Bottom Paint square feet

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Page

I am getting ready to repaint my bottom for the first time by myself at a "do it your self" yard. I have used a product called Sea Hawk Tropikote for the past year and it has worked great so I plan on using it again. The question I have is: What is the square footage of the bottom of an O'day 25 with the center board and rudder? The paint covers 350sq.ft./gal. I want to make sure I have enough to do the job. Also if you have any tips about the center board and slot in reguards to painting it would help. Since I have her out of the water I plan on replacing the pennant at the same time. I have been to 3 yards locally and the going rate for a bottom job for the 25 was between $610 to $750. I am hoping to save a little money and polish up the sides of the boat while I have it out of the water.
 
R

R.W. Landau

One Gallon

Page, One gallon should do just fine. You should be able to get about 2 good coats on and add a third to the wear points like the front of the keel. I am not familiar with that brand but if it is an ablative, you normally get about 1 year of protection per coat of paint. 2 coats sometimes lasts 3 years. That is 6 months in and 6 months out of the water. The boat has a 21 foot water line length and an 8 foot beam. I think that with the varing width it would be about 200 to 250 square feet. I have painted other 25' boats but never my 25. I hope someone will back me up with this. Make sure you prep correctly. If you do not you will do it again soon. r.w.landau
 
M

Mike

One gallon is more than enough

One gallon of the West Marine ablative paint put one coat on my Oday 23, with enough left over to paint the bottom of my father's 14' Boston Whaler. After two years, in LI Sound, I only needed one coat! I love the ablative paint; all that needed to be done was to rough up the existing paint with sandpaper, tape off the waterline and roll on the paint. The whole job took about two hours. I recommend painting a little extra on the leading edge of the bow, rudder and centerboard. When they block your boat, have them set it high enough so that you can drop the centerboard as far as possible to make the painting easier. Sometimes they don't like doing this because they can't have the boat rest on its stub keel (the most stable resting position). However, if the boat is only out for painting, it shouldn't make a difference. Get a couple of those small foam disposable brushes and paint as far up into the trunk as you can. You may have to file off some barnicles first, but this little extra is worth it. Also, for painting in the trunk, DO NOT USE ABLATIVE PAINT. Use hard-shell paint as the ablative paint needs to wear off to be effective. BTW, the prices quoted sound pretty high. If your yard allows you or other contractors to work on your own boat, I would check for independents. Ask other owners for recommendations; I know a guy who advertises as a car detailer, but also waxes boats. He does a great job for about half of what a yard charges. Yacht clubs that don't have a full-service yard of their own are great places to find independent contractors. The clubs in my area allow these guys to work on members' boats, waxing, painting, engine work, etc. Just check the club's bulletin board for their cards, or ask any memeber. Good luck.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.