I really need help...PLEASE. I performed a routine primary fuel filter change for the start of the season, like I've done on all of my boats with success, until yesterday. My Volvo MD22 is giving me fits. I can not successfully expel the air from the lines. I'm not sure, first of all. where all of the bleeder ports are on the Volvo. I purchased the boat without a Volvo service manual, and have no clue as to there where abouts. Nothing is obvious. I had so much air pressure in the lines I had fuel coming out of the vent (the tank is full). Any website, archive or direction would be helpful. Plan on calling a mechanic but thought I would give my fellow boat owners a try first. Thanks in advance. Mike
Bleeding a fuel line
- Thread starter Mike Hollingsworth
- Start date
- Status
Bleeding...
If all else fails in trying to bleed your diesel, it sometimes pays to hire a pro diesel mechanic to show you how to do it. When I bought my first inboard diesel, I hired a local diesel doctor to spend an hour on my boat showing how to change filters, belts, impellers, and bleed the system. He spent about an hour and half with me and it cost around $100. It was well worth the effort in terms of what I learned how to do (the right way)for myself -- and the confidence it gave me.
If all else fails in trying to bleed your diesel, it sometimes pays to hire a pro diesel mechanic to show you how to do it. When I bought my first inboard diesel, I hired a local diesel doctor to spend an hour on my boat showing how to change filters, belts, impellers, and bleed the system. He spent about an hour and half with me and it cost around $100. It was well worth the effort in terms of what I learned how to do (the right way)for myself -- and the confidence it gave me.
Just another suggestion
I am a firm believer in an electric fuel pump. Bleeding the system is just so much cleaner and simpler with one. With an electric fuel pump, mounted close to the tank, you can turn it on, and systematically go through the system, bleeding it point by point. Not to mention other benefits such as fuel transfer, and emergency use should the manual pump fail.
I am a firm believer in an electric fuel pump. Bleeding the system is just so much cleaner and simpler with one. With an electric fuel pump, mounted close to the tank, you can turn it on, and systematically go through the system, bleeding it point by point. Not to mention other benefits such as fuel transfer, and emergency use should the manual pump fail.
Confused
After reading your post again more carefully I am confused. Not sure I understand the statement," so much air pressure in the lines ". You have a vented tank, and a manual fuel pump that can only suck fuel from the engine back. I don't see any way you could manage to get pressure in the fuel lines. Where is this pressure coming from. Something just isn't making sense here. I am beginning to think you have another problem lurking in the shadows.
After reading your post again more carefully I am confused. Not sure I understand the statement," so much air pressure in the lines ". You have a vented tank, and a manual fuel pump that can only suck fuel from the engine back. I don't see any way you could manage to get pressure in the fuel lines. Where is this pressure coming from. Something just isn't making sense here. I am beginning to think you have another problem lurking in the shadows.
Much Thanks
Thanks to everyone for their reply. I did hire a mechanic to fix (bleed) the system. He's doing it tommorow, so I don't have an answer to the orginal problem. The pressure I was refering to was after I started the engine, and after just filling the fuel tank, I am assuming air in the lines was pushing the fuel out of the tank (coming from the return line??) I do not know enogh about diesels to comment. The only thing I did that day was to change the primary filter. Prior to that the engine ran like a top (only has 500 hours on it). I also went over to the other lister and found an old thread on bleeding the fuel lines.Again thanks for the replys. Mike
Thanks to everyone for their reply. I did hire a mechanic to fix (bleed) the system. He's doing it tommorow, so I don't have an answer to the orginal problem. The pressure I was refering to was after I started the engine, and after just filling the fuel tank, I am assuming air in the lines was pushing the fuel out of the tank (coming from the return line??) I do not know enogh about diesels to comment. The only thing I did that day was to change the primary filter. Prior to that the engine ran like a top (only has 500 hours on it). I also went over to the other lister and found an old thread on bleeding the fuel lines.Again thanks for the replys. Mike
Fuel bleeding.
Mike, I have a MD22L fitted to my Ocean 40. The fuel line comes from the fuel tank situated under the aft bunk under the floor in to the engine compartment. There is a water trap and filter on the bulkhead before the fuel line goes to the little mechanical priming pump and another fuel filter (spin on type) and thence in to the main high pressure fuel pump. From the fuel pump, fuel, under high pressure is directed to the engine fuel injectors for combustion. There is a return line from the HP fuel pump directly back to the fuel tank. The fuel tank itself has a filling line and vent. They always make the vent far to small for filling. Fuel tank vents should be 1.5 times bigger than the filling line, but boat builders rarely do this. An small 12 volt pump fitted into the delivery line from the fuel tank is an excellent idea for priming. Ensure the impellor is made from nitril rubber specifically for fuel. It only requires a couple of simple connections and a couple of valves to use it for priming and in the case of a failure of the mechanical pump. Other than that you will have to bleed the sytem using the small mehcnaical pump situated on top of an to the front of the engine. It has a small lifting device which allows the internal diaphragm to be operated and pump fuel through the system. THe biggest problem is the mechanical hand pump is on the suction side of the filters and can cause air to be ingressed instead of fuel. I have used a small coke type bottle and of fuel and funnel to fill up the filter bowl and filter before pumping. Same with the spin on filter fill it up with fuel breofre refitting it. There a couple of bleed points on the HP fuel which can be "cracked" open and as you pump the hand pump fuel will be seen to egress. Pump until no more air bubles are present. Once no more air is pressent tighten the bleed screws and the engine should start. If not crack an injector pipe and turn the engine over by the starter motor. Be careful as fuel at high pressure can spary from the connection. Once clear of air then engine should start. As above fitting a small 12 volt pump very close to the fuel tank delivery line can take all of the pain out of priming the system. Let us know how you get on. Graham.
Mike, I have a MD22L fitted to my Ocean 40. The fuel line comes from the fuel tank situated under the aft bunk under the floor in to the engine compartment. There is a water trap and filter on the bulkhead before the fuel line goes to the little mechanical priming pump and another fuel filter (spin on type) and thence in to the main high pressure fuel pump. From the fuel pump, fuel, under high pressure is directed to the engine fuel injectors for combustion. There is a return line from the HP fuel pump directly back to the fuel tank. The fuel tank itself has a filling line and vent. They always make the vent far to small for filling. Fuel tank vents should be 1.5 times bigger than the filling line, but boat builders rarely do this. An small 12 volt pump fitted into the delivery line from the fuel tank is an excellent idea for priming. Ensure the impellor is made from nitril rubber specifically for fuel. It only requires a couple of simple connections and a couple of valves to use it for priming and in the case of a failure of the mechanical pump. Other than that you will have to bleed the sytem using the small mehcnaical pump situated on top of an to the front of the engine. It has a small lifting device which allows the internal diaphragm to be operated and pump fuel through the system. THe biggest problem is the mechanical hand pump is on the suction side of the filters and can cause air to be ingressed instead of fuel. I have used a small coke type bottle and of fuel and funnel to fill up the filter bowl and filter before pumping. Same with the spin on filter fill it up with fuel breofre refitting it. There a couple of bleed points on the HP fuel which can be "cracked" open and as you pump the hand pump fuel will be seen to egress. Pump until no more air bubles are present. Once no more air is pressent tighten the bleed screws and the engine should start. If not crack an injector pipe and turn the engine over by the starter motor. Be careful as fuel at high pressure can spary from the connection. Once clear of air then engine should start. As above fitting a small 12 volt pump very close to the fuel tank delivery line can take all of the pain out of priming the system. Let us know how you get on. Graham.
Fuel bleed
Graham; Thanks for the lengthy and very helpful response. I ended up hiring a diesel mechanic and parking myself over his shoulder while he repaired the system. The problem, apparently, was a clogged primary port, not allowing fuel to get to the engine and all of the downstream bleed points you were explaining. We actually ended up replacing the Bavaria installed primary with a Racor system which has a clear sediment bowl and a larger filter cartridge. We also installed a ball valve just prior to the primary for easy and emergency shutoff. Once that was replaced the system was comparatively easy to bleed. I say that because if we were underway and in heavy seas, bleeding this system will be a major challenge at best. I'm also considering installing the duel canisters that Racor offers to switch primaries on the fly. They're not cheap, however, at around 10 boat bucks. Again, I appreciate the help. If you're on the west coast, hope to see you at the rendevous. Mike
Graham; Thanks for the lengthy and very helpful response. I ended up hiring a diesel mechanic and parking myself over his shoulder while he repaired the system. The problem, apparently, was a clogged primary port, not allowing fuel to get to the engine and all of the downstream bleed points you were explaining. We actually ended up replacing the Bavaria installed primary with a Racor system which has a clear sediment bowl and a larger filter cartridge. We also installed a ball valve just prior to the primary for easy and emergency shutoff. Once that was replaced the system was comparatively easy to bleed. I say that because if we were underway and in heavy seas, bleeding this system will be a major challenge at best. I'm also considering installing the duel canisters that Racor offers to switch primaries on the fly. They're not cheap, however, at around 10 boat bucks. Again, I appreciate the help. If you're on the west coast, hope to see you at the rendevous. Mike
- Status