Boat launching
- Thread starter jimmac99
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They don't need to be removed. The recommended procedure is to unplug the trailer electrical connector from the towing vehicle before launching. The problem arises from submerging hot bulbs in cold water. When I was trailering I converted my trailers to sealed LED units and never worried about it again. Good Luck.
I don't know what the original lights on the Mac trailer that you have are, but when I got my 26X with original trailer, I put these submersible LED 'over 80' lights on mine, and I just dunk them. I don't bother unplugging the trailer, either, as I need the reverse lockout for the surge brakes, and my front clearance lights, amber side marker lights, and ID lights are all sealed LED.
These have rear clearance lights, and side markers, as well as the usual tail/brake/turn function, and license plate light on the left-hand unit. Cheap, and work surprisingly well. On sale at the moment, too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-pair-submersible-trailer-led-lights-94137.html
These have rear clearance lights, and side markers, as well as the usual tail/brake/turn function, and license plate light on the left-hand unit. Cheap, and work surprisingly well. On sale at the moment, too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-pair-submersible-trailer-led-lights-94137.html
We have also gone to the LED's. Just curious about your surge brakes....can you also pin them? We have the reverse lockout, but I've also pinned them when pushing the trailer around with the hitch...
...on the front of the Suburban,
Sum
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I can, but I need to dig up a pin to do it, and it's easier to just use the solenoid for me. I'm not sure this couple is actually made to take a pin, but a receiver hitch pin just fits under those hook-shaped straps and works fine, at least the once or twice I did it before I had the reverse solenoid wired.
You guys must be buying your LED lights in a different place than me. The ones on my Mac trailer only work when they are wet, and the ones on my 505 trailer only a couple of the LEDs work at all. Both sets are under a year old. I'm about ready to go back to old school incandescents
Make sure the ground is good and all your connections are waterproof. I run a separate ground to all lights. I have used the heat shrink and wire nuts filled with silicone once the connection is made. The connection at the tow vehicle is also a major source of problems. I also run a ground directly from the battery to the connector. Using the trailer or vehicle body for the ground can lead to major problems. Its a little extra work but really pays off.
LED lights still have one major flaw. Idiots still back into them and break them! I replace at lest one set of trailer lights each season.
This year I plan on fabricating a "light bar" that attaches to the aft railing. It will contain stop/turn, centre brake lights and license plate.
Since it will stay in the tow vehicle, no chance of damage or license plate theft while we are out sailing. Removed before backing down the ramp and there will be no water issues.
I saw a design that was a length of 2 inch PVC that attached/detached with two thumb screws.
Chris
This year I plan on fabricating a "light bar" that attaches to the aft railing. It will contain stop/turn, centre brake lights and license plate.
Since it will stay in the tow vehicle, no chance of damage or license plate theft while we are out sailing. Removed before backing down the ramp and there will be no water issues.
I saw a design that was a length of 2 inch PVC that attached/detached with two thumb screws.
Chris
I have the same plan, as renovation of the trailer is near. Plan to remove the lights and put them on a bar.
Two questions/thoughts:
(1) a plan has to be in place to be able to mount the light bar on the trailer if you have to drive the trailer on the road without the boat on it.
(2) might check local or state refs regarding permanent fixture of the license plate onto the trailer. This would be to prevent you from putting that light bar, with trailer license plate, on any other, or many other, trailers, rather than having one license plate per trailer. There are even some local ordinances that require the license plate to be visible on a parked trailer, i.e. one you leave in the parking lot of a boat ramp. It would be a sad thing to come back from a great day of sailing and find that you got a ticket, or worse, because your trailer didn't have a license plate on it in the parking lot.
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Not definite about number two, but worth looking into.
Two questions/thoughts:
(1) a plan has to be in place to be able to mount the light bar on the trailer if you have to drive the trailer on the road without the boat on it.
(2) might check local or state refs regarding permanent fixture of the license plate onto the trailer. This would be to prevent you from putting that light bar, with trailer license plate, on any other, or many other, trailers, rather than having one license plate per trailer. There are even some local ordinances that require the license plate to be visible on a parked trailer, i.e. one you leave in the parking lot of a boat ramp. It would be a sad thing to come back from a great day of sailing and find that you got a ticket, or worse, because your trailer didn't have a license plate on it in the parking lot.
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Not definite about number two, but worth looking into.
Interesting about the license plate - never thought of that.
I did lose a plate once and it was a PITA as you had to report it lost/stolen (in person at the police station), wait a week then get a new plate (with an extra "service fee" in addition to the plate fee).
Chris
I don’t know the exact details but I believe Ron Roots added a removable beam with additional trailer lights that he would somehow mount at the back of the boat. If you use LED lights, they are so low power that it would be easy to just have a set of LED lights on the stock trailer position and add a second four pin plug for the removable tail lights. Just wire the two sets of LED lights in parallel.
There are of course some legal aspects/issues with the way the stock Mac trailers are to begin with... but Ive never heard of anyone having any sort of issue with this (or maybe Ive just never heard..)
A guy I know was towing a small sailboat trailer about two weeks ago and I believe he was stopped at a trafffic light. He did not have the boat on the trailer and a truck pulled up from behind and "just did not see the trailer" and did some major damage to the trailer. The trailer was probably significantly smaller than the Mac trailer but something to think about.
There are of course some legal aspects/issues with the way the stock Mac trailers are to begin with... but Ive never heard of anyone having any sort of issue with this (or maybe Ive just never heard..)
A guy I know was towing a small sailboat trailer about two weeks ago and I believe he was stopped at a trafffic light. He did not have the boat on the trailer and a truck pulled up from behind and "just did not see the trailer" and did some major damage to the trailer. The trailer was probably significantly smaller than the Mac trailer but something to think about.
May not be what you're asking about, but this is what I do for highway or night trailering. LED's on the trailer stay on the trailer, and passes inspection every year that way. LED's (non-submersible) on the engine are just wedged on with bunk carpet inside the legs, and a bungie to hold it there just in case. Takes seconds to unplug and stow in the tow beast. If I drill a hole in it, I could cable it to the OB to slow someone down who's trying to steal it, but I don't leave it unattended like that anyway, so I haven't bothered (yet).
The mast ends just about even with the lights, so no extra marking light is required on that. Stop/turn/tail lights are right in everyone's face, too, so less chance of getting run into in stop and go traffic. Getting too close, even in a car, buries the trailer lights out of sight, but these are pretty hard to miss.
The mast ends just about even with the lights, so no extra marking light is required on that. Stop/turn/tail lights are right in everyone's face, too, so less chance of getting run into in stop and go traffic. Getting too close, even in a car, buries the trailer lights out of sight, but these are pretty hard to miss.
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I have also added a footlong strip of red tail/stop lights. Mine tapes to the swim ladder at eye level with a cable and plug to one of the trailer lights.
The stock tailer (when the boat is on it) does violate "overhang" rules in most States and Provinces but the addition of a warning flag or light at the back of the boat makes it legal.
My issue is that my trailer lights get backed into and broken at least once every season.
Chris
The stock tailer (when the boat is on it) does violate "overhang" rules in most States and Provinces but the addition of a warning flag or light at the back of the boat makes it legal.
My issue is that my trailer lights get backed into and broken at least once every season.
Chris
I just made a light bar that mounts to the rudder pin.
I think the stock lights are so far under the boats that the boat needs a red flag to be legal.
I run the wires over the top of the boat and remove all befor the boat is launched.
I can also use the light bar on others trailers with non working lights and some bungees.
I think the stock lights are so far under the boats that the boat needs a red flag to be legal.
I run the wires over the top of the boat and remove all befor the boat is launched.
I can also use the light bar on others trailers with non working lights and some bungees.
I moved my lights out to the fenders but that moved the forward too. I didn't put much thought to having a red flag. I guess I should.
I half considered putting some recessed tail lights in the boat itself but wondered, even if unpowered if it would cause a legal issue when on the water. Plus I don't really want to cut the boat.
I like the idea of at least a brake light being pin ed to the rudder bracket tho.
I half considered putting some recessed tail lights in the boat itself but wondered, even if unpowered if it would cause a legal issue when on the water. Plus I don't really want to cut the boat.
I like the idea of at least a brake light being pin ed to the rudder bracket tho.
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