Pulled our 240 out of the water for the season and had a problem we have had several times in the past. We position the boat properly, attach the tether from the trailer to the bow and crank her up. All OK so far but the problem occurs when we cant get the bow of the boat snug against the rubber fitting on the trailer. Currently the boat sits back about 12 inches from the front of the trailer which is not a problem for sitting in the marina but WILL be a problem when we take the boat on the highway. We tried to crank it up tight while on shore but couldnt get her to budge. (By the way, the water ballast did fully empty after we pulled the boat out of the water so we did release all of that ballast weight) Input appreciated Thanks Bill Welsch S/V Renewal
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Ralph C. Regar
Boat Placement
I have had the same difficulty with our 260. Most boat ramps are made for power boats and are not steep enough to give sufficient depth to easily float/pull the boat completely onto the trailer. Even with trailer tongue extensions it can be a problem. You can find a steeper ramp, if practical, but I have another suggestion. Pull the boat as far onto the trailer as you can and pull the trailer/boat part way up the ramp, enough so that the ballast tank can drain. Close the drain on the ballast tank and back the trailer back down the ramp. The empty tank should give the boat enough boyancy that it can then be cranked fully onto the trailer. The disadvantage of this is that it ties up the launch ramp for a longer period of time. Best of luck. Ralph C. Regar S/V Shambala
I have had the same difficulty with our 260. Most boat ramps are made for power boats and are not steep enough to give sufficient depth to easily float/pull the boat completely onto the trailer. Even with trailer tongue extensions it can be a problem. You can find a steeper ramp, if practical, but I have another suggestion. Pull the boat as far onto the trailer as you can and pull the trailer/boat part way up the ramp, enough so that the ballast tank can drain. Close the drain on the ballast tank and back the trailer back down the ramp. The empty tank should give the boat enough boyancy that it can then be cranked fully onto the trailer. The disadvantage of this is that it ties up the launch ramp for a longer period of time. Best of luck. Ralph C. Regar S/V Shambala
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Rick Webb
Check the Archives
There were alot of tricks discussed a while back on this one. What I do is squirt liquid dish soap on the bunks so that the boat slides up them better. The other solution is to get the boat pointed down hill and stomp on the brakes, tighten the strap and then give it another stomp. This works as well but some folks were a little timid about trying it. I figure if it can't handle a stomp on the brakes at 5 MPH it should not be on the road at all.
There were alot of tricks discussed a while back on this one. What I do is squirt liquid dish soap on the bunks so that the boat slides up them better. The other solution is to get the boat pointed down hill and stomp on the brakes, tighten the strap and then give it another stomp. This works as well but some folks were a little timid about trying it. I figure if it can't handle a stomp on the brakes at 5 MPH it should not be on the road at all.
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ken.shubert
Big Push!
Two healthy guys can push it forward if you're on level ground or downhill. This sounds a little less risky than slamming on the brakes. Good thick carpet on the bunkers will help too. Polypropylene carpet is very slick. I always do the second floating on with empty ballast if at all possible. Actually, the trailer flexes so no matter how good the winch is it'll just bend the trailer frame. The marina boys wind up the outboard and hit the trailer at about 4kts.... but they don't own the boat. I doubt that two guys can move a H260.... maybe 3 guys. My boat was delivered from some distance with no bow or stern holdown straps. The only pupose they serve is decoration and fulfill state law requirements. The boat won't fall off the trailer. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
Two healthy guys can push it forward if you're on level ground or downhill. This sounds a little less risky than slamming on the brakes. Good thick carpet on the bunkers will help too. Polypropylene carpet is very slick. I always do the second floating on with empty ballast if at all possible. Actually, the trailer flexes so no matter how good the winch is it'll just bend the trailer frame. The marina boys wind up the outboard and hit the trailer at about 4kts.... but they don't own the boat. I doubt that two guys can move a H260.... maybe 3 guys. My boat was delivered from some distance with no bow or stern holdown straps. The only pupose they serve is decoration and fulfill state law requirements. The boat won't fall off the trailer. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
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Mike Epp
bow roller
I have a 23 and have had the same problem. I found that the dish soap was a great help, but also have had to pull out of the water to get the transom down to get the bow up and over the front roller on the trailer. Getting into a deep ramp is imperative. I think next year I'll lower that bow roller and back down far enough (tongue extension helps) to crank the boat totally up to the winch the first time. My bottom paint is rough textured so she don't slide very well on the bunks.
I have a 23 and have had the same problem. I found that the dish soap was a great help, but also have had to pull out of the water to get the transom down to get the bow up and over the front roller on the trailer. Getting into a deep ramp is imperative. I think next year I'll lower that bow roller and back down far enough (tongue extension helps) to crank the boat totally up to the winch the first time. My bottom paint is rough textured so she don't slide very well on the bunks.
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Tom Hultberg
I agree with Ralph
I have a H26 and have found the pull and drain then re-float to work well. I can always get the bow snug to the trailer rest. Good luck!
I have a H26 and have found the pull and drain then re-float to work well. I can always get the bow snug to the trailer rest. Good luck!
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Mark Kissel
A couple of things to check.
Hi Bill! Check to make sure the centerboard is fully up. While its out of the water, look to see if the front edge of the centerboard is digging into the carpet or wedging its way between the boards. If all is well, apply soap on both the hull and centerboard bunks then put some elbow grease on the winch handle. It helps if you can park on a slight incline to let gravity help out. That should get her up snug. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
Hi Bill! Check to make sure the centerboard is fully up. While its out of the water, look to see if the front edge of the centerboard is digging into the carpet or wedging its way between the boards. If all is well, apply soap on both the hull and centerboard bunks then put some elbow grease on the winch handle. It helps if you can park on a slight incline to let gravity help out. That should get her up snug. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
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Per Albinsson
Angle of wire
On our first retrieving we had the same problem but then I changed the direction of the wire on the winch and led it out under the rubber fitting. Now the wire pulls the boat forvard instead of lifting the bow and bending the trailer. Per Albinsson/AMFI
On our first retrieving we had the same problem but then I changed the direction of the wire on the winch and led it out under the rubber fitting. Now the wire pulls the boat forvard instead of lifting the bow and bending the trailer. Per Albinsson/AMFI
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Dave Condon
general
Bill; Generally speaking, the trailer is at an angle when pulling the boat onto the trailer. Some folks may diagree with me but let me tell you what I do. I will winch the boat all the way up. I then loosen the winch strap some to allow the bow of the boat to come up when you pull it out due to the initial angle and then both being horizontal. I then pull up several feet and allow the water to drain. Once on level surface, then I will winch up the boat to the pad. You could put the vehicle in gear and travel for example 20 feet and then brake causing the boat to shit forward on the trailer. I then tighten up the winch strap or cable. That is what I do to all my hunters to include the very first 23.5 and also for the 240 , 260 and so forth. I also follow this procedure when pulling out the Hunter 280, 290, 310, 320 and 340 with boat trailers. Crazy Dave
Bill; Generally speaking, the trailer is at an angle when pulling the boat onto the trailer. Some folks may diagree with me but let me tell you what I do. I will winch the boat all the way up. I then loosen the winch strap some to allow the bow of the boat to come up when you pull it out due to the initial angle and then both being horizontal. I then pull up several feet and allow the water to drain. Once on level surface, then I will winch up the boat to the pad. You could put the vehicle in gear and travel for example 20 feet and then brake causing the boat to shit forward on the trailer. I then tighten up the winch strap or cable. That is what I do to all my hunters to include the very first 23.5 and also for the 240 , 260 and so forth. I also follow this procedure when pulling out the Hunter 280, 290, 310, 320 and 340 with boat trailers. Crazy Dave
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John Larsen
H25 same problem
Use as much water boyancy to winch before moving out of the water. The angle of the winch cable will also help if you can get lift instead of pulling down. I use an old dock line going through the forward drain hole in the anchor lazarette (this may not be correct sailor jargon here) and route over the top of the winch. If I need additional help once on land, I've used a floor jack under the forward part of my keel to provide a bit of lift from the trailer and then winch the last inch or two.
Use as much water boyancy to winch before moving out of the water. The angle of the winch cable will also help if you can get lift instead of pulling down. I use an old dock line going through the forward drain hole in the anchor lazarette (this may not be correct sailor jargon here) and route over the top of the winch. If I need additional help once on land, I've used a floor jack under the forward part of my keel to provide a bit of lift from the trailer and then winch the last inch or two.
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