Binnacle rework.

[Ed Schenck]

My boat's time in the south and saltwater really took its toll. Particularly the stainless including the helm guard and the wheel. The paint on the pedestal is very bad. The wheel use to slide right off, now I can't get it off.

I was going to bring the entire pedestal home until I started thinking about disconnecting the rudder wire and the gear and throttle cables. So I just removed the top and the helm guard. The pedestal post should be easy enough to paint once I get the wheel and autohelm off.

So what would you recommend to get a nice finish on that cast aluminum? I am thinking of having the steel binnacle base chromed. But I don't think the aluminum can be chromed.

 

[Terry411]

They can even chrome plastic so chrome on aluminium is easy. You can even buy a kit to do small parts yourself.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Interesting. And the chroming can be done so that the holes remain the same size? The gear and throttle rods and the helm guard have to fit obviously.

So I could chrome everything in the picture and then paint the post. If I can get all the corrosion off of the stainless it should look really good.

 

[Terry411]

Chrome is a few thousands thick so it will reduce id size you can get oversize taps for this. Or you can also powder coat if you wanted.

 

[Terry411]

They may be also able to "mask" the areas you don't want chromed. I'm not in the industry but I make replacement parts for diecast machines and see the parts they do. If you do the prep work buff polish it shouldn't be to expensive the prep is the work the dip is easy.

 

[MetricMountie]

Ed, a friend had the entire binnacle done in a whit epowder coat, that was three years ago and it still looks great in a very salt environment.

 

[guidera48]

Painting the binacle

When I reworked my station, I did not want to remove the pedestal as the floor, backing plate and sheeves were in good condition. instead, i cleaned all the chips and dings with sandpaper, primed whith high build primer, sanded and cleaned with lacquer thinner. I applied two coats of white appliance epoxy. It is available at most big box stores for about 8 box per spray can. I had used it in several projects and it is a lot thicker and harder than plain enamel or automotive lacquer. Two good coats did an excellent job. I use a plastic trigger atachement to spray from a spray can as my finger lock up after a couple of minutes spraying.
A chrome base would look great but chrome and sea water is not a good combination. I would not use anything less than 316L stainless . I purchased several tubes of stainless for boat projects without inquiring as to its composition. Turns out it was 304 and a year later they are covered with rust spots compared to my 30 year old original stainless. Expensive lesson.

 

[rardiH36]

When I reworked my station, I did not want to remove the pedestal as the floor, backing plate and sheeves were in good condition. instead, i cleaned all the chips and dings with sandpaper, primed whith high build primer, sanded and cleaned with lacquer thinner. I applied two coats of white appliance epoxy. It is available at most big box stores for about 8 box per spray can. I had used it in several projects and it is a lot thicker and harder than plain enamel or automotive lacquer. Two good coats did an excellent job. I use a plastic trigger atachement to spray from a spray can as my finger lock up after a couple of minutes spraying.
A chrome base would look great but chrome and sea water is not a good combination. I would not use anything less than 316L stainless . I purchased several tubes of stainless for boat projects without inquiring as to its composition. Turns out it was 304 and a year later they are covered with rust spots compared to my 30 year old original stainless. Expensive lesson.

Hi Ed:

I second the above suggestion to paint it. Will make it look much like new.

When I purchased my boat, the pedestal head, tube and base had quite a few scratches though the original factory finish down to the Aluminum. And the piece with the "wings" for the pedestal guard (similar to your picture) was very chipped and peeling. When I painted my cabin top with Perfection, I just used some of the left-over to fill the scratches carefully with a fine point artist's brush. This was intended to just to tide me over until I felt like doing it right. The pedestal guard piece was sanded well and also painted (albeit with a bigger brush!). Five years on, I never notice the cosmetic repair. And I have no plans now for "doing it right" A major part of the reason that paint -- such as the appliance white suggestion - works for this is that the pedestal is protected from UV by the sunbrella cover 98% of the time. Will last years. I have used epoxy type appliance spray paint for several items with no protection from the sun. Holds up very well. Attached is a pic of my pedestal soon after I did as described above.

 

[RonRelyea]

Edson has a web site with re-finishing suggestions

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/eb95345.php

 

[rardiH36]

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/eb95345.php

Thanks for highlighting this Edson refinishing link. I've bookmarked for general aluminum refinishing reference.

Regarding their Improved Repair System or Total Re-Coat section ... that will be expensive. The cost for the viny-lux prime wash + epoxy prime coat + Perfection + all the various thinners and solvents (each costing 50% or so of the price of the product that is being thinned!) will be several hundred $'s. I think I like the alternative of a spray cans of good aluminum etching primer followed by epoxy appliance white! And then keeping the pedestal covered when not actually sailing.

I have been for a long time fan of Rustoleum's Hammered paint line. They offer it also in spray cans of Metallic White.

 

[Steve Dion]

Ed:

Have you considered powder coating. Many times you can get this done very inexpensively if the Powder Coater is running the same color as you are using. I had this done on a rear bumper on a pickup truck and it was still black and shinny after many years.

If you are not going to remove the pedestal, the next best thing would be the epoxy paint as mentioned above.

 

[Dalliance]

I sanded and spray painted the yellowed plastic top part on mine about fours ago with 3 coats of Rustoleum semi-gloss white. It was a good match to the post color and, so far anyway, it has held up well.

 

[Ed Schenck]

A painting we will go, a painting we will go, hi ho . . . . .
Thanks guys for all the great input.

 

[Nelsonhow]

Rustolium get my vote

I sanded mine bout 3 years ago and then used a white primer and semi gloss rustolium. (Next time I may use gloss). Came out great and is lasting well. (I do have a whell cover made from an old sail that covers the wheel, compas, folded table and column when not in usewhich protects from the sun). Appliance epoxy I suspect would work equally as well.

Before you spray remove everything from the column and cover every thing near by with lots of drop cloths, newspaper and tape as the spray will get everywhere and since you'll be spraying is all directions around the post.

A 1/2 day project with high impact results since eyeryone sees the post in the center of the cocpkit.

Good luck.:dance: