I've put up a few posts over the past few years concerning my boat's refusal to start properly.
Typical issue with Atomic 4, mid 70's boat. I would turn key and wouldn't get anything. Over the past few years, I replaced the coil, points and I had already rewired most of the original wiring in the boat.
I did have 2 of the old style trailer hitch connectors still active. One behind the drawers in the galley and one in the engine bay. All of the wiring from the gauges and ignition were new and lead to a terminal strip. All of the grounding is new too.
Well a month ago the same problem arose, I had replaced the key last year and thought I fixed it. Now the only way to start the boat was to hot wire it, which is not a reasonable solution!
Last week I replaced the battery wire from the key to the starter with brand new 4 gauge wire...straight through no breaks. I reran the purple and white wires (as they are shown in the manual) with new 12 gauge wiring, again no breaks. I triple checked all the grounds and continuity is perfect. The only 2 wires left using the trailer hitch connectors are the temp and oil pressure senders, I'll fix them next spring.
Once I did that, it did start, but as before I kind of had to finesse the key to get it to start.
This Friday it wouldn't start again but I hadn't been sailing in weeks and decided to go out via hot wire.
Today I pulled the gauge panel again and RECHECKED every damn ground and connection. I finally pulled every wire from the ignition adn put them on a spare key set I had. Boat started right up.
Hmmm...so it was the key set? Again? What the heck.
Before I switched out key sets again, I tried one more time to rewire the ignition set that was in place. When I went to put the battery wire on the ignition I touched the side of the brass housing of the key set and I got a spark.
Why would that happen? Why would it short out on the side of the key like that. I took the spare set and used the multi meter to see if this was so. Nope...no continuity there.
Then why on the installed key set? In fact, I was getting continuity on the key set housing AND the brass housings of all the gauges in the panel!!!
What?
Then it dawned on me...when I moved the gauge panel from low in the cockpit to the back I ordered a new panel from Front Panel Express.
....I used aluminum
The key threads were directly touching the panel which also held the fuel/volt/temp/pressure gauges...all grounded properly.
I had inadvertently created a problem where I was cross connecting everything when I started boat.
...I think
Well either way, I went back home, got my Dremmel tool, made a couple of acrylic washers and went back to boat.
I opened up the hole for the ignition key set, wrapped the threads in heavy duty self sealing electrical tape (like the stuff you use to seal turnbuckles) and then isolated the nuts with the acrylic washers. No more continuity between the key set and the gauge housings or the panel.
Boat starts right up.
Hopefully that was the problem!!!
I'll order a new panel this winter made out of stainless steel, it will look nice and won't rust!
...just kidding...acrylic should be just right!
I'm only posting this for others who might have an issue that doesn't quite work out right.
Chris
Typical issue with Atomic 4, mid 70's boat. I would turn key and wouldn't get anything. Over the past few years, I replaced the coil, points and I had already rewired most of the original wiring in the boat.
I did have 2 of the old style trailer hitch connectors still active. One behind the drawers in the galley and one in the engine bay. All of the wiring from the gauges and ignition were new and lead to a terminal strip. All of the grounding is new too.
Well a month ago the same problem arose, I had replaced the key last year and thought I fixed it. Now the only way to start the boat was to hot wire it, which is not a reasonable solution!
Last week I replaced the battery wire from the key to the starter with brand new 4 gauge wire...straight through no breaks. I reran the purple and white wires (as they are shown in the manual) with new 12 gauge wiring, again no breaks. I triple checked all the grounds and continuity is perfect. The only 2 wires left using the trailer hitch connectors are the temp and oil pressure senders, I'll fix them next spring.
Once I did that, it did start, but as before I kind of had to finesse the key to get it to start.
This Friday it wouldn't start again but I hadn't been sailing in weeks and decided to go out via hot wire.
Today I pulled the gauge panel again and RECHECKED every damn ground and connection. I finally pulled every wire from the ignition adn put them on a spare key set I had. Boat started right up.
Hmmm...so it was the key set? Again? What the heck.
Before I switched out key sets again, I tried one more time to rewire the ignition set that was in place. When I went to put the battery wire on the ignition I touched the side of the brass housing of the key set and I got a spark.
Why would that happen? Why would it short out on the side of the key like that. I took the spare set and used the multi meter to see if this was so. Nope...no continuity there.
Then why on the installed key set? In fact, I was getting continuity on the key set housing AND the brass housings of all the gauges in the panel!!!
What?
Then it dawned on me...when I moved the gauge panel from low in the cockpit to the back I ordered a new panel from Front Panel Express.
....I used aluminum
The key threads were directly touching the panel which also held the fuel/volt/temp/pressure gauges...all grounded properly.
I had inadvertently created a problem where I was cross connecting everything when I started boat.
...I think
Well either way, I went back home, got my Dremmel tool, made a couple of acrylic washers and went back to boat.
I opened up the hole for the ignition key set, wrapped the threads in heavy duty self sealing electrical tape (like the stuff you use to seal turnbuckles) and then isolated the nuts with the acrylic washers. No more continuity between the key set and the gauge housings or the panel.
Boat starts right up.
Hopefully that was the problem!!!
I'll order a new panel this winter made out of stainless steel, it will look nice and won't rust!
...just kidding...acrylic should be just right!
I'm only posting this for others who might have an issue that doesn't quite work out right.
Chris
