The keel was in bad shape so I scraped and sanded the best i could then applied this POR-15 paint in two coats to completely seal the keel. Then I used their (POR-15) tie coat then painted it with about 3+ coats of Hydrocoat.
So far so good. Email me if want some details or photos.
Bob
caverun, thanks for the info.
bzano, I'd like to see some pictures if you don't mind emailing them to me at ronshultz@covenantmillwork.com
Thanks to all for all the help and information. I really appreciate it.
bzano, I'd like to see some pictures if you don't mind emailing them to me at ronshultz@covenantmillwork.com
Thanks to all for all the help and information. I really appreciate it.
Back in the heyday, Hunter only applied Petit Trinidad to the bottom but really for a clean lake it was not necessary. As for trailerable sailboats without staying in the water except for a few days, I do not recommend it other than to wash off particularly coming out of zebra musscle infested lakes up north. I use to apply West Marine CCP which was designed to be effective if out of the water for example the winter and still goood for the following season.
As for bottom painting, there are many approaches but most will concur with me on metal keels, brush to a clean surface, apply metal primer which is basically zinc chromate under differeent names to prevent rusting, fill in the holes with two part epoxy and the best I found was Water Tite. Sand smooth and then prep the rest of the hull and paint with anti fouling.
After several layers, then the paint needs to be removed. If flaked off in many areas, then take all of the paint off. When a new or clean hull ready for antifouling, two coats is recommended with a third coat around the water line.
crazy dave condon
As for bottom painting, there are many approaches but most will concur with me on metal keels, brush to a clean surface, apply metal primer which is basically zinc chromate under differeent names to prevent rusting, fill in the holes with two part epoxy and the best I found was Water Tite. Sand smooth and then prep the rest of the hull and paint with anti fouling.
After several layers, then the paint needs to be removed. If flaked off in many areas, then take all of the paint off. When a new or clean hull ready for antifouling, two coats is recommended with a third coat around the water line.
crazy dave condon
- Status