Bottom Job _ Help!

[Rick]

I have a '88 H28.5 with no epoxy barrier coat. It has3-4 coats of Micron CSC and it's getting chipped, worn and looks terrible. I've decided to bite the bullet and get down to bare hull, add 4-5 coats (8 - 10 mils) of epoxy barrier and then apply some VC 17 or 18 (Great Lakes).I've been told an easy way to get the bottom paint off is to have a pro come in and "soda blast" it off. Supposed to take the paint off, not hurt the gelcoat, and leave a clean, shiny hull ready for for barrier coat. Aynone used this method? Results?Recommendations on Barrier coat brand? I've heard Interlux is bad stuff. True?Also, What is the best way to coat under the cradle pads/yoke? Should I do everything but under the pads, leaving a roller-width, get all 4 coats on first and then move the pads and do those areas or ???I assume I can get 4 coats of epoxy on in a day or 2, let it dry a week, then put my VC 17 (quick dry) or VC18 (slower dry) on.Ay suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[John Lemke]

No barrier

I have a 1996 336 in Muskegon, MI. For what it's worth, I have never barrier coated my hull. Each year I, and most folks I know at Muskegon Yacht Club, apply a coat of VC-17. It seems to last the whole season, although I do remove any slime about twice a summer.I've never heard of soda blasting. I assume it is more gentle than sand blasting, which I've heard is destructive to gel coat. I suppose you'll have to rely on your yard on that one.VC-17 dries so quickly that the yard will touch up the areas under the cradle pads when they launch the boat. Hope this helps.

 

[Steve O.]

barrier coat

I have always heard that Interlux 2000 is the best barrier coat around. I used VC Tar once and found it hard to work with. If you get it blasted be sure to let the hull dry out good before coating. There are some narrow time windows for re-coatin when using Interlux 2000 so do your homework. You can borrow a jack stand and put it near the cradle pad, then drop the pad and paint under it.

 

[Steve Cook]

No barrier coat

I once asked Jim Bohart about barrier coating a boat in the Great Lakes area and he told me to save the money and use it on beer!!!Our boats are in the water at best, 5 months out of the year. At the warmest, Lake Mich. gets to to what? 65 F.He also stated that Blistering hulls are more of a warm water warm climate problem and when the boat in left in the water for years on end (2 to 5 yrs.)It's just not worth the expence. Thus I did not have epoxy applied on my new H310 when I bought it.I sail my boat on Lake Winnebago and can't really think of any boats up here that have had blister problems. Bohart said that "you either have them or you don't, if you don't, more than likly you wont"Call Mark Hetzel at Racine Riverside marine and ask him what to do. He is a honest straight forward kinda guy. I wished I would have bought my 310 from them. Great Hunter/service dealer.Tell Mark that I sent you, he'll help you out.Steve,s/v The Odyssey...

 

[Rick]

Barrier

I agree that you do not need a barrier coat at this juncture. I have a 1986 with no blisters and have never had a barier coat. I expect warm water will hasten the process but if they haven't appeared in 10+ years,they probably never will. I have seen boats ( not a Hunter)get blisters in the first 1/2 year and my belief it is the layup environment more than anything.Save your money for sandpaper and better bottom paint.

 

[Rick]

To: Steve Cook

I know Mark. I bought my bouight from Pugh's, now Riversoide Marine. Mark has done lots of stuff for me on my boat. I am what you might call "Mechanically Challenged". I'll tell himyou said "Hi!"

 

[Rick]

I would add barrier coat

If your taking all the bottom paint off anyway there is no point in not doing the barrier coat. Getting the old paint off is the biggest problem. Painting a clean bottom is very easy. Interlux is easy to work with. Make sure you stay within the time parameters to get a good chemical bond between coats and avoid sanding between coats. Even with an older boat with no history of blisters I would be concerned about the future. I'm not an expert, but I suspect that the process of removing the old paint may affect the poristy of the gelcoat; potentially leading to future blisters. I'm not aware of any research on this idea, perhaps there are others that have looked into this. Good luck.

 

[Steve Dion]

I agree with Rick.

If you have a clean bottom ready for epoxy, why not do it. Yes, it is going to cost a couple of hundred for the materials but really should not hurt any thing and will give you some protection.I would have the bottom checked with a moisture meter before you apply the bottom coating.Just a note. Everything that I have read indicates that blisters are MORE prevalent in fresh water! I am sure that there is a reason for this but I have no idea why. They also say that if you have not blisters on a boat this old you PROBABLY will not. Being that you pull your boat every season the chances of blisters is minimized.It is also a good selling point if/when you sell the boat too (added value).

 

[Ed Schenck]

Should you blast?

Have heard varying responses to that question. I avoided the issue(and the expense) by doing it myself with a scraper and an orbital sander. And I was told not to bother with barrier coat. But I did that myself too. Feels good to know that under that expensive Trinidad are all those shiny coats of epoxy(Interlux 2000E). Lots of work, 37 feet of it(plus rudder).

 

[R.W.Landau]

You Go Ed!!!

I agree. Ed, I believe you are maintaining the value of your boat. Though sanding might be good and if you do it, you may be more particular with the work.There are alot of people getting into sailing, but I also believe this is the most deceptive things that could be hidden from a prospective buyer. Not only does an owner have time to deal with the problems that come with fiberglass, but they also should protect the new guy from potential problems. If you are one that is going to ask book on thier boat, back it up now with proper maintainance. If a lowballer is trying to buy a boat at minimal cost, with no knowledge of a properly maintained vessel, his just desserts. Ed, may your boat float, and may it sell well when you move to the next one!May you sleep good selling it!r.w.landau

 

[Tim Schaaf]

options

You are probably not going to get blisters....but if you sand all the bottom paint off, you probably should barrier coat; 95% of the important part of the gelcoat, in terms of keeping it from becoming water saturated, is in the very outside 5%. Many brand new boats become susceptible to blistering when their brand-new bottoms are sanded for the initial bottom painting. So, if you get it bare, it is going to be blisters or barrier coating. In that case, follow the particular barrier coat manufacturer's directions completely. Ideally, put on a little more than they recommend...more epoxy is more protection up to a point of about 40 mils..and go six inches above the waterline, then put on a new boot-top. Interlux works great. The 2000 and 3000 have different re-coat times, so pick carefully. Tests have shown the West Systems to also be excellent. These two are the best. Good luck, it is a tedious job but not a hard one.