I have a aluminium boom and its luster has faded off, I have tried all kinds of products, none of them work: any suggestions. Spring is comming, beleive it or not, and I want to be ready.
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Faded Boom and Mast
John, I too have aluminum. Mine is a faded gold-tone color, but the top edge of the boom and the entire top third or forth of the mast has faded to a dull grey aluminum color. What do you sailors suggest to make it look better? Thanks, Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
John, I too have aluminum. Mine is a faded gold-tone color, but the top edge of the boom and the entire top third or forth of the mast has faded to a dull grey aluminum color. What do you sailors suggest to make it look better? Thanks, Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
Paint the boom
Sand it with 220 grit, clean it well, and spray paint with Appliance White. Ain't real yachty, but works fine. If it's an old boat, don't try to remove old cleats, etc. You will turn a 2 hour job into a serious project.
Sand it with 220 grit, clean it well, and spray paint with Appliance White. Ain't real yachty, but works fine. If it's an old boat, don't try to remove old cleats, etc. You will turn a 2 hour job into a serious project.
Paint
My mast and boom looked real bad. Pitted, dark color, and corrosion. It is a project to do correctly. Probably the hardest part was removing all the hardware from the spars. Most of the screws were impossible to take off without drilling them out. The boom end caps were also difficult. I thought of just leaving them on, but I plan on keeping the boat a few years and was concerned about crevice corrosion on the fittings. Make sure you sand well and etch the aluminum. Do a good job on prep., prime coat, and give it 4 good coats of Imron Paint. This should be good for 10 years. Resale value?
My mast and boom looked real bad. Pitted, dark color, and corrosion. It is a project to do correctly. Probably the hardest part was removing all the hardware from the spars. Most of the screws were impossible to take off without drilling them out. The boom end caps were also difficult. I thought of just leaving them on, but I plan on keeping the boat a few years and was concerned about crevice corrosion on the fittings. Make sure you sand well and etch the aluminum. Do a good job on prep., prime coat, and give it 4 good coats of Imron Paint. This should be good for 10 years. Resale value?
Boom Painting
I agree with Ron. To do a proper job requires considerable time and energy. I repainted a mast a few years ago and found, the hard way, that this is no place to take shortcuts.....especially if you intend on keeping the boat. I would add to Ron's suggestions by recommending you use some kind of gasket or film between the stainless fittings and the aluminium boom whever possible, to help prevent corrosion. I also used a thin film of silicon on the screws and bolts for the same purpose. The mistake I made , after properly preping and priming the mast, which took considerable time, was using a good one part paint instead of Imron, or some other two part epoxy paint. I was anxious to get in the water early and did not want to wait for the correct temperature required for the appliation of epoxy paint. Your situation is a little less critical since it involves only the boom, however, be aware that If you do not do the job correctly you will have to do it all over again in 2 or 3 years. One further thought, although it is possible to do a really good job by using a good brush you might want to consider the ease and other benefits of using a sprayer. PAT
I agree with Ron. To do a proper job requires considerable time and energy. I repainted a mast a few years ago and found, the hard way, that this is no place to take shortcuts.....especially if you intend on keeping the boat. I would add to Ron's suggestions by recommending you use some kind of gasket or film between the stainless fittings and the aluminium boom whever possible, to help prevent corrosion. I also used a thin film of silicon on the screws and bolts for the same purpose. The mistake I made , after properly preping and priming the mast, which took considerable time, was using a good one part paint instead of Imron, or some other two part epoxy paint. I was anxious to get in the water early and did not want to wait for the correct temperature required for the appliation of epoxy paint. Your situation is a little less critical since it involves only the boom, however, be aware that If you do not do the job correctly you will have to do it all over again in 2 or 3 years. One further thought, although it is possible to do a really good job by using a good brush you might want to consider the ease and other benefits of using a sprayer. PAT
Spray and Wipe
I use a product called Corrosion Block by Lear Chemical that comes in a 12 ounce spray can (from WM for $17). I spray a small section the mast (or boom) and then I wipe it around with paper towels. Works great, made a 3 year old mast look like new. I redo them once a year to keep them shining. While I'm in the Bosun’s chair, I inspect the mast and also spray the sail track with Teflon spray. Corrosion Block is both a lubricant and corrosion inhibitor. Dust and dirt doesn't stick to it and leaves no marks on the sail. Just be sure to use lot of paper towels and give the mast a good rub down. I also use it on everything metal on board with great results. It penetrates and dissolves salt-water corrosion.
I use a product called Corrosion Block by Lear Chemical that comes in a 12 ounce spray can (from WM for $17). I spray a small section the mast (or boom) and then I wipe it around with paper towels. Works great, made a 3 year old mast look like new. I redo them once a year to keep them shining. While I'm in the Bosun’s chair, I inspect the mast and also spray the sail track with Teflon spray. Corrosion Block is both a lubricant and corrosion inhibitor. Dust and dirt doesn't stick to it and leaves no marks on the sail. Just be sure to use lot of paper towels and give the mast a good rub down. I also use it on everything metal on board with great results. It penetrates and dissolves salt-water corrosion.
clean
use soap and water then wipe it down with car wax to get a shine. if the anodizing has gone away all you can do is have it re-anodized or paint it. john
use soap and water then wipe it down with car wax to get a shine. if the anodizing has gone away all you can do is have it re-anodized or paint it. john
Mr. Douglas
John, I used a product that was recomended by a marina neighbor. It is called Mr. Douglas, it is an all purpose metal cleaner and I bought it at the Annapolis Boat Show. There is a phone number on the can if you decide to try it, email me. I agree with Mickey McHugh in his reply to try a chemical treatment. I would not paint an anodized finish unless all else failed! Good Luck and Happy Sailing, Mike D
John, I used a product that was recomended by a marina neighbor. It is called Mr. Douglas, it is an all purpose metal cleaner and I bought it at the Annapolis Boat Show. There is a phone number on the can if you decide to try it, email me. I agree with Mickey McHugh in his reply to try a chemical treatment. I would not paint an anodized finish unless all else failed! Good Luck and Happy Sailing, Mike D
If you do paint ....
.... recommend a two-part system. I also had experience with a one-part that was 'just as good' and it isn't worth it. My neighbor painted his mast last summer with two-part and a brush (don't know the system) and it looks great - no runs either. Took the mast off the boat. As for corrosion inhibitors for stainless fastners in aluminum, two more are Lanocote and Never Seze (West Marine brand). Anyone who buys a new boat should remove all stainless fastners in aluminum and coat them, that is if they ever want to take them apart again. This include the rudder quadrant.
.... recommend a two-part system. I also had experience with a one-part that was 'just as good' and it isn't worth it. My neighbor painted his mast last summer with two-part and a brush (don't know the system) and it looks great - no runs either. Took the mast off the boat. As for corrosion inhibitors for stainless fastners in aluminum, two more are Lanocote and Never Seze (West Marine brand). Anyone who buys a new boat should remove all stainless fastners in aluminum and coat them, that is if they ever want to take them apart again. This include the rudder quadrant.
Boom painting
The C30 I bought last April had a lot of cosmetic problems with the boom. I set up a temporary paint spray booth in my garage, removed the boom and spray painted it with a high quality one part polyurathane paint. After 2 coats I reinstalled the boom and it is still looking great, after almost a year of heavy use.
The C30 I bought last April had a lot of cosmetic problems with the boom. I set up a temporary paint spray booth in my garage, removed the boom and spray painted it with a high quality one part polyurathane paint. After 2 coats I reinstalled the boom and it is still looking great, after almost a year of heavy use.
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