I purchased a 1987 Newport 30 last fall knowing that it had blisters. I ordered a laminate profile and quoting from the profile, "the laminate on the bottom appears to be in good condition" The profile measured between 11 and 13. Barcol measured between 45 and 50. The only repair offered (hydraulic planing) because it is the only one that they will warranty cost $9,000. I declined. Has anyone achieved a lasting repair, 3 years or more with a less expensive fix. Any preventative measures recommended.
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Blister repair
I agree with RichH. If the blisters are not weeping or soft, leave them alone! Small hard blisters have virtually no effect on either the soundness of the hull or, for that matter on the actual performance of the boat. Gelcoat stripping, etc, can far exceed the value of the boat. It's not going to sink.
I agree with RichH. If the blisters are not weeping or soft, leave them alone! Small hard blisters have virtually no effect on either the soundness of the hull or, for that matter on the actual performance of the boat. Gelcoat stripping, etc, can far exceed the value of the boat. It's not going to sink.
bottom job last year
I had a bottom job done last year from a yard that had a solid reputation, I was so disappointed after the haulout to see as many as 100 small blisters on the hull of my 1986 Catalina, a few blisters were as big as a dime but most were smaller. Anyway, the yard manager took a look and said "thats nothing, we will sand her and paint her" I took his advice but didn't feel good about it, before the work started I asked for an est. for repairing the hull correctly before painting it. When I saw the est. I suddenly felt much better about sanding and painting. The est was for half the cost of the boat. I am not answering your question but I thought I would let you know there are many of us out there with less than perfect hulls. good luck, Jack
I had a bottom job done last year from a yard that had a solid reputation, I was so disappointed after the haulout to see as many as 100 small blisters on the hull of my 1986 Catalina, a few blisters were as big as a dime but most were smaller. Anyway, the yard manager took a look and said "thats nothing, we will sand her and paint her" I took his advice but didn't feel good about it, before the work started I asked for an est. for repairing the hull correctly before painting it. When I saw the est. I suddenly felt much better about sanding and painting. The est was for half the cost of the boat. I am not answering your question but I thought I would let you know there are many of us out there with less than perfect hulls. good luck, Jack
What and why?
What is a laminate profile test do...show blisters or irregulariries? From my understanding of a barcol hardness test, it is for surface hardness testing by making indentations. Will that tell what is under the surface? I just never heard of doing this on fiberglass boats. Also, im not familiar with 'hydraulic planeing',please give info on that. I have however seen hulls being planed, and that is only an act of desperation. Although they tell you ahead of time that all you have to do is a light sanding, the reality is that every boat i seen being planed deffinately needed some fiberglass added followed by lots of fairing. I do however disagree with a previous reply as to leaving them there. Until you grind through some of them you will not know if they are gelcoat blisters or inside the laminate. If after a few test grinds, you find that thay are all gelcoat blisters, i wouldnt worry about them too much, but i would still eventually repair them. If however they are in the laminate, it is usually cuased by uncured resin. These will eventually lead to delamination. There are lots of books, articles etc on blister repairs. West Systems epoxy has a pamphlet on blister repair. Since you boat is almost 20 years old, and the blisters are not that bad, its not going to disintegrate anytime soon, but eventually it will. Make a practice at each haulout, to dedicate X amount of days for blister repair. Eventually you will get them all.
What is a laminate profile test do...show blisters or irregulariries? From my understanding of a barcol hardness test, it is for surface hardness testing by making indentations. Will that tell what is under the surface? I just never heard of doing this on fiberglass boats. Also, im not familiar with 'hydraulic planeing',please give info on that. I have however seen hulls being planed, and that is only an act of desperation. Although they tell you ahead of time that all you have to do is a light sanding, the reality is that every boat i seen being planed deffinately needed some fiberglass added followed by lots of fairing. I do however disagree with a previous reply as to leaving them there. Until you grind through some of them you will not know if they are gelcoat blisters or inside the laminate. If after a few test grinds, you find that thay are all gelcoat blisters, i wouldnt worry about them too much, but i would still eventually repair them. If however they are in the laminate, it is usually cuased by uncured resin. These will eventually lead to delamination. There are lots of books, articles etc on blister repairs. West Systems epoxy has a pamphlet on blister repair. Since you boat is almost 20 years old, and the blisters are not that bad, its not going to disintegrate anytime soon, but eventually it will. Make a practice at each haulout, to dedicate X amount of days for blister repair. Eventually you will get them all.
Ah, blisters...
I personally feel that the "threat" posed by blisters is pretty minimal. Unless you have a serious case of the pox, i.e., literally hundreds of blisters all over the bottom, my advice is to drill and sand them out, fill them with epoxy or MarineTex, fair the hull and put on some bottom paint and then go sailing. You can do this in an afternoon. If, on the other hand, your bottom is covered with blisters, I would either get used to them or buy another boat.... I have never heard of a boat sinking as a result of hull failure due to blisters.
I personally feel that the "threat" posed by blisters is pretty minimal. Unless you have a serious case of the pox, i.e., literally hundreds of blisters all over the bottom, my advice is to drill and sand them out, fill them with epoxy or MarineTex, fair the hull and put on some bottom paint and then go sailing. You can do this in an afternoon. If, on the other hand, your bottom is covered with blisters, I would either get used to them or buy another boat.... I have never heard of a boat sinking as a result of hull failure due to blisters.
Blister Repair
Presumably you went to a lot of trouble withthe testing and all before buying the boat and presumably knocked something off the price? Just strip the bottom and open up all the blisters and let the hull 'dry out' (It probably would have been a good idea to do that in the fall at haul out so you'd be 3/4's thru by now) Anyway, you can fill the blister pock marks with epoxy and put several coats of Interlux 2000 over the hull and smooth out the orange peel roller texture and be done with it. Will it be perfect? Do you need a guarantee? Might it affect your resale value --then look again at that $9,000 'value'.
Presumably you went to a lot of trouble withthe testing and all before buying the boat and presumably knocked something off the price? Just strip the bottom and open up all the blisters and let the hull 'dry out' (It probably would have been a good idea to do that in the fall at haul out so you'd be 3/4's thru by now) Anyway, you can fill the blister pock marks with epoxy and put several coats of Interlux 2000 over the hull and smooth out the orange peel roller texture and be done with it. Will it be perfect? Do you need a guarantee? Might it affect your resale value --then look again at that $9,000 'value'.
With small blisters like yours...
With dime size blisters, the best thing i found to use was a dremmel tool with a cone shaped grinding bit. Let the stuff ooze out and wash thoroughly on the blister area at least once a day. Water seemd to help the goo leak out. When you decide you have had enough, let it dry for a few more days or untill no more brown yuck comes out. Then fill with epoxy and paint over with bottom paint.
With dime size blisters, the best thing i found to use was a dremmel tool with a cone shaped grinding bit. Let the stuff ooze out and wash thoroughly on the blister area at least once a day. Water seemd to help the goo leak out. When you decide you have had enough, let it dry for a few more days or untill no more brown yuck comes out. Then fill with epoxy and paint over with bottom paint.
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