Bottom Paint Question

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Apr 30, 2013
36
Hunter 35 Michigan
Have had this boat for 6 years, prior boat for 7, both fresh water. Always have used ablative bottom paint. My typical SOP has been in the spring, prior to launch, to do an inspection of what was there, if necessary a light scuff with either a scotch green pad or similar to smooth where necessary and then put a couple of coats of paint on. With the current boat, original ablative was blue and I switched to red, when the red gets to wearing through, and blue starts to peek thru, I know it's time for another coat.

This year, I'm pressed for time with a project at work and talked to the yard where I store (local Hunter dealer) about doing a light sand and paint. He's telling me that the paint is rough, flaking, won't adhere the way it is, and to do it right would be to take it all off back to gel coat, put a barrier coat, and essentially start over. What I thought was going to be a $600-800 job would now be looking at $5000.

So, those that use ablative, is there a point where one needs to start over? I don't have any blister issues, just some spots with flaking paint. I'm not opposed to doing it the "right way', unfortunately not sure it's in the budget this year (or if it's truly necessary or just the yard trying to make a buck).

Thoughts?
 
Sep 6, 2011
82
Oday 322 Hawkestone YC Lake Simcoe
$5000 to scrape and re paint anti foul paint? I would think thats a bit much. Hell even $800 is a lot considering the paint @ 2 gal for a 35 foot boat =about $300 . add in a few hours of sanding and at $100 an hour you should still be under $800. Since you live in Michigan and sail in fresh water I don't see the need to fret about it to the tune of 5 grand....just my frugal thoughts
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,321
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
I'd tell the yard what I want done and ask for an estimate... not ask what they think should be done. You can remove the flaking paint and put primer on the bare spots, then apply your bottom paint. It doesn't sound like you need a barrier coat job.
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
If the ablative paint is flaking there was most likely way to much on there

When I started fresh I have always ablated back to barrier coat on the seasons final powerwash



2010



2011


2012 final before recoating

I will need 6 to 8 hours of elbow grease and enough time to move the pads which is a time killer to recoat
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
It sounds like you are at the point where it is time to start over...but it doesn't have to be this year! Slap some paint on her, go sailing, and know that next winter you have a bottom project to tackle. Start saving the boat bucks.

Get a quote from a soda blaster.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,092
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
The yard may think you are racing and want a perfectly smooth bottom to reduce turbulence (drag). For those of us that just sail around for fun and don't care about a rough bottom, you should just have them scrape off the loose stuff, sand it and paint it. If it has never been barrier coated then go for the big job next winter when the yard or you can have all winter to do it. Barrier coating takes a long time as you need to build up layers and let cure in between each one, so plan on a week of work for preparation and multiple coats.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
My bottom ablative coat was flaking so bad It came off on the roller!
I rolled a new coat right over top! Sure some flaked off onto the roller. But I put it back on with the next pass.
It lasted GREAT! It sat in the water all season and was sailed 4-5 times a week.
If I hadn't been a nut with the power washer in the fall I wouldn't have had to touch it up!
It's not the correct way to do it but it will get you through a season or two.
Note: I did not sand or do any preparation!
! used Aquaguard latex
 
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