The cable that attaches to the clew on the main sail is frayed pretty badly. The boat is a Islander 26. Are these a real pain to change out for a mechanical minded guy, or should I have someone do it for me.
Boom wire/cable
- Thread starter LittleCreek
- Start date
It should be a fairly easy task. Cut off the old end fitting, splice/ attach the new wire rope to the old one and pull it through the boom with the old.. Borrow a swage tool to attach new end fittings, or find Norseman fittings that will work with the small diameter wire rope. The potential glitch is knowing the length of wire rope you'll need depending on the presence of any multi part blocks inside the boom.
On the other hand, you might consider replacing the wire rope with high strength/low stretch cordage like dyneema or similar. That's easier yet.
On the other hand, you might consider replacing the wire rope with high strength/low stretch cordage like dyneema or similar. That's easier yet.
I would cut it and attach a messenger line, then pull it through to get a measurement. I would also second the recomondation to use Amsteel instead of wire for the replacement. There are some great videos on splicing and it is very easy to do. You might even do the topping lift at the same time and be done with wire, Steve.
Before you start cutting and threading, you need to know the exact configuration of the system inside the boom. A typical internal outhaul system (you said "clew" connection, right?) has an internal cascade purchase set up.. the wire you see is NOT connected directly to the rope control line... you cannot splice then together... look at the pictures:
So.... if you can't find specs on your boat... which would include a diagram of the internal outhaul.. you at least need to take a look inside the boom. That would mean removing the end cap.. which I notice is fixed with pop rivets... drill those out and take a look. Also look for attachment points in the boom for the other parts of the cascade for clues. In my catalina 27 there is a forward static line, that when released allows you to pull the entire rig out... it is also used to adjust the position of the tackle inside. When you replace the end cap, instead of rivets, use self tapping screws with some Loctite.
That said.... if you are talking about the "topping lift" then the system may be much simpler and may even be one continuous line.... but is more likely a 2:1 purchase similar to pic one.
So.... if you can't find specs on your boat... which would include a diagram of the internal outhaul.. you at least need to take a look inside the boom. That would mean removing the end cap.. which I notice is fixed with pop rivets... drill those out and take a look. Also look for attachment points in the boom for the other parts of the cascade for clues. In my catalina 27 there is a forward static line, that when released allows you to pull the entire rig out... it is also used to adjust the position of the tackle inside. When you replace the end cap, instead of rivets, use self tapping screws with some Loctite.
That said.... if you are talking about the "topping lift" then the system may be much simpler and may even be one continuous line.... but is more likely a 2:1 purchase similar to pic one.
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Thank you all for the responses. I will pop the end cap and see what exactly I have going on inside the boom.
I am sorry for posting such simplistic advice. Everything is pretty simple and out in the open on my boat. I would still advise switching to high tech line over wire if you do need to replace it. Wire is great for standing rigging and life lines but not much else beyond that in my opinion, Steve.
I do agree that replacing wire with spectra/dyneema line will be an advantage in most applications.... the reason wire was used in the boom outhaul is to save room.... if you replace all wire sections with the same diameter spectra you will be fine. Here's a diagram of the Catalina 270 boom.. showing outhaul and reefing arrangement.. notice he extra sheave on the forward outhaul control... Yours is probably different, but it is an example of the various ways these devices can be set up. Sorry for the rotated image...
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