Bottom job - what paint and how much?

[PirateLisa]

I just know there's a whole wonderful thread on this somewhere, but my ability to search effectively on this website is :cussing:

I'm a new boat owner, and have never done a bottom job before. We have a 1982 Catalina 30 Tall Rig down in Corpus Christi. We need some help before we get started.


1) What's the best anti-fouling paint for our water and wear?
2) How much should we buy?

• We have no clue what the previous paint is.
• We keep her in salt water around Corpus Christi, TX.
• We take her out on the weekends when the weather permits.
• We want to do the work ourselves.

Help? We're leaning towards the Pettit Trinidad Pro, but at almost $200 a gallon, it would be REALLY helpful to know how much we need.

 

[jimmcgee]

You'll use two gallons on a Catalina 30. I've had good luck with Interlux Micron CSC in salt water in New Jersey. In warmer water you might want to consider Micron Extra with Biolux to reduce slime growth. Your local boat shop can tell you if you need the biolux.

This season I switched over to Petit Hydrocoat. It was a lot easier to work with on the application and is soap and water cleanup. I'm not hauling for another two weeks. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the Interlux.

$200/gallon is about right for any good quality bottom paint. Most brands can be painted over most others as long as you "scuff" the bottom with sandpaper. Scrape off any barnacles and loose paint first (wear gloves), then sand the bottom using drywall sanding screens on a wall board sanding pole. This way you're not under the boat with toxic dust falling into your face. Dip the screens into a 5 gal bucket of water frequently to keep them from clogging -- I found regular sandpaper clogs up when sanding ablative paints.

Wear painting gloves and clothes you don't mind throwing out afterwards. Take your time, the job will take longer than you think.

Also clean/sand the prop shaft and prop, then prime with primocon spray and a good quality prop paint. Make sure to replace your prop zinc and sand off the new paint where it goes onto the shaft so you have good metal to metal contact.

Check with your boat yard. Different states have different regulations about wet/dry sanding and capturing paint chips. Some yards require you to use a power sander with a vacuum attachment to capture all the dust.

Sanding Screens
Pole Sander
Prop Paint
Prop Primer
Prop Zinc

 

[PirateLisa]

Wow, thanks so much jimmcgee! That was a very thorough explanation, and I appreciate you taking the time to type all that. I'm pretty sure I'll need the slime growth retardant, as the water stays warm here all year and slime is a problem. Great advice on the screens, I'll definitely look into those.

On the paint type - should I be using ablative or the epoxy? I'm having a little confusion on picking that part as well.

 

[fstbttms]

On the paint type - should I be using ablative or the epoxy? I'm having a little confusion on picking that part as well.

In your case, probably the only real advantage an ablative has over a hard paint is that with an ablative, you won't build up successive layers of paint over time and bottom jobs. Layers that will (at some point down the road) have to be removed. But know that no ablative will last as long as a properly maintained hard paint like Trinidad.

As with all things boating, it's a compromise.

 

[wufibugs]

The coverage for Blue Water SCX hard and their epoxy primer, as with most primers and topcoats, is about 400 sq ft/gal. For my Hunter 31, the formula I used was lwl X beam X .85, and got about 250 sq ft of bottom to paint. Figuring close to 3 coats from 2 gallons the total from Jamestown for 2 gallons of each was $500 (shipping was free).

 

[Pete_and_Pam]

Recommend you check out Tropikote from Sea Hawk
http://www.seahawkpaints.com/

We have used it on our previous boat (Catalina 42) and on our current boat - Catalina 30. We're in St. Pete, Fl and with the warm water ect... we have found this paint to work the best for us in this part of the Gulf.
Hope this helps.

Good luck to you!

 

[Jayster]

Pirate Lisa,
Did my Ericson 32 this year myself. I had the bottom guy clean the boat the day before I hauled it. Sanded the bottom using 60 grit and an orbital sander. Rinsed it (yes, I trapped the particles and tossed them) and applied Trinidad PRO (SR). Three coats with a fourth on the waterline and rudder. The job turned out as good as any bottom in the yard. Trinidad is about $250/gal. I should get 5 to 6 years out of it in So Cal.

Check out the Practical Sailor test on bottom paint. is it very informative.

 

[PirateLisa]

Thank you SO MUCH everyone! This is great advice and helps me to understand it so much better. I'll start watching for prices on these brands and see what we come up with when the time comes.

 

[jimmcgee]

+1 on the Practical Sailor tests. If you sign up for their web site you can look through the archives and see how the paints performed over a period of years on their test rig. They also are testing in Florida which will be closer to the conditions you'll see.

Best of luck with your new boat !

 

[jrowan]

I second the vote for Petit Trinadad in warm waters such as Florida & the gulf coast.
I also use it. Its expensive but u get what u pay for. Its over 40 % copper content which is the ingredient that prevents marine growth. But I do believe that Pettit is phasing it out for less environmentallly harmful type of bottom paints with less invasive biocides in them.
Having a diver scrape the barnacles at the water line & prop & shaft makes a big difference in bottom paint longevity & sailing performance.
I did not see anyone else mention that you should not apply copper paint to your prop or shaft as it will cause diaelectric corrosion of dissimilar metals. Also I always use a Tyvek type painting suit & disposable gloves & throw it all away after painting. Bottom paint will ruin anything fabric that it touches. Good luck.

 

[fstbttms]

I second the vote for Petit Trinadad in warm waters such as Florida & the gulf coast. Its over 40 % copper content which is the ingredient that prevents marine growth.

Actually, Trinidad comes in at about 60% copper.

I do believe that Pettit is phasing it out for less environmentallly harmful type of bottom paints with less invasive biocides in them.

Not so.

 

[jrowan]

Sorry didn't know that you worked for Pettit,
or are the world's authority on bottom paint.

I just try to offer helpful advice & have used this paint for about 20 years.
Maybe you haven't noticed but all of the bottom paint maufactures are going towards
making less toxic bottom paints, including Pettit. I would think that someone who cleaned bottoms for a living would appreciate that.

ps. To the earlier post about the high price: Trinidad can be bought for a lot less then "$250" a can.

Here's is a link for the paint for $105.00 per gallon online:

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/pett...e-quart.html?gclid=COue7K7L3boCFS4aOgodMUgAJg

but they will charge extra for shipping, because it's so heavy!

 

[fstbttms]

Sorry didn't know that you worked for Pettit,
or are the world's authority on bottom paint.

I'm neither, but I am a stickler for accuracy when it comes to anti fouling paint. Sorry if that upsets your delicate sensibilities.

Maybe you haven't noticed but all of the bottom paint maufactures are going towards making less toxic bottom paints, including Pettit. I would think that someone who cleaned bottoms for a living would appreciate that.

What you said here is true. What is not true is that Pettit is phasing out its Trinidad line of products, which you also said.