Boat wire question

[arghhh]

I have some 3/0 wire with hydraulic pressed lugs that I would like to use.

Here are the markings from the wire.

3/0AWG (85mm2) E125352-U (UL) BC-SW2 or MTW or THHW FOR CT USE OR AWM 1232/1284/1338 600V OR 10269 1000V OIL RES | SUN RES VW - 1 - - 156016 CSA TEW 105C 600V FT1 OR AWM I A/B 105C 600V FTW W75 0 - -SAE J1127 TYPE SGT

Quite a lot of stuff there, no idea what it all means. Is this sufficient for marine use? The lugs are open ended with plastic insulation around them. I could put the heat shrink with the glue to keep corrosion to a minimum. Any thoughts or ideas?

 

[Stu Jackson]

Open ended lugs on a boat are a problem waiting to happen. Ring terminals won't come off even if the screw is a little bit loose. THHW is household/interior wiring insulation.

Is the wire stranded and tinned? If it's solid, it's not for a boat.

 

[arghhh]

Thanks for the quick reply stu.

The are ring terminals. I meant to say that the part the wire goes in is open ended meaning I can see the strands.

 

[KD3PC]

All depends on where and what you plan to use them for...

not for use in wet locations...damp locations will eventually allow water to wick the stranding...stamping indicates oil and sun resistant..

 

[Ross]

Mtw Is machine tool wire, awm is appliance wire material. 3/0awg, is 000 american wire gauge.
http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdon...E56BC/0/Pg005_ULtypes_MTW_TFF_AWM_CSA_TEW.pdf

http://www.jaguarind.com/products/pvc/wire/ul1.html

I googled the terms I didn't know. If I were seeking the answers here I would google the marking on all of the wire.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Issue #1: I suspect you have heavy stranding uncommon in marine installations. The finer stranding like welding cable is my preference (not certain but maybe ABYC's preference too).

Issue #2: Also suspect the wire is untinned copper, this might be mitigated with issue #3.

Issue #3. My strong preference for battery cable lugs (or windlasses or any other heavy load) are closed end solder-on lugs insulated with a double layer of shrink tube. The soldering prevents moisture from wicking its way into the stranding (as mentioned previously). Been using battery cables made this way for 30 years without a single incident.

BTW, THHW wire is general building wire, the 'T' indicates plastic insulation, the 'W' indicates suitability for wet locations, essentially in underground conduit. Don't know what the 2 H's mean.

Hey, that's 2 for 4 or a batting average of .500!

 

[Ross]

http://www.acewireco.com/pdfs/2020.pdf
For thhw wire insulation.

 

[arghhh]

Issue #1: I suspect you have heavy stranding uncommon in marine installations. The finer stranding like welding cable is my preference (not certain but maybe ABYC's preference too).

Issue #2: Also suspect the wire is untinned copper, this might be mitigated with issue #3.

Issue #3. My strong preference for battery cable lugs (or windlasses or any other heavy load) are closed end solder-on lugs insulated with a double layer of shrink tube. The soldering prevents moisture from wicking its way into the stranding (as mentioned previously). Been using battery cables made this way for 30 years without a single incident.

#1 It is the fine strand welding type. Very flexible.

#2 Untinned.

#3 Sadly it is not the closed end lugs most likely leading to more problems than it's worth in the long run. You can see the strands and they are very small.

Thanks for the great replies. Maybe I can find a project on land for this wire but I will keep it off the boat.

If anyone wants some to put some closed ends on let me know. You can have it for free if you want to pay shipping, I ended up with a few of these.

It is beyond my scope and I don't have the equipment to do anything with 3/0. I will just get some nice tinned stuff from the battery to the switch.

 

[KD3PC]

UL's definition of wet location: "Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth, and locations subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such as vehicle washing areas, and locations exposed to weather and unprotected."

However, NEC and NFPA have differing definitions...

YMMV...simply put thhw is not for marine or boat use...

 

[kloudie1]

Almost a differrent subject, but related.. Check out Practical Sailor's article on boat wiring .. http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_7/features/Marine-Wiring-Options_5938-1.html
Good notes on codes and usage..

 

[Stu Jackson]

Yup, you're right, big wire, ancor crimpers certainly would suffice.

Where on a boat would one need 3/0 wire? Windlass?

 

[arghhh]

Yup, you're right, big wire, ancor crimpers certainly would suffice.

Where on a boat would one need 3/0 wire? Windlass?

I wouldn't NEED 3/0 but I had it and bigger is better right? I was planning to use it as main battery cables to the battery switch and distribution bus. The lug holes are just the right size for the Link 20 shunt.

 

[Ross]

Terminal- and Lug-Crimping Tools (D) Hammer Style— Compact and economical. Raise pin to place connector and cable in slot, then hammer the top of the pin to crimp. Crimps connector range of 8 to 4/0 AWG battery terminal clamps and lugs. Has a malleable iron body and a hardened steel pin. Size is 3 3/4" Ht. x 2 1/4" Wd. x 3" Dp. 7061K12 Each $29.78

(E) Lever Style— Adjustable rotating dies give more consistent crimps than the hammer style. Dies are color-coded to match battery cable and connector. Made of heat-treated carbon steel with vinyl grips. Tools with ratchet won't open until fully crimped. Use the 19" long models in tight areas.

D
​

http://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-terminal-crimpers/=88ehxe

 

[Stu Jackson]

I wouldn't NEED 3/0 but I had it and bigger is better right? I was planning to use it as main battery cables to the battery switch and distribution bus. The lug holes are just the right size for the Link 20 shunt.

Sure is overkill. Most boats have #4 AWG from the batteries to the switch. Theory is of course based on voltage drop. For a typical boat, that #4 wire isn't asked to carry much more than 15 to 20 amps at the most: fridge (5), interior lights (5), running lights (5), stereo (2), water pump (5), but they're usually rarely on at the same time.

 

[Maine Sail]

Nothing wrong with welding cable electrically so long as you use heavy duty one piece battery lugs and the proper crimper. Cast lugs are not open on the ends and will heat seal better with adhesive lined heat shrink..

You may be better off just to order your cables pre-made from Genuinedealz.com. They will crimp on fittings for $1.00 each and their wire prices are very good.

Heavy Duty Lug On Right

When using lug crimpers the better ones will be specifically color coded to match the lugs:

The crimp jaw heads are VERY robust:

Once heat sealed, with adhesive lined tube, they will be totally waterproof even with welding cable (edit: welding cable does not meet ABYC safety standards due to the jacketing used)

 

[woodster]

You may be better off just to order your cables pre-made from Genuinedealz.com. They will crimp on fittings for $1.00 each and their wire prices are very good.

ditto on genuinedealz......Mike is the best i have found for wire source and he gives very good service as well .......i am glad you are useing him ....i just wish all the supplies out there were as easy to get and deal with.....

regards

woody

 

[Maine Sail]

ditto on genuinedealz......Mike is the best i have found for wire source and he gives very good service as well .......i am glad you are useing him ....i just wish all the supplies out there were as easy to get and deal with.....

regards

woody

Actually I have never used them but have steered a lot of people their way who have been happy. I make my own crimps and have a local wire distributor whom I buy from at slightly less than GD... I have to assume they are good guys though as I have not had anyone come back to me and tell me otherwise..