Just got my Doyle APC for my H-380 and I am trying to figure out where to put the turning blocks aft. I watched the video by North (The Downwind Diesel) and they attach them to the toe rail and then lead them foward to a winch. The 380 doesn't have a toe rail so that isn't going to work. I called a dealer and they told me I could mount a set of padeyes just aft of the side entrances of the boat. (there is a flat area made for that) I could then attach the blocks to the padeyes and run sheet to the winch... But... looking in the archives it seems several folks have attached the blocks to other fixtures at the stern which would save me from drilling into the deck...A Any ideas what will support that kind of load? FYI.. I don't have a spinnaker winch so I will be using the jib winch. Thanks Brian C. S/V CREW REST
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Stern Rail
Not sure if the 380 can be rigged this way, but on the 29.5 there are welded stainless loops on the stern rail. Blocks are shackled to that to turn the sheets forward to the winch.
Not sure if the 380 can be rigged this way, but on the 29.5 there are welded stainless loops on the stern rail. Blocks are shackled to that to turn the sheets forward to the winch.
Andy's right
Though my 380 isn't as lucky as your at getting new presents this year
the 376 next to me has a spinnaker and he uses those welded 1/2 loops on the stern rail outboard of the cocktail seats. It's worked for him without a problem since 1997. Wish Santa would bring me an APC too Enjoy Bob Knott H380
Though my 380 isn't as lucky as your at getting new presents this year
the 376 next to me has a spinnaker and he uses those welded 1/2 loops on the stern rail outboard of the cocktail seats. It's worked for him without a problem since 1997. Wish Santa would bring me an APC too Enjoy Bob Knott H380Santa is my friend! another question though
Yeah. I am pretty excited about flying the APC.. I will put in a good to Santa for you (wink wink) On to the question... do the loops in the stern rail look the same as the loops that the life lines attach to on the arch? (I am not at the boat so I can't look till later) If this is the case, could the blocks be attached to the arch loops or do they have enough load bearing capability? Or do the sheets stay far enough out that it really doesn't matter if you go further aft? Anybody have a guess as to how much load on average a APC exerts? Thanks guys! Brian C. S/V CREW REST
Yeah. I am pretty excited about flying the APC.. I will put in a good to Santa for you (wink wink) On to the question... do the loops in the stern rail look the same as the loops that the life lines attach to on the arch? (I am not at the boat so I can't look till later) If this is the case, could the blocks be attached to the arch loops or do they have enough load bearing capability? Or do the sheets stay far enough out that it really doesn't matter if you go further aft? Anybody have a guess as to how much load on average a APC exerts? Thanks guys! Brian C. S/V CREW REST
Arch Loops...
I don't know what year your 380 is, but on the 320's there is a loop on the arch for the spinnaker blocks. I would guess that it is on your arch also. The arch is held in by a backing plate, so it can take the strain (after all, your main sheet is on the arch as well.) The aft rail bolts are not that strong, nor is there a backing plate behind them. I am told that there is a plate in the fiberglass, but I don't know the size or strength. I would strongly recommend that you use the arch for mounting your spinnaker sheet blocks, and just use the stern rail for sitting on. Oh, the APS is great. I have sailed mine with just my wife and I on board. I run my blocks on the arch and the sheets forward to the jib wenches. I have never had to use the wench, it just makes it easier to hold the sheet from the front rather than the side. I hope you got the sock with it. Steve
I don't know what year your 380 is, but on the 320's there is a loop on the arch for the spinnaker blocks. I would guess that it is on your arch also. The arch is held in by a backing plate, so it can take the strain (after all, your main sheet is on the arch as well.) The aft rail bolts are not that strong, nor is there a backing plate behind them. I am told that there is a plate in the fiberglass, but I don't know the size or strength. I would strongly recommend that you use the arch for mounting your spinnaker sheet blocks, and just use the stern rail for sitting on. Oh, the APS is great. I have sailed mine with just my wife and I on board. I run my blocks on the arch and the sheets forward to the jib wenches. I have never had to use the wench, it just makes it easier to hold the sheet from the front rather than the side. I hope you got the sock with it. Steve
Loops
Hunter says that the loops on the stern rail, the ones that the life lines attach to, are strong enough to hold the turning blocks.
Hunter says that the loops on the stern rail, the ones that the life lines attach to, are strong enough to hold the turning blocks.
Thanks all
Well. I went ahead and called Hunter tech support and they said they could be attached to the loops on the arch, or the stern rail with no problem (as Steve says)... Thanks for all the input! Brian S/V CREW REST
Well. I went ahead and called Hunter tech support and they said they could be attached to the loops on the arch, or the stern rail with no problem (as Steve says)... Thanks for all the input! Brian S/V CREW REST
Do it the Right Way!
Brian When I took delivery of my 2001 Hunter 380, I had the rigging installed for the cruising chute. I had the local Hunter dealer install a second set of Lewmar 40 Winches forward of the arch (there is a place for this) and two padeyes (also on a flat spot forward of the arch) and had a spinnaker halyard installed. I purchased some blocks from west Marine to run the spinnaker sheets through and also one at the tack up on the bow, with a line led aft. She will rage downwind on about a 130 to 150 broad reach. I recommend reducing the main enough to get the chute to really fill up, particularly in light winds. You'll love it. I wouldn't cut any corners on the rigging however, as you will soon find that your chute (just under 1000 square feet ... better than doulble the size of the rest of your sails combined) holds a whole bunch of wind pressure. Don't trust your autopilot on windy days or she'll eventually catch the wrong gust/wave, and head up on you. Trust me, your wife will let you know she didn't like it. You'll absolutely love the sail. D-Day Fox III a Hunter 380!
Brian When I took delivery of my 2001 Hunter 380, I had the rigging installed for the cruising chute. I had the local Hunter dealer install a second set of Lewmar 40 Winches forward of the arch (there is a place for this) and two padeyes (also on a flat spot forward of the arch) and had a spinnaker halyard installed. I purchased some blocks from west Marine to run the spinnaker sheets through and also one at the tack up on the bow, with a line led aft. She will rage downwind on about a 130 to 150 broad reach. I recommend reducing the main enough to get the chute to really fill up, particularly in light winds. You'll love it. I wouldn't cut any corners on the rigging however, as you will soon find that your chute (just under 1000 square feet ... better than doulble the size of the rest of your sails combined) holds a whole bunch of wind pressure. Don't trust your autopilot on windy days or she'll eventually catch the wrong gust/wave, and head up on you. Trust me, your wife will let you know she didn't like it. You'll absolutely love the sail. D-Day Fox III a Hunter 380!
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