Bleeding air from fuel system

ToddL214

ToddL214

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May 11, 2014
34
Catalina 310 Lake Texoma
My engine is running again now so the panic's over. I'd rather do the fuel filter change the right way the next time so please let me know if you can help.

On my initial effort to address what I thought was water in my diesel I ended up introducing air into my fuel system to the point the engine stopped and I couldn't get it running again. I subseqently replaced both filter elements using more care, fingers crossed and considerable coaxing to get the engine started and running smoothly again. My conclusion is that the initial problem was due to the secondary filter needing a change out, (and that I need to learn the correct process for my next fuel filter system maintenance).

I have a Parker/Racor R20P installed and believe there is a priming pump or process to bleed air out of the system after the filter elements are changed. I'm suspicious the two white nylon screwed in pieces on the top of the unit are where I need to focus. One piece is flush with a slot for a coin to be inserted to turn it, the other is raised and designed to be what I'd call "handy", (designed for fingers not pliers or a wrench).

Can anyone confirm this and coach me or point me to instructions on the proper procedure?

Thanks in advance for any advice or assistance.

Todd L.
 
Don S/V ILLusion

Don S/V ILLusion

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Sep 25, 2008
7,096
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
The manual, which describes the procedure, is available as a PDF for download form their web site. Ther are YouTube videos you can find with a quick search too.
 
KZW

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
Given that it is a C-310 it should have a Universal M25XPB which was the standard Catalina fit. However, I understand a few were ordered with Yanmars.

The Racor manual for the 215R, which is in my boat, is attached. I believe the R20P has a similar arrangement of nylon screws on the top. You can crack the vent port (which is located next to the outlet line), and if your fuel tank is above 1/2 full, then the fuel will gravity feed to the Racor (which is located at the lowest point in the fuel line, if not, it should be).

When you change the Racor filter, you should fill the bowl with clean fuel and then screw it on. Then there will only be a small bit of air at the very top.

Or, you can leave it alone and crack open the bleed line fitting on the engine. Have a buddy turn the key past start to the glow plug setting and the electric fuel pump will turn on. The bleed line will bubble red fuel as the air escapes. When it goes steady, tell your buddy to let go the key (turn it off and remove it) and tighten the bleed nut. I suggest several paper towels under the nut to capture the mess. It should all be over in less than 30 seconds of electric pump operation. Some folks have rigged a remote switch for the fuel pump so they can do it alone. I find it is much more fun to have the Admiral help out and work the key. She just loves boat maintenance!

In the picture of the starboard side of the M25XPB, the bleed nut is immediately to the right (forward) of the air filter, just below the three lines that run to the injectors. It is a metric nut and is either a 10mm or 12mm, I just don't remember which (one of the good things about the onset of Alzheimer's is one gets to wake up next to a new woman every morning).
 

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KZW

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
paulj said:
KZW


What type of fuel pump do you have ?



paulj :troll:
Click to expand
Snarky answer: The electric fuel pump that was OEM with the engine.
Real answer: I don't know brand/make/model. In the picture it can be seen mounted on the rear starboard side of the engine, above the heat exchange manifold. I don't know what else to tell you.

In the manual, check pages 43 and 44.
 

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Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

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Feb 26, 2004
22,770
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
You shouldn't need to back that bleed screw off enough so that it leaks.

Some of this stuff may also be applicable to your engine & system. I'd use the electric pump before the manual one on the Racor housing - bad for your fingers, and sloooow. :)

Bleeding 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6377.0.html


Good luck.
 
KZW

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
Stu,

You are right, given that excess fuel is routed back through to the tank, just running the fuel pump is fine. Doing so will get the air out of the line. However, cracking the bleed to let it run solid is a way to visually confirm no air is in the line.

Bottom line, it is easy either way. Given the location of the Racor on my boat, running the electric fuel pump is the easiest method to bleed the line.
 
Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

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Feb 26, 2004
22,770
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
KZW said:
Stu,

You are right, given that excess fuel is routed back through to the tank, just running the fuel pump is fine. Doing so will get the air out of the line. However, cracking the bleed to let it run solid is a way to visually confirm no air is in the line.

Bottom line, it is easy either way. Given the location of the Racor on my boat, running the electric fuel pump is the easiest method to bleed the line.
Click to expand
Yes, you should do both: run pump & crack bleed screw.

Your engines are slightly different than ours, so read page 19 of the manual (RTFM, F stands for Funny!:)), here:

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals

Two PDF downloads.
 
rpwillia

rpwillia

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Sep 29, 2008
1,928
Catalina 310 #185 Quantico
Stu, I gotta call you out

Stu Jackson said:
... Your engines are slightly different than ours, so read page 19 of the manual (RTFM, F stands for Funny!:)), here:..
Click to expand
Next thing I know you will tell us RCH stand for Really Cute Hairdo when we all know it indicates a close tolerance. :naughty:
 
JK_Boston_Catalina310

JK_Boston_Catalina310

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Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
njlarry said:
I thought the m-25xpb was self bleeding.
Click to expand
It is. Cracking the bleeder valve is belt and suspenders approach.

The one thing to note is that you still need to use the manual pump for the Racor. If you try to fill and bleed the Racor with the electric fuel lift pump, you will blow your glow plugs. This is because of the way the pump is wired through the pre-heat solenoid. You can fix this in two ways. One, run a second positive wire to the pump with a switch. Use the switch to run the pump when you want to prime. Or two, Install a second fuel lift pump.

I am going with option 2 and installing a second fuel lift pump as part of a fuel polishing system. Just another project on the list.
 
JK_Boston_Catalina310

JK_Boston_Catalina310

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Nov 18, 2010
2,441
Catalina 310 Hingham, MA
By the way, the universal operations manual and technical manual are on my blog on "The Boat" page. Just putting that out there in case any of the new owners don't have these.

There are discussions on bleeding the fuel system in these.
 
ToddL214

ToddL214

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May 11, 2014
34
Catalina 310 Lake Texoma
Taking several Poster's suggestion to "get specific" on my equipment I returned to the engine manual for a closer review. I'm embarrased to say I found the exact answer I needed on page 19. I probably missed what I was looking for initially because the "pictures" of the fuel filter and water separator reside on page 20.

My M-25XPB engine is self priming. My error appears to have been not using the self priming feature enough before starting the engine. The instructions are to simply turn the key switch/preheat button enough short 5-10 second bursts to pump sufficient fuel and run the air out of the fuel system via the fuel return

Leason learned; back to sailing. Thanks for all the responses and help.

Todd L.
 
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