Boathook

[All U Get]

Hi all,

I did a search for boathooks and didn't find much, probably they way I search. What I was looking for was any way to lube them or take them apart. I was doing the rinse only method on the three aluminum ones I have, now there's one in the fix-it pile. Of course the plastic hook would have broken anyway so its time to tear that one apart. I rubbed the others with a Scotch pad which helps a little, but they don't work like a new one. Any good ideas?

All U Get

 

[woodster]

i have a garelick and its ok as boat hooks go its about 9 ft extended but they all will hang up if tightened to hard

 

[Brian S]

Do you know how they work? Just asking. They are probably just like aluminum hiking poles we have to deal with at the outdoor equipment store from time to time. There's a threaded conical shaped tip on the inner section, with a 2 part threaded expansion piece of plastic. When you twist to tighten, there's enough friction to hold the 2 piece expansion piece in place, and allow the inner cone to push up inside, wedging open the expansion piece and holding at the given length. It's possible that the inside of the larger section has become rough from corrosion, and even loosened so the sections slide, it doesn't slide so well anymore. These pieces are cheap, and the aluminum probably isn't anodized at all, so the corrosion happens with salt water. I think some of these poles may be put into a press to make a ring around the larger section, making it difficult to pull it all the way apart. They would be pressed like that after the sections, and expansion unit, are assembled. If you could get the sections apart, rigging some kind of Scotch Brite pad reaming tool (maybe even a gun cleaning kit, for that matter) might reduce corrosion on the inside of the larger section, but I wonder what kind of lube one would use... WD-40 would displace the water and leave a thin film of light oil. I wonder if some form of spray wax would be good, and stay longer. (I don't know of any brands of said spray wax.) Maybe it's just easier, though less satisfactory, to use the crap out of it, then eventually have to get a new one?

 

[Terry Cox]

Our boat has three Garelick boat hooks; one below as a spare and two in the cockpit. One is a bit shorter because I have broken the hook two times from frequent use. Garelick guarantees their hooks from breakage and they have stood by that guarantee.

Other than rinsing with fresh water once in awhile, all of our cruising is in sea water. These hooks always work, slide smoothly and lock well. The original cast aluminum tip has been replaced with plastic, just as strong as the original.

Contact Garelick, perhaps they have some lubricate advice. Never needed to use any on ours. Highly recommend the Garelick brand hook. How I broke the hook two times is another story.

 

[Terry Cox]

Wifey and I were on our way back from a week long cruise a few years ago. A southerly blow appeared in the forecast so we headed for the lee side of Spencer Spit for some protection. By the time we arrived the wind had picked up pretty good. As I approached one of the mooring balls wifey is ready with the boat hook. Even head into the wind, it would catch the high freeboard bow and push us away, wifey unable to snatch the mooring ring. So, the second time I dashed to the bow and snatched the ring with the hook, raised the mooring ring and rested the hook tip on the inside of the toe rail so that I could thread the line through the ring.

Belle-Vie only weighs in at 35,000 pounds, more than the cast aluminum tip could handle; snap and plunk before I could thread the line through the ring.. Third try we succeeded with the backup hook and settled in for a lumpy night, but at least we were able to weather out the storm that evening.

The second time happened in Garrison Bay last year. As I brought up the anchor the chain had tangled around the flutes. I use the same boat hook with a new plastic tip to grab the anchor in such a way as to release the chain. In doing so the hook end jammed into the anchor shaft in such a way as to prevent a release. A combination of the 40 pound anchor, a 20 pound kellet plus 50 feet of chain was more than the hook could handle. It just twisted right off. The spare hook was able to get the anchor untangled.

After explaining what happened in an e-mail to a nice Garelick representative, she sent me a new hook. All is well again albeit a bit shorter than before, but still long enough to do the job.

This particular hook I salvaged from a dumpster several years ago. The reason it ended up where it did was because the owner had bent the first section close to the end. In doing so it would not collapse, so I took it home, cut the bent part off, got a new end from Garelick and ended up with a very nice still serviceable boat hook.

 

[pateco]

I have three on my boat, from who knows manufacturers. one came with her, and the other two were trash picked over the years. You can never have too many.

 

[capta]

If you've got a serious need for a boat hook, you need a serious boat hook. The last thing you want is for it to fail when you need it most.
Buy a real wood boat hook with a bronze end. Varnish it up nicely and display it. It will look cool, and it will never fail you when you need it.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

If you've got a serious need for a boat hook, you need a serious boat hook. The last thing you want is for it to fail when you need it most.
Buy a real wood boat hook with a bronze end. Varnish it up nicely and display it. It will look cool, and it will never fail you when you need it.

Agree except, disagree on the varnish. Paint it white. Why? Ever try to find a varnished pole in the water at night? That's why my dinghy oars are painted white also.

 

[All U Get]

The real kick in the butt was that I had cleaned the one that I broke and it was working fine. Before putting it back on deck I showed my wife how well it was working and the second section would only come out 8-10 inches. After working it a few more times with no better results I pulled the hook against a dock cleat. Yep that'll break 'em.

Capta I should have asked for an old wooden pike pole from the back closet of the fire station when I retired instead of the engraved leather bucket they gave me. Although the leather bucket looks as good as any in the Smithsonian.

All U Get

 

[Terry Cox]

Pike pole...no thanks here. Sharp pointy tip and hook ends on a long rigid pole used for moving logs about on the water, my first real job in high school. As well as wearing cork logger boots on a boat deck to keep from sliding about. I'll take my Garelick boat hook any day, thank you.

 

[NiceBeny]

have you heard of "happy hooker"? it will pit your line through a ring and back to you, awesome!! pricy for what it is but everything on a boat is

 

[All U Get]

have you heard of "happy hooker"? it will pit your line through a ring and back to you, awesome!! pricy for what it is but everything on a boat is

Yes we have one that works well on rings, but there aren't many rings to be found while traveling. If the hole is a bit small or rusty on the anchor point, you can get the hook caught and not be able to back it out. While it is sturdy my wife finds it a bit too heavy to reach with the full extension. For us its a limited use application.

All U Get

 

[dscribner]

The ones I've taken apart have the compulsory split compression fitting on one end and a swage on the other. As the assembly slides inside the next larger tube, the swage prevents the tube from passing all the way through and into the water. The only way to disassemble is remove the hook and handle and start sliding them apart. The split compression fittings may be riveted in place. You should use an abrasive finer than scotchbrite though. I'd try 1000 or 2000 grit sand paper to see if that was a little better.