Blister repairs...Now or later?

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Feb 23, 2009
3
Catalina 25 SR FK '84 Little Harbor, New Castle, NH
Just got my new (good old) boat shipped up from Lake Lanier to NH. Turns out it last got bottom paint in '91, and it's been in the lake pretty much ever since. Turns out there's also substantial blistering on the hull, mostly dime to quarter sized. I've been reading up on the proper way to repair them, according to the Bros. Gougeon Manual. It sounds like once they're all opened up, the hull is tented, dehumidifiers and heaters blasting away, I'm looking at a month or two of our short NE sailing season before the hull is dry enough to start filling and fairing, barrier coats, and bottom paint.
My question is thus: What are the pros and cons of just lightly scuffing up the bottom, without opening any blisters, slapping a coat or two of either hard or soft anti-fouling paint on, and enjoying the summer. There are plenty of other expensive projects to do already, like depth/speed transponders, a compass, a VHF coax up the mast, running rigging to replace, etc. If 19 years in the lake didn't sink it, how bad could another 4 months be? (Although it will be in salt water now) Then we would pull it in Sept., open it up, tent it, and have all fall and winter to let it dry and make a proper job of it. Is there any compelling reason to open her up now? What is the worst case?
What to do? -G.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Rarely in the history of blistered fiberglass boats has there ever been a documented report of a boat sinking due to 'blisters'. Predominantly, blisters are a failure of the cosmetic gel coat and matting layer (whose function is to provide a 'cosmetic cushion' for the gelcoat), rarely penetrating into the roving/structural layers.

For better description of blisters and their (proper) repair go to: www.yachtsurvey.com/blisters
Many boats have been 'destroyed' (made un-saleable) by improper DIY 'blister jobs'. For myself when looking at boats to buy, just about any boat that has had a DIY 'blister job' is a 'run-away-from' boat.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Good idea! Light sanding and one coat of paint. This will get you by until fall and then you can proceed with your coarse of action.

It really do not think the boat needs to be tented and heated. You can open up the blisters with a grinder (wear protective gear, there is an acid in the blisters). Rinse them well with water and then let them dry out. In the spring you can patch them, strip the paint, epoxy the bottom and you will be good to go.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I'd definitely go for getting it in the water this season and then seeing what you have in the fall. Look at it this way, if the salt water has any impact, you want to find out now before you do any work on the hull, rather than later (you repair a bunch then get a bunch more next year when it hits salt water for the first time). I would either get a survey or at least sound the hull to make sure the damage is just cosmetic. What kind of boat is it? Your profile just says its a "2 26.5"
 
Aug 8, 2006
340
Catalina 34 Naples FL
I had an Oday 30 that had blisters pretty bad when I bought it. I had them repaired by chipping out and repairing and 12 years later had them again with a vengance. I am told that fiberglass under barrier coating is like lots of little straws that once intrusion of water happens the straws suck up moisture. This causes the boat to get water logged and much heavier and forms blisters. If you do not repair these they eventually delaminate and the layers of fiberglass separate in the the hull and the water will form large pools (or blisters) between the layers.
All this happened to me. the only way to repair was to strip off the barrier coats and grind down the fiberglass and the blistters off. Like peeling an orange, then applied new fiberglass and then barrier coat, then gel coat then repaint. Do not ask how much including the 5 months drying time at the yard. (hint, just under 10 grand) So that is why if you plan to keep the boat that you should do it now, do the peel off job and
then do it right. Most yards now have a better system to do this than they used to.
As a side note.
I guess some boats blister a lot more than others and it all depends on the fiberglass type, prep work etc etc. But I have seen older Westsails with huls like tanks and others with blisters.
Remember just because you fix the blisters you see does not mean that new ones are not starting in the areas you do not fix. they are still subject to the same conditions so that is why you need to do the peel off the entire bottom part.
Anyhow, my 2 cents and I have been through it. Terry
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Me too

Sail this season, and worry bout the blisters later. Some boats, even if tarped and some type of heat on them, can takes a month or more to totally dry out. Enjoy the boat, and worry bout the dry out time when you can't sail anyway.
 
Jan 1, 2006
8,006
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
How much did you pay for your Good Old Boat? One of the great things about boats that have reached their asymptotic price is that there isn't that much at stake. Sail it! The season is already too short. You're going to put either money or sweat into it like crazy in the future. The short NH season can't compare with the years its been in the water. Yours will get A good drying every winter. Also the osmotic gradient in salt water is less than fresh - so you've got that going for you. And finally, don't you want to see if its the right boat for you before you wreck your back or your bank account (You won't see that money again) doing a bottom. I've seen excellently done bottom jobs with barrier this and barrier that, develop blisters again. Blisters happen. That's why I make it a point to not be there when the boat is hauled. Go sailing.
Warm winds and cold beer,
 
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