Boom Vang for Spirit 23

[Lodi47]

I just purchased a Spirit 23 with very basic rigging. There is no boom vang and I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for purchasing one. In addition the main and jib halyards tie off on the mast and I was thinking that if they came back to the cockpit it would be easier to sail alone.

As always your knowledge and experience is always appreciated....

 

[Steve Dion]

Boom vang - try Garhauer Marine

Moving lines to cockpit can be expensive.

 

[Lodi47]

Hey thanks, I checked them out and they have some non-rigid boom vangs that seem reasonable, i need to research the size limit i need.

 

[Tom G P-21]

I agree, Garhauer for the boom vang. Do you have the hardware on the boom and the base of the mast to install it? I also used their hardware to run the halyards back to the cockpit, this year. Best thing I did to make it easier to single hand. To do this I used a halyard lift block, cheek block, and rope clutch per side. I have a hanked on jib, so I had to do both. If you have a hanked on jib you'll also need to rig a downhaul. Also, you'll need new halyards for the longer length.

 

[Lodi47]

Tom G,
This sounds like what I want to do, do yu have any pictures handy? I also have a hanked on jib.
Rick

 

[kloudie1]

Lodi.. Great boat ! I bought a brand new one in 1978 and sailed it a good bit over the Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi coast.. Lots of rom for a 23 and she sails very well. Owned it until 1991 when I bought the H-34.
There should be hardware to attach a "soft" vang since that was a factory option.. mine was a four part system with a cam cleat on the bottom pulley. I don't have pictures.. except non-digitized 35mm slides..

 

[Tom G P-21]

Here are some pictures

They are not from my boat but I used them to lay out what I wanted to do. They are also from a Precision 21.

First the Halyard block lined up with the pulley in the mast;

Second picture is the cheek block for turning the corner. This is from the bow looking aft, the bump is from cabin hatch just behind it. Note I installed this last on my boat.



The third picture is the rope clutch between the hatch and the handrails. If you have winches on the cabin roof you want these to line up with them. This way you can use the winches to do the last little crank on the sail to get it raised. Pictured are Ronstans but I used Garhauers.



So what I did was install the halyard block and the rope clutch first. Then I placed the cheek block in the approximate position and then ran a string from halyard block through the cheek black to the clutch. I moved the cheek block around to make sure the rope would make the turn cleanly. I marked the location and installed it. Note I was able to get a hold of some aluminum plates for backing plates.

 

[Lodi47]

Re: Here are some pictures

Wow, thanks for the great info I thought this what I had to do.

 

[Lodi47]

Yes a soft vang will work. The mast is marked for a cunningham, did you have one?

 

[kloudie1]

Yes, I had a Cunningham and I had installed an adjustable backstay tensioner.
Mine was a pop-top, so running lines to cockpit wasn't an easy option.
I had rigged a line that enabled me to secure the tiller, so handling the mast mounted halyards wasn't that much of a problem. A Tillerpilot would be a great addition ! Had a 7.5 hp Honda long shaft that was perfect for the boat.
Had problems with leaking chainplates and windows.. got those properly sealed and had no more leaks. The forward hatch was a problem .. the original prism-shaped cover was smoked Lexan which got attacked by the sun and crazed and cracked.. Many owners carefully fiber glassed over the Lexan. Some owners made a plaster-of-paris mold of the original and fabricated a new cover of thicker, UV stabilized material.
Had a problem with the noise of the centerboard so made some big washers of scrap Teflon to keep it true in the stub keel slot..
The Spirit is a fine sailing, stout boat..

Edit.. I see yours is a pop-top too.. I am not sure I'd trust the top securing hardware to handle the rope forces, if halyards led to cockpit.

 

[Dave Groshong]

We offer many different block choices, here's an example of a vang kit that will work fine on your boat:

http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=216&c=6&p=54788

 

[Tom G P-21]

Couple of things I should add.

When installing the clutch make sure you open it up so you know the handle won't interfere with anything ( i.e. hatch or handrail).

I highly recommend that you use Mainesails butyl tape to install the hardware. See Mainesails thread.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172

IF you need to buy new halyards you can get them right here at the shop.

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail-rigging.php

 

[Lodi47]

yes mie is a pop top Trying to figure out how to load pics on here.

 

[Lodi47]

Here are some pics

 

[Tom G P-21]

It looks like someone has run the halyards to the cockpit

for a Spirit 23. See this listing in sailing Texas.

http://www.sailingtexas.com/sspirit23a.html

 

[kloudie1]

Looks like he did a fine job of keeping the halyard out of the way as well.. Lodi, Looks like what you are thinking.. don't put anything on the pop top..
That is an early model with the settee on port and no gas tank locker to starboard in the cockpit.

 

[Brian S]

There's always a big debate on the merits of running lines to the cockpit.

I personally like having the main halyard at the mast. I need to be there to reef the main, and if there were a hockle in the halyard at the clutch when I'm trying to get the main down and the tack reef point on the gooseneck hook, I would be beyond annoyed.

For a hank on jib, I don't think there is as much a problem with lines led aft, provided you have a jib downhaul rigged and cleated close to the halyard cleat/clutch. For a smaller boat, running lines aft can be problematic; for mine, the hatch slider risers make cabin top mounted hardware problematic.

Since I have external halyards, it was very easy for me to add a swiveling cam cleat for my asym halyard. With a bit of extra line, it allows me to hoist and douse from the back of the house if I want. I like the arrangement so much, I will be adding one for my jib halyard.

The biggest drawback to the the swiveling cam cleat surface riveted to the mast, is that I won't be able to hang the excess halyard on the cleat like I do with the horn cleat. I suppose I could just stuff it into a Davis mesh suction cup bag stuck to the back of the house. (I'd use this type rather than fixed, because I'd like to remove it, so it's smooth so I can lean up against the house when lounging in the cockpit.