Boomkicker Installation Specifics for H170

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Jun 3, 2004
33
Hunter 170 -
Hello all, I finally got the boomkicker mounted and have some suprising information to share. I will inlcude all the details for you all to mull over. Also, I have inlcuded an image for your purusal. First of all, it is a snap. Thirty minutes max using only the included Allen wrench, a Phillips screw driver and a saw. The general steps are lay the mast horizontal on the ground, loosen the screws (two screws on each of two mounts) on the Boomkicker mast mounts and slide them up the sail track from the bottom of the mast. Cut the rods to correct dimension. Using the dimensions below, locate the mounts in the proper place and tighten the screws. Tie off the rope which connects the upper mast mount to the boom mount at the proper length (see below) and you are done! Very simple, very easy!!! Now for the details. The Boomkicker K0400 is the model number. First off, I changed from the 7/16" rod to the thinner Boomkicker rods. Two sets are included. Prior posts and Boomkicker's web site suggested the thicker rod, but after I installed the thicker set, I tested the pulling force required to pull it (the factory 4:1 vang is installed) and it took 35 lbs of force to pull the boom down using the vang. Just for the heck of it, I removed those rods and put in the thinner set. Prior to removing the thicker set, I released the vang (so the Boomkicker would push the boom up as far as I have set it for) and measured from the aft end of the boom to the deck (straight down). Then I removed the thicker rods and inserted the thinner ones, set to the same length as the thicker ones. Now I did not mention this yet, but the sail was flaked at this time and tied to the boom. After installing the thinner set I remeasured the distance from the aft end of the boom to the deck. NO CHANGE, thus the thinner set gave me the same support...they did not start to spring with the weight of the flaked sail and the boom. When I force tested the vang pull, 12 pounds of force was required! Thats all I needed to see. The thicker rods provoided no more support and required three times more effort to pull. The thinner rods are the ones to use! Now for the proper dimensions and minutia: 1. Amount of force required to lift the Flaked Sail and Boom immediately above the Boomkicker boom mount equals 30 pounds. 2. Dimension from aft end of boom to deck (straight down) with sail up and vang pulled as tight as possible equals 56 ". This gives us the lowest that the boomkicker will have to actuate the boom to. Also this gives us our baseline of how high the Boomkicker should be set for, Boomkicker suggests 8-10 inches of lift above this dimension, so I set my maximum lift height to 66 inches. 3. I cut the thinner rods 1" so they ended up being 35 1/2" long. 4. For the upper Boomkicker mast mount, I set it so that it touched the Factory Hunter gooseneck mast mounting plate, i.e. you could not slide it up the sail track any higher. 5. The lower Boomkicker mast mount location was as follows. 27 1/2" if measured from the bottom of the mast to the bottom of the Boomkicker mast mount. If you want to verify the placement, you can measure from the bottom of the Hunter Factory gooseneck mounting plate on the mast as mentioned in step 4 above, to the top of the lower Boomkicker mast mount. I came up with 20 3/4 inches for this dimension. Just a check figure. 6. From the aft side of the mast to the front of the nylon webbing (Boomkicker boom fitting), as measured along the Boomkicker rope which connect the two, I set it at 22 1/4". These dimensions should give you a nice 45 degree angle as measured from the mast and the Boomkicker rods. Lastly, two modifications are recommended. The above mentioned rope which connects the Nylon Webbed Boom fitting to the Upper mast mount ties to a small shackle which in turn connect to the upper mast fitting pad eye. Replace the shackle with a snap so you do not have to deal with the 3/16" pin and split ring. Costs you a few bucks. Also, the rods are secured in the lower mast mount with a 2" x 1/4" pin and split ring. Replace this with the same dimension quick release pin if you plan to remove this frequently. Personally I think that split rings are a joke sent to us by the devil himself!!! I hate them! I am open to suggestions on this point, but all screws and bolts should be treated with a treadlock to keep them from worming out. Here is a picture. Hope this helps. Godspeed, Rusty
 
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bly

Boomkicker sold here

The Boomkicker has been a very popular product and we sell them here in our Chandleries at very competitive prices. You wil find them listed under the Spars and Rigging tab. Check them out!
 
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Rick S.

Boomkicker, motor transport

Rusty, Thanks for the detailed report on the boomkicker installation. Mine arrived yesterday and I'll be installing it soon -- with the smaller rods, as you suggested. Out of curiousity, I set my boom on a level floor with a 2x4 under the gooseneck end and a bathroom scale under the aft end. When I laid the mainsail -- furled and still in the storage bag -- along the top of the boom, the scale read 8.5 lbs. I'm guessing that when set up and fully rigged, the force required to lift the aft end of the boom will still be under 10 lbs. I've been looking for a good place to attach a mount to my Karavan trailer to transport my 2hp motor, and have settled on the front bunk board, which projects far enough sideways from under the bow to hang the motor horizontally by the clamp. I reinforced the bunk board with a piece of painted flat steel, 1/4" by 1 1/4" by 24", lag-bolted to the front edge, low enough so that the keel won't scrape it. I left the carpet in place. As soon as I've put some miles on this set-up and can say for sure that it works, or doesn't, I'll post a follow-up and maybe a photo.
 
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