Recently I received a copy of the O'Day 28 owners manual - Thank you Trey. One day I may upgrade but for now I am staying with my O'Day 23. You know the story - kids in college .... house ..... etc etc In reading the manual there are a couple of interesting comments/suggestions..... 1) "seal chain plates twice a year 2) "don't rest the boat exclusively on the keel when moving and storing." As it turns out Re - 1) I do not seal my chainplates twice a year - maybe every other year. I inspect them but I do not dig out the old stuff and re-seal as I did this year. 2) During the winter I place my boat on its keel and provide support via jack stands or my trailers bunk boards. The bunk boards do not take any weight - they simply support the boat from rocking side to side etc etc. What are your opinions on these two issues. Does anyone know why O'Day would make such recomendations in their manual? Is this limited to lagre boats where the weight of the rest of the boat could effect something? Do I need to change my storage or maintainence? Looking for your insights. Thanks James O'Day 23 "Bognor Limey"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Chainplates
I've never seen a real manual for my O'Day 25. I saw a small brochure, but it had nothing about sealing chainplates. I DID however, read Don Casey's "This Old Boat" book. In it, he recommended (pretty strongly) removing the chainplates and inspecting/resealing every year on boats older than 20 years. I scoffed and said that a "visual" inspection would be enough. I didn't realize that if the water gets in high enough, you might not ever see the damage. In the case of my O'Day 25, water HAD intruded into the bulkheads, rotting out the plywood. My "visual inspection" never caught it, because the teak veneer was undamaged, and looked fine. I don't know about the 28, but on the 25 and your 23, the upper and lower shroud on either side share the same chainplate. If it pulls free from the bulkhead, you WILL be dismasted. Many other brand boats have seperate chainplates, and often two lowers (each with their own chainplate) per side. That makes for more "redundant" systems preventing dismasting. Rebed them every year. Trust me, it sure beats repairing ruined bulkheads after a dismasting.
I've never seen a real manual for my O'Day 25. I saw a small brochure, but it had nothing about sealing chainplates. I DID however, read Don Casey's "This Old Boat" book. In it, he recommended (pretty strongly) removing the chainplates and inspecting/resealing every year on boats older than 20 years. I scoffed and said that a "visual" inspection would be enough. I didn't realize that if the water gets in high enough, you might not ever see the damage. In the case of my O'Day 25, water HAD intruded into the bulkheads, rotting out the plywood. My "visual inspection" never caught it, because the teak veneer was undamaged, and looked fine. I don't know about the 28, but on the 25 and your 23, the upper and lower shroud on either side share the same chainplate. If it pulls free from the bulkhead, you WILL be dismasted. Many other brand boats have seperate chainplates, and often two lowers (each with their own chainplate) per side. That makes for more "redundant" systems preventing dismasting. Rebed them every year. Trust me, it sure beats repairing ruined bulkheads after a dismasting.
rebedding chain plates
i think rebedding chainplates twice a yr is a lot ridiculous.think about it a moment. you are breaking what maybe a perfectly good seal and assuming that the new one you are putting in has the same intergrity as the old one. i have'nt rebedded mine for several years. however any time we're on the boat and it rains or pours, i check them to make sure that not one drop is comming through. i am not not very familiar with the smaller o'day's, i have a 1979 30'. i think most are similar setups though. now for resting it on the keel. i think that almost all boats that have a weighted keel should have most of the hull weight taken off the keel while in storage. this needs to be done in a particular way though. stands, poppets or whatever ther're called in your local should be placed under the boat at the bulkheads only!!!!!!!! if the yard places them any old place as they typically do, it can do damage to the hull or to the area where the keel joins the hull. i have seen boats that have had the jell coat severally cracked because the yard put the stands in a soft area. my yard is no different. i always have to move them because they seem to always place them in unsupported sections of the hull. on the smaller boats i don.t think it woud be as much of a problem. i could be wrong though. i would think its more a function of hull weight vs.ballast weight. on mine, i sure don't want 6400# of hull loading the small area adjacent to the keel.i see this as asking for trouble. hope this helps answer your questions. s/v Que Pasa?
i think rebedding chainplates twice a yr is a lot ridiculous.think about it a moment. you are breaking what maybe a perfectly good seal and assuming that the new one you are putting in has the same intergrity as the old one. i have'nt rebedded mine for several years. however any time we're on the boat and it rains or pours, i check them to make sure that not one drop is comming through. i am not not very familiar with the smaller o'day's, i have a 1979 30'. i think most are similar setups though. now for resting it on the keel. i think that almost all boats that have a weighted keel should have most of the hull weight taken off the keel while in storage. this needs to be done in a particular way though. stands, poppets or whatever ther're called in your local should be placed under the boat at the bulkheads only!!!!!!!! if the yard places them any old place as they typically do, it can do damage to the hull or to the area where the keel joins the hull. i have seen boats that have had the jell coat severally cracked because the yard put the stands in a soft area. my yard is no different. i always have to move them because they seem to always place them in unsupported sections of the hull. on the smaller boats i don.t think it woud be as much of a problem. i could be wrong though. i would think its more a function of hull weight vs.ballast weight. on mine, i sure don't want 6400# of hull loading the small area adjacent to the keel.i see this as asking for trouble. hope this helps answer your questions. s/v Que Pasa?
Each to their Own
Obviously, each person has to make their own decision. My chainplates NEVER appeared to leak. Not a drop. The bulkheads looked fantastic. As I said though, water was getting in, and soaking the plywood internally. The bulkheads LOOKED great because the teak veneer was holding up well, while the inside turned into something that had the holding strength of balsawood. The chainplate popping out through the deck was my first clear indicator that something was wrong. There was one sign that something was amiss that, had I known better, I should have caught. For a period of 3-4 weeks before the chainplate pulled loose, the shrouds needed almost constant readjustment. I'd go out sailing, and when I got back, both sides were loose. I'd tighten them, and next time I went out, they were loose again. In retrospect, this was obviously because the chainplates were pulling up some each time I took them out. No matter, I personally plan on removing mine in January each year, and rebedding them afterwards. I found the hard way (which are often the best lessons) that my few months of experience pale in comparison to folks like Don Casey.
Obviously, each person has to make their own decision. My chainplates NEVER appeared to leak. Not a drop. The bulkheads looked fantastic. As I said though, water was getting in, and soaking the plywood internally. The bulkheads LOOKED great because the teak veneer was holding up well, while the inside turned into something that had the holding strength of balsawood. The chainplate popping out through the deck was my first clear indicator that something was wrong. There was one sign that something was amiss that, had I known better, I should have caught. For a period of 3-4 weeks before the chainplate pulled loose, the shrouds needed almost constant readjustment. I'd go out sailing, and when I got back, both sides were loose. I'd tighten them, and next time I went out, they were loose again. In retrospect, this was obviously because the chainplates were pulling up some each time I took them out. No matter, I personally plan on removing mine in January each year, and rebedding them afterwards. I found the hard way (which are often the best lessons) that my few months of experience pale in comparison to folks like Don Casey.
J
James
Thanks for your input
Herb and Capn Jim ... Appreacite your insights and suggestions. I have just done the chainplates so will wait until next spring for a detialed inspection. Cheers James
Herb and Capn Jim ... Appreacite your insights and suggestions. I have just done the chainplates so will wait until next spring for a detialed inspection. Cheers James
Rebedded 23' this year
I rebedded both chinplates this year when I removed the port bulkhead to install a halyard organizer beneath the mast. There was no obvious leakage, but the factory made thru-deck openings for the chinplates were about three times as wide as necessary and roughly make. I unbolted the chinepalte from the bulkhead, epoxied the bulkhead bolt holes, polished the metal, re-bolted the chinplates in place, filled the rough thru-deck openings with thicked epoxy (but allowing for movement of the chinplate), sealed the opening with 4200, and replaced the cover plates. PS: the previous owner just squirted a little silicone sealer around and called it done. CVP
I rebedded both chinplates this year when I removed the port bulkhead to install a halyard organizer beneath the mast. There was no obvious leakage, but the factory made thru-deck openings for the chinplates were about three times as wide as necessary and roughly make. I unbolted the chinepalte from the bulkhead, epoxied the bulkhead bolt holes, polished the metal, re-bolted the chinplates in place, filled the rough thru-deck openings with thicked epoxy (but allowing for movement of the chinplate), sealed the opening with 4200, and replaced the cover plates. PS: the previous owner just squirted a little silicone sealer around and called it done. CVP
- Status
- Not open for further replies.