Blisters above the waterline!?

[Zach Grammon]

So I recently purchased a C-22 '73 #2353 and have been working on it the past three weeks or so. Today, lacking something to do while waiting for epoxy to dry, I was scrubbed the fender marks off the hull. Suddenly, what did appear but two very faint blister-like objects.

(I darkened the color of the photo quite a bit so it was easier to see.)


This is just outside where the port plywood bulkhead meets the hull. There's a crack on the interior where the bulkhead meets the hull near one of the blisters. I'll get a picture of it tomorrow.

So...what now? Leave it? Repair it?

 

[Zach Grammon]

Hmmm...

I didn't mention it above, but the hull is slightly wavy at the blisters and crinkles a bit when you put some solid pressure on it.

Here's the crack I mentioned:


I tried to pull the bulkhead out but the lower bolts holding it to the dinette seat area were bent. I'll have to cut them out.

A story develops...something like slamming of the hull in big waves?

 

[Jacomo Sailor]

Looks like hard impact damage with a DIY repair (probably Bondo) thats starting to deteriorate.

 

[CloudDiver]

Yeah, that would be my guess too. It takes years, even decades, for water molecules to permeate the polyester gelcoat and begin to blister. I can't imagine a scenario where blisters that size could form that high above the waterline unless there were some kind of defect in manufacturing where moisture was trapped in the laminate from the get-go... which is still unlikely... So I think Jacomo's explanation is much more plausible, repaired impact damage.

Fixing it depends on what your plans are for the hull. Are you planning to paint the entire hull anyway? What is the condition of your gelcoat overall?

I hope you are more interested in sailing than doing a big resto job like mine (because I really wish I had been sailing this summer, not sweating in my shop!). If thats the case, I can walk you through how to repair those areas and fix the gelcoat without painting the whole hull and it won't cost a fortune in materials, but it will be a little time intensive. Also, if the gelcoat on the rest of the hull is in ok condition I can tell you how to make it look shiny and spanking new for practically zero dollars and some elbow grease!

Looks like hard impact damage with a DIY repair (probably Bondo) thats starting to deteriorate.

 

[Zach Grammon]

Thanks CloudDiver and Jocomo!

I'm knee deep in a bottom job right now that needed to happen due to the PO dragging anchor and running against some rocks...left some scratches. The boat was ridden hard and put away wet, so there are some essential things (rudder, keel/winch, some hardware) I've been working on that needed to get addressed. I'm not going for a perfect restoration and only plan on keeping the boat for the next 2-3 years before our family gets something a bit bigger. This is my learning boat.

I'm all ears if you have a strategy CloudDiver. I hadn't planned on painting above the waterline, but below the waterline it's currently getting the epoxy/interprotect/vc17 combo.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, so I'll probably start a "this is not a restoration" restoration thread to field more questions. Such as how to access the traveler bar bolts?

 

[CloudDiver]

To get to the traveler bar bolts you have to cut a rectangle of fiberglass away from the inside of the transom face rift in front of the nut. Then you buy small stainless louvered vents to cover the holes, they are only about $6 each. That is covered in my build thread also.

Since you are not painting above the water line, you'll want to grind/sand those blisters out and feather them back lightly. I'm sure what you will find under that 'blister' is just Bondo or another filler. You'll probably want to use a few layers of 6 oz fiberglass tape with polyester resin (you MUST use polyester resin in this case, NOT epoxy) to reinforce the area. You'll probably be able to get 4 or more (maybe even 6 to 8) layers of tape, just remember to keep it BELOW to level of the original gelcoat and sand the final layer with 80 grit to rough it up. It does not have to be perfect, the level and fairness will come from the gelcoat. Go to the Spectrum Color website, order a quart (pint if they have it) of the GELPASTE gelcoat that is color matched to your C-22 white. This stuff is thickened so it stays put when you put it on with a plastic spatula. You can get a pretty fair coating with a wide blade plastic putty knife and put in on a little proud. After it cures it is easy to stand starting with 120 to get the rough shape back, then 220 to smooth it closer, then 320 and it should be fair. Go to 400 wet and then 600 wet and then buff with rubbing compound. The entire hull can be wet sanded with 400 and then 600 and buffed at the same time, your gelcoat will look brand new. Any scratches, chips, gouges or nicks can be filled with the gel paste in the same fashion. The gel paste will also work to fill any interior cracks. If it is not the same color you can tint it.

Thanks CloudDiver and Jocomo!

I'm knee deep in a bottom job right now that needed to happen due to the PO dragging anchor and running against some rocks...left some scratches. The boat was ridden hard and put away wet, so there are some essential things (rudder, keel/winch, some hardware) I've been working on that needed to get addressed. I'm not going for a perfect restoration and only plan on keeping the boat for the next 2-3 years before our family gets something a bit bigger. This is my learning boat.

I'm all ears if you have a strategy CloudDiver. I hadn't planned on painting above the waterline, but below the waterline it's currently getting the epoxy/interprotect/vc17 combo.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, so I'll probably start a "this is not a restoration" restoration thread to field more questions. Such as how to access the traveler bar bolts?