Bomar hatch lens.

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Aug 27, 2011
408
Catalina 27 Titusville, FL
I have the 10 inch square Bomar hatches on the top of the deck, just about on either side of the mast on our 27.

They are dull and loose in the frames, one leaks a tiny bit, and the frames are nasty.

I would love to pull them out, remove the glass/lens and have the frames powder coated, and replace the acrylic lens.

I have yet to find the replacement lenses, anyone have any experience with this?
:confused::confused:
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Neal, I redid my larger Bomar hatch last year and it was written up in a recent Mainsheet magazine (C34 Technical section). Our lens was OK and not loose or leaking. You can most likely get a replacement lens at a local plastic shop, which is what I've read many skippers have done. I didn't bother powder coating the frame, just used gloss spray paint. If you'd like, I can send you the full text, pm me.
 
Aug 27, 2011
408
Catalina 27 Titusville, FL
Thanks Stu. I will bead blast them, then Alumaprep and Alodine them and have the local powder coater hit them for me. We bring some aircraft stuff to them, they do a great job super cheap.

I figured the glass was something special. Guess not. I might just do it myself then. I assume you use something like 5200/Satans glue to put the lens in the frame?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Neil, you may know how I feel about Satan's Glue! :) I wouldn't, but that's just me. Where the heck would the lens wanna go? I'd try the window sealant Dow 795 (I think that's the right # - not for sure, though). Someone else who has experienced this issue might be a better source than me.

Good luck.
 
Nov 7, 2012
678
1978 Catalina 30 Wilbur-by-the-Sea
If you find a good source and iit saves money to order 4 let me know, I could use 2.
 
Aug 27, 2011
408
Catalina 27 Titusville, FL
Rog that Gary. Will do. If I make a pattern, and I buy a chunk of plexiglass, I'll make a bunch of them.
 

bnewt

.
Sep 26, 2012
13
Catalina 30 Dartmouth, MA
Just replaced all 3 Bomar hatch lens this past season. I replaced the acrylic with polycarbonate (Makrolon) in a gray tint they called "Bronze". Found the poly online at ePlastics.com. They have many colors available and I bought a half sheet 48"x48" that cost about $90-$100. Cut the poly on the table saw then rounded the corners using a grinding wheel. Used Dow 795 sealant and came out great! I also replaced the rubber gaskets and now no leaks. Took no time at all. Very pleased with the outcome. Only mistake I made was to use the same color for all hatches including the one in the head. Now I just have to keep the guys off the deck when a women uses the head! Oh well, couldn't think of everything.
 
Aug 27, 2011
408
Catalina 27 Titusville, FL
I'll measure up what I need and let you know. I like the .236 inch thick 12x12 pieces.

I saw your boat missing from the dock the other day, did you go out sailing or did you haul it out already?

Neal
 
Jul 28, 2009
38
Catalina 27 Lake George NY
I did this project last summer on my 27.

I removed them from the boat, for the frames, I disassembled everything, stripped them to bare metal and refinished with rustoleum etching primer (3 coats) over coated with rustoleum gloss white (4 coats). For the lenses I fabricated new ones from "bronze" 3/16 inch acrylic obtained from usplastic.com. I had the lenses cut on a friends CNC laser cutter however a good flush trim router bit would also work well or a table saw, etc.. (there are plenty of ways to cut acrylic). I used boatlife LifeSeal caulk to "glue" in the lenses.


After this restoration the difference was dramatic enough that the comments I got on the dock were not, "nice job on the old hatches" but "the NEW hatches look great"

I completed this in May 2013 and after a season of use they still look as good as the day I re installed them, the paint has held up perfectly as well as the lenses and caulk. I have had no issues with leaks / separation of the acrylic.

Unfortunately I never took any close up shots of the hatches and the boat is presently covered for the winter so I cane get any anytime soon.

-Eric
 
Nov 7, 2012
678
1978 Catalina 30 Wilbur-by-the-Sea
I'll measure up what I need and let you know. I like the .236 inch thick 12x12 pieces.

I saw your boat missing from the dock the other day, did you go out sailing or did you haul it out already?

Neal
Took her to Westland last Sunday and she was scheduled to have her mast unstepped and be pulled out today.

We will be out this weekend staying on the Clew and working on the Genji. I will be try to pull those hatches this week otherwise it will be a bit as we have other plans for the weekend of the 17th.

Gary
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
To add: I used Maine Sail's butyl tape to bed the frame. Only thing I use anymore.
 
Aug 27, 2011
408
Catalina 27 Titusville, FL
Took her to Westland last Sunday and she was scheduled to have her mast unstepped and be pulled out today.

We will be out this weekend staying on the Clew and working on the Genji. I will be try to pull those hatches this week otherwise it will be a bit as we have other plans for the weekend of the 17th.

Gary
I'll swing by when I am done flying jumpers and see ya over at Westland.:dance:
 
Nov 7, 2012
678
1978 Catalina 30 Wilbur-by-the-Sea
Stu,

I believe my ports are bedded in with the above mentioned 5200. Any suggestions on easing the removal process?

I have plenty of butyl to re bed.

Gary
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,132
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Gary, here's my experience:

I removed the hatch from the boat and brought it home. Removal consisted of backing out the 16 screws in the frame and then gently prying the frame loose from the cabintop. I remembered the instructions for removing our Beckson portlights which included: “Do not force it. Apply steady but firm pressure and it should back out.” Although this idea was for sealant, the same proved to be true for the “glue” that held the hatch frame. I gently hammered two large screwdrivers into two of the corners and started lifting. As the hatch started to come out, I moved the screwdrivers to the opposite corners and did the same, leaving wood shims in the first two raised corners. After about ten minutes of lifting the corners the hatch started to come slowly away from the glue, and then it was easy to just wiggle it up and out.

Much of the paint and glue from the lip of the hatch remained embedded on the deck, inside the opening and on the match frame. The good news was that there was no evidence of water damage in the core plywood, between the headliner below and the fiberglass deck above.


What was there? For starters, NO sealant!!! There was a completely uneven application of a light brown substance that, based on previous comments on the Message Board, was reputed to be 3M 5200, also known as “Satan’s Glue.” After 26 years, it wasn’t holding much anymore.

I took the hatch home after placing a 5’ x 7’ tarp over the hole, secured with light line and rolling hitches to the handrails and one around the mast. This size tarp works almost perfectly to fit between the deck handrails.

I purchased some Goof Off, which reputedly is good for removing the 5200. It did work on the hatch, but it was time consuming. For cleaning up the deck and the hole on the boat I used a heat gun and a putty knife. That was much faster than the Goof Off, and it lifted the paint as well as the remaining glue. It took at least three passes over the deck to remove every bit of debris and ready it for the acetone.

[Added]

The Main Message Board and the Pompanette website include this about Bomar hatches:

Bomar states the following suggestion to deal with 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive that may become a factor:

Removing Hatches and Portlights Bedded in Polyurethane Adhesives.

Many boat manufactures in the past and present use 3M 5200 or a similar polyurethane adhesive to install hatches and portlights. This is great for providing a good water tight seal but it makes removing the hatch or port very difficult without damaging the gelcoat.

There is a product on the market called Anti-Bond 2015 that may help. Anti-Bond 2015 that maybe the solution. Anti-Bond 2015 can be sprayed on 3M 5200 causing it to debond without any delamination of the boat's gelcoat.


We didn’t need to use any Anti-Bond 2015 to remove the glue. The gelcoat was undamaged. If your hatch refuses to move, then it would seem a good material to use.
 

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Nov 7, 2012
678
1978 Catalina 30 Wilbur-by-the-Sea
Thanks Stu,
Something to think on for sure.


Neal, we just ordered 2 of the gray transparent, they will not get here before the weekend but we shall see what they are like.
 
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