Boat Lift

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Tim Peoples

I am having a boat lift made for my 260. I have spoken to Hunter Marine and they have no specifications for the design and for liability reasons will not supply them. I have a boat lift company working on a design for the support structure under the boat to safely lift the boat out of the water. I was wondering if anyone on this site kept their boat in a lift and if they could offer any advice or photos of how they accomplished this. Thanks, Tim
 
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Rick Webb

Seams to Me

If it were modeled after the trailer setup it would be just fine. I think also that you would want the centerboard supported and then you could take the tension off of the line holding it up. Let us know what they come up with.
 
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Corky Trotter

lift marks

I assume you know where the lift marks are for straps. Mine are marked on my boat. ct
 
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Jeff Peltier

Boat lifts are quite common up here.

Most people put them on boat lifts up here. Full length bunks are the prefered method. My bunks are 5/4 x 6" cedar decking mounted on 4" x 4.5# chanel. Shorestation, a popular lift up here, uses a galvanized V-bar under a treated 2x6 for their support. Most people are using 5000# or 6000# lifts and dump the ballast every time up. Hope that helps, Jeff Peltier
 
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crazy dave

pretty simple

Use the bunk boards design on the trailer for the lift. Works every time but you will have to drain the water cause if you do not, big mess.
 
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Jeff Peltier

Don't consider the hunter bunks, unless

you have a lift that is capable of supporting part of the load in the center, as these bunks aren't stong enough and the Hunter hull not stiff enough to support the load just for and aft.
 
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crazy dave

Excuse me Jeff

If you follow the bunk board pattern with the bunk boards on the lift, that will be good. The weight of the boat rests on those boards. If in any other position for a length of time, I believe you will experience some damage particulay if the boat is in a sling situation for a good length of time. Jeff; I have seen more than most folks over the years and what I am saying is based on experience. I have said my peace and you or any one else can do what they want. If there is any damage to the boat as a result of any other style lifting, then Hunter will not talk with you either. Again, please do what ever you think but I know the boats and Hunter too well. Hunter will always take care of their boats but when things are done diffeently, it is the owner's responsibility. Enuf said
 
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Jeff Peltier

Response to Dave

You're a good contributor to is forum, but you seem to be confused in assuming all boat lifts are structured for intermediate support. I, also have a lot of experience with boats and lifts and the one weakness of the Hunter 260s (the Hull stiffness on the bottom of the boat). I have encouraged Hunter to stiffen this area in the past and have not given up, as it is an otherwise very fine boat.
 
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Tim Peoples

Jeff and Dave

I appreciate all the input on my question regarding lift design. Jeff, your advice is sound regarding support. The initial design that my lift installer supplied only supported the front and back of the boat. The fiberglass in the back was not strong enough to support the load and I did crack the hull. Dave, to clarify, the people at Hunter did speak to me. They are simply unwilling to supply specifications for a lift. Your advice is the same as theirs which is to model it after the bunks on the trailer. This is the direction that I am now heading but I was hoping that someone would have a photo or something that could help us determine how to structure it. Those bunks are not as simple as they look. Further advice or input is appreciated. I much prefer to learn from the experience of others rather than the school of hard knocks. Thanks for the help. Tim
 
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Jeff Peltier

Here is a picture

The key is to spread the load out (picture enclosed). Having the channel Iron flat under the wood, allows enough flex to conform to the Hull, but spreads the load out significately, compared to just a 2x8. My bunks are 4" channel x 13' long with the boards on top 14' and supported at 10'. Shorestation uses a V-channel for the same reason. Their lift has a 11' span. (see link below). Hopefully, that gives you some insite to work off of.
 
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Tim Peoples

Jeff - Flat or curved ?

Jeff Thanks for the picture. Would you clarify one item please. Are your boards flat or are they curved to match the profile of the bottom of the hull ? Thanks, Tim
 
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Jeff Peltier

They are Flat,

but, they curve to the shape of the hull, when under load. I use a minimum of wood (Cedar decking), because with aluminum lifts, if there is too much floatation, the frame will float and cables can come off pulleys, etc. Others have tried doubling 2x8s for support, but again, it adds way too much floatation. Wood also isn't as consistant in load bearing, because of knots etc, potentially creating other problems.
 
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crazy dave

lifts

If I am correct folks, I see two vertical supports to the bunk boards. Although there are boards, in time, the areas where the boards are attached could indent the hull. You really need three or four supports on each side to distribute the load. Jeff, granted you know what you are doing, Like I said, I have expereinced so much to include repariing hulls with only two supports for the bunks over the years. My advice is to follow the trailer pattern. That is simple which anyone needs to measure on the trailer and advise the lift builder/installer. The supports should be adjustable to fine tune the boat sitting on the bunks. We will let the folks decide what to do in the future. End of this thread for me.
 
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Rick Webb

One More Question for Crazy Dave, Just One

Should the centerboard be suported on the lift to take the tension off of the line sheeve and stuff like it is on the trailer?
 
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Jeff Peltier

Centerboard support

Originally, I had a concern with that, but after 6 years, I've come to the conclusion sun exposer is alot harder on the line than the load. Trailers are a different matter, as they can develope dynamic loads, like when bouncing down a rough road, that can easily double the load on that line.
 
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Bob Fliegel

Sling Instead of Bunk

I leave my boat on the trailer for winter storage. This past winter I noticed that the forward hull was being bent/deflected in by the trailer bunk. My impression is that the hull in also not thick enough to properly support the weight of the boat while on the trailer. In addition to adding extra wooden bunks on the trailer, I was wondering if anyone ever considered leaving the boat in a sling rather that a stiff wooden structure? Regards, Bob
 
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crazy dave

Bob

Sling is not good. As for the indentation, please lower the support some to distrubute the weight on the trailer bunk boards.l
 
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Dick

Sling

Dave has already made his opinion clear, but I was wondering about the sling idea, also. I was working on my 26 last night and seing the "Lift Here" or something like that just under the rub rail. Whey would hunter put that on the hull if that wasn't the best place to support it? Could you picture an overwidth (12") canvas belt with chain sewn into the back for weight and to keep the belt submerged.
 
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Jeff Peltier

Sling comments

Slings, by design will consistantly spread the load out evenly. I can see them working fine in a quite harber or canal. I can see problems in open areas, subject to wind and waves that would move the boat and slings around, while trying to raise. As Bob found out, if you're off a little when loading on the trailer, the bunks will cause the hull to flex in on one side or the other. The problem is amplified on a boat lift, as there is not a winch stand to ensure fore-aft alignment.
 
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Rick Webb

Why Not?

Why can't the frame on the boat lift look exactly like the trailer, winch stand and all?
 
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